U.  S.  Dl  I'AKIWIM    (  >l    AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  •  >F    \\!M\l    INDUSTRY       BUU.I  riN   I 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE 


DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES. 


BY 


C.  F.  DOANE,  M.  S., 
Assistant  Dairyman %  Dairy  Division, 

AND 

H.  W.   LAWSON,   M.  S.,  M.  D., 

Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Department  of  Agriculture. 


\K  revision  of  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry  Bulletin  105.] 


U.S.  DEPOSr 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE. 
191L 


' 


U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  I  IF  AGRICULTURE, 

.  M\l.  INDUSTRY.     !'.!•!  i  i 
■    MELVIN, 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE: 


DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES. 


BY 


C.  F.  DOANE,  M.  S., 
Assistant  Dairyman,  Dairy  Division, 

AND 
H.  W.   LAWSON,   M.  S.,  M.  D., 

Office  of  Experi)>ient  Stations,  Department  of  Agriculture. 


[A  revision  of  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry  Bulletin   105.] 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE. 

191L 


THE  BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY. 


Chief:  A.  D.  Melvin. 
Assistant  Chief:  A.  M.  Farrington. 
Chief  Clerk:  Charles  C.  Carroll. 

Animal  Husbandry  Division:  George  M.  Rommel,  chief. 
Biochemic  Division:  M.  Dorset,  chief. 
Dairy  Division:  B.  H.  Rawl,  chief. 

Inspection  Division:  Rice  P.  Steddom,  chief;  R.  A.  Ramsay,  Morris  Wooden, 
and  Albert  E.  Behnke,  associate  chiefs. 

Pathological  Division:  John  R.  Mohler,  chief. 
Quarantine  Division:  Richard  W.  Hickman,  chief. 
Zoological  Division:  B.  H.  Ransom,  chief. 
Experiment  Station:  E.  C.  Schroeder,  superintendent. 
Editor:  James  M.  Pickens. 

DAIRY  DIVISION. 

B.  H.  Rawl,  Chief. 

Helmer  Rabild,  in  charge  of  Dairy  Farming  Investigations. 
S.  C.  Thompson,  in  charge  of  Dairy  Manufacturing  Investigations. 
L.  A.  Rogers,  in  charge  of  Research  Laboratories. 
George  M.  Whitaker,  in  charge  of  Market  Milk  Investigations. 
Robert  McAdam,  in  charge  of  Renovated  Butter  Inspection. 
2 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

Bureau  of  Animal  Industry, 
Washington,  D.  C,  August  31,  1911. 

Sir:  In  1908  there  was  published  as  Bulletin  105  of  this  bureau  a 
paper  entitled  "Varieties  of  Cheese:  Descriptions  and  Analyses,"  by 
Mr.  C.  F.  Doane,  of  the  dairy  division  of  this  bureau,  and  Dr.  II.  W. 
Lawson,  of  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations  of  this  department. 
A-  the  supply  of  that  bulletin  is  exhausted,  and  as  it  has  been  found 
desirable  to  make  a  few  additions  and  some  slight  revisions,  I  have 
the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  the  copy  for  a  revised  edition  and  to 
recommend  that  it  be  issued  as  a  new  bulletin.  A  few  new  varieties 
have  been  added  and  certain  descriptions  in  the  first  edition  have 
been  revised  to  conform  to  present  usage. 

As  was  stated  in  transmitting  the  original  manuscript,  the  work  is 
a  compilation  of  descriptions  and  analyses  of  all  the  varieties  of  do- 
mestic and  foreign  cheese  about  which  it  has  been  possible  to  obtain 
such  information  in  the  literature  bearing  upon  the  subject.  In  a 
number  of  cases  only  meager  details  could  be  secured,  and  owing  to 
the  size  of  the  work  the  descriptions  are  necessarily  of  a  very  con- 
densed nature. 

Respectfully,  A.  D.  Melvin, 

Chief  of  Bureau. 
Hon.  James  Wilson, 

Secretary  of  Agriculture. 

■  \ 


CONTENTS 


Page. 

Introduction 5 

Descriptions  of  varieties  of  cheese 7 

Analyses  of  cheese 62 

Sources  of  analytical  data 69 

Index 75 

4 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE:  DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSI  S. 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  amount  of  cheese  imported  into  the  United  States  is  incr< 
inur  rapidly.  During  the  six  years  from  1000  to  190.V  inclusive,  the 
value  of  the  imports  increased  from  $1,946,033  to  $3,875,161.  Italy 
and  Switzerland  supplied  the  bulk  of  this  cheese,  most  of  the  re- 
mainder coming  from  France  and  Holland.  The  best  known  of  the 
varieties  of  cheese  imported  were  the  Parmesan  and  Gorgonzola 
from  Italy,  the  Emmental  from  Switzerland,  the  Roquefort,  Camem- 
bert  and  Brie  from  France,  and  the  Edam  from  Holland.  The 
growing  demand  for  cheese  is  not,  however,  confined  to  these  well- 
known  varieties,  much  interest  being  manifested  in  many  kinds  as 
yet  of  very  little  commercial  importance  but  highly  esteemed  in  the 
localities  where  produced. 

Attempts  have  long  been  made  in  this  country  to  imitate  some  of 
the  European  varieties,  and  in  some  instances  the  results  have  been 
decidedly  successful.  The  manufacture  of  Swiss,  or  Emmental.  and 
of  Limburg  types  has  become  well  established.  The  investigations 
conducted  at  the  Storrs  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  in  Con- 
necticut have  shown  that  cheese  of  the  Camembert  type,  equal  in 
every  way  to  the  imported  article,  may  be  produced  in  the  United 
States.  This  department  is  cooperating  in  investigations  of  this 
kind,  and  recently  results  have  been  obtained  which  make  it  prac- 
tically certain  that  a  cheese  of  the  nature  of  Roquefort  or  Stilton 
can  likewise  be  produced  in  this  country. 

Information  concerning  the  manufacture  and  composition  of  the 
numerous  varieties  of  cheese  is  not  very  accessible  to  English  readers 
and  the  apparent  need  of  some  work  of  reference,  in  connection  at 
least  with  the  importation  and  home  production  of  cheese,  has  there- 
fore led  to  the  preparation  of  the  descriptive  notes  and  the  compila- 
tion of  the  analytical  data  contained  in  this  bulletin. 

The  descriptions  are  for  the  most  part  based  upon  data  contained 
in  treatises  on  dairying  and  in  articles  in  foreign  periodicals.  While 
in  many  instances  they  are  very  incomplete  and  possibly  at  times 
inaccurate,  they  nevertheless  contain  in  condensed  form  practically 

5 


6  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

all  the  important  information  that  it  has  been  possible  to  secure  in 
an  extended  search  through  the  literature  relating  in  any  way  to 
the  subject.  Owing  to  the  large  number  of  publications  consulted, 
it  has  seemed  impracticable  to  give  references  to  the  descriptive 
matter. 

The  analyses  have  been  compiled  in  most  instances  from  the  origi- 
nal publications.  In  all  cases,  however,  the  sources  of  the  data  have 
been  given  in  the  list  of  references  which  follows  the  table  of  an- 
alyses. No  effort  has  been  made  to  collect  the  numerous  analyses  of 
filled  cheese,  and  in  the  case  of  American  Cheddar  cheese  only  a  part 
of  the  available  data  has  been  included  in  the  compilation. 


DESCRIPTIONS    OF   VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 
ABERTAM. 

This  is  a  bard  rennet  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  the  region  of  Carlsbad. 
Bohemia. 

ALEMTEJO. 

This  name  is  applied  to  rather  soft  cheeses  made  In  the  Province  of  Alemtejo, 
Portugal.    They  arc  cylindrical  in  Bhape  and  are  made  In  three  sizes,  averaging 

in  weight  about  2  ounces.  1  pound,  and  4  pounds,  respectively.  They  are  made 
for  the  most  part  from  the  milk  of  sheep,  though  goat's  milk  is  often  added, 
especially  for  the  smaller  sizes.  The  milk  is  warmed  and  curdled  usually  with 
an  extract  prepared  from  the  flowers  of  a  kind  of  thistle.  The  cheeses  are 
ripened  for  several  weeks. 

ALPIN. 

This  is  a  kind  of  Mont  d'Or  cheese  made  in  the  Alpine  regions  of  France.  It 
is  also  known  as  Clerimbert.  The  milk  is  coagulated  with  rennet  at  80°  F.  in 
2  hours.  The  curd  is  dipped  into  molds  3  to  4  inches  in  diameter  and  2\  inches 
in  height.  The  cheese  is  allowed  to  drain  and  is  turned  several  times  during 
one  day,  after  which  it  is  salted  and  ripened  for  8  to  15  days. 

ALTENBURG. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Germany,  where  it  is  known  as  Alten- 
burger  Ziegenkiise.  A  cheese  is  8  inches  in  diameter,  1  to  2  inches  in  thickness, 
and  weighs  about  2  pounds. 

AMBERT. 

This  cheese,  known  as  Fourme  d'Ambert,  is  a  cylindrical-shaped  imitation 
Roquefort  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  is  said  to  differ  from  other  forms 
of  blue  or  imitation  Roquefort  cheese  made  in  the  southeastern  part  of  France 
in  that  the  salt  is  mixed  with  the  curd  rather  than  rubbed  on  the  surface  of  the 
cheese. 

ANCIEN  IMPERIAL. 

The  curd  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  for  this  cheese  as  for  Neufchatel. 
The  cheese  is  about  2  inches  square  and  one-half  inch  thick.  It  is  also  known 
as  Tetit  Carre  and  when  ripened  as  Carre  Affine.  The  cheese  is  sold  and  con- 
sumed both  while  fresh  and  after  ripening.  The  ripening  process  is  not  essen- 
tially different  from  that  of  Neufchatel. 

APPENZELL. 

This  cheese,  which  is  very  similar  to  Emmental,  is  made  in  the  Canton  of 
Appenzell,  Switzerland,  and  also  in  Bavaria  and  Baden.  It  is  usually  made  of 
skim  milk,  but  sometimes  of  whole  milk. 

7 


8  VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE. 

BACKSTEIN. 

Backstein,  meaning  brick,  is  so  called  from  its  shape,  but  it  is  not  identical 
with  the  Brick  cheese  made  in  the  United  States.  The  process  of  manufacture 
is  similar  to  that  of  Limburg. 

BANBURY. 

This  was  a  soft,  rich  cheese,  very  popular  in  England  in  the  early  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century.     It  was  a  cylindrical  cheese  about  1  inch  thick. 

BARBEREY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving  its  name 
from  the  village  of  Barberey,  near  Troyes,  France.  It  is  also  commonly 
known  as  Fromage  de  Troyes.  The  milk  while  still  fresh  and  warm  is  coagu- 
lated with  rennet,  the  time  allowed  being  usually  about  4  hours.  The  uncut 
curd  is  put  into  a  wooden  mold  having  a  perforated  bottom.  After  draining 
for  3  hours  the  cheese  is  turned  into  an  earthenware  mold,  the  wooden  one 
being  removed  after  24  hours.  The  cheeses  are  salted,  dried  in  a  well-venti- 
lated room,  and  ripened  for  about  3  weeks,  usually  in  a  subterranean  curing 
room.  In  summer  the  cheese  is  often  sold  without  ripening.  A  cheese  is 
5  to  6  inches  in  diameter  and  li  inches  in  thickness. 

BATTLEMAT. 

This  is  an  Emmental  cheese  made  in  the  Canton  of  Tessin,  Switzerland,  in 
the  western  part  of  Austria,  and  in  the  northern  part  of  Italy.  It  is  recom- 
mended for  localities  where  a  great  quantity  of  milk  can  not  be  obtained. 
The  cheese  is  circular  in  form,  about  16  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  high, 
and  weighs  from  40  to  80  pounds.  It  is  cooked  at  a  slightly  lower  temperature 
than  the  Emmental  and  is  a  little  softer  when  ripened.  It  ripens  more  rapidly 
than  the  Emmental,  being  ready  for  market  in  about  4  months. 

BAUDEN. 

Baudenkiise  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  the  herders'  huts  in  the  mountains 
between  Bohemia  and  Silesia  in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  Harzkiise. 
It  is  made  up  in  two  forms,  one  conical  with  a  diameter  and  a  height  of  Si- 
inches,  and  the  other  cylindrical,  with  a  diameter  of  5  inches  and  a  height  of 
21  inches.     It  is  also  known  locally  as  Koppenkase. 

BELGIAN  COOKED. 

The  milk  which  has  been  allowed  to  curdle  spontaneously  is  skimmed  and 
the  curd  heated  to  135°  to  140°  F.  and  then  placed  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to 
drain.  When  dry  it  is  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand  and  is  allowed  to  undergo 
fermentation,  which  takes  ordinarily  from  10  to  14  days  in  winter  and  6  to  8 
days  in  summer.  When  the  fermentation  is  complete,  cream  and  salt  are 
added  and  the  mixture  is  heated  gently  and  stirred  until  homogeneous,  when 
it  is  put  into  molds  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  8  days  longer.  A  cheese  ordinarily 
weighs  about  3£  pounds.     It  is  not  essentially  different  from  other  forms  of 

cooked  cheese. 

BELLELAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  milk  and  sometimes  called 
Tete  de  Moine,  and  Monk's  Head.  This  cheese  originated  with  the  monks  of 
the  Canton  of  Bern,  Switzerland,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  is  made  ex- 
clusively in  that  locality  at  the  present  time. 


vum.i:  (.i 

The  sweet  milk  is  set  :it  about  90    r   with  rafflclenl  rennel  to  coagulate  It  In 
80  minutes,    The  curd  la  cat  comparatively  fine  and  la  atlrred  while 
d  siowiy   to  :i   temperature  of   110  .     El    li  cooked   mud 
Llmburg  and  not  so  Srm  as  Bmmental 

When  cooked  the  curd  li  dipped  Into  wooden  hoops  lined  with  cloth.    The 

i    in    rotation    for   a    few    minutes  at    a    tin 

for  a  number  of  cheeses.    Alter  pressing,  the  cheeses  are  wrapped  In 

COUple   of   weeks,   or   until    they    are    linn    enough    to   require    Q0   support. 

They  are  cured  in  a  moist  cellar  at  a  comparatively  low  temperature, 

not    desired    to   have   eyes   develop.     The  cheese  when    read\ 

diameter  of  7   inches  and   weighs  from  !»   to    IT,   pounds.      It    ripens   in   abOUl    12 

months  and  will  keep  t'<>v  :\  or    1   years.      It   has  a   soft,  buttery  consistency  and 

can  he  spread  on  bread  for  eating. 

BERGQUARA. 

This  is  a  Swedish  cheese  resembling  Gouda.  It  was  known  in  Sweden  in  the 
eighteenth  century. 

BLEU. 

The  names  Pate  Bleu  and  Fromage  Bleu  are  applied  to  several  kinds  of  hard 
rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Imitation  of  Roquefort  cheese  in  the 
southeastern  part  of  France.  Owing:  to  the  mottled,  marbled,  or  veined  appear- 
ance they  are  also  designated  Fromage  Fersille.  Among  these  are  Gex,  Sas- 
Benage,  and  Septmoncel.  This  name  is  also  applied  locally  to  several  more  or 
distinct  kinds  made  In  the  regions  of  the  Auvergne  and  Auhrac  Mountains 
and  designated  Bleu  d'Auvergne,  Cantal,  Guiole  or  Laguiole,  and  St.  Flour, 
other  cheeses  of  this  order  mentioned  as  made  in  France  are  Queyras,  (/ham- 
poleon,  Sarraz.  and  Journiac. 

BOUDANNE. 

This  is  a  French  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  milk,  either  whole  or 
skimmed,  is  heated  to  about  85°  F.,  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to  secure  coagula- 
tion in  1  hour,  and  the  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  peas,  stirred,  and  heated  to 
100°  or  above.  After  standing  for  10  to  15  minutes  the  curd  is  pressed  by  hand 
and  put  into  molds  8  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  in  height.  The  cheeses 
are  drained,  turned  frequently,  salted,  and  ripened  for  2  to  3  months. 

BOX   (FIRM). 

This  cheese,  known  in  different  localities  where  made  as  Hohenburg,  Mondsee, 
and  Weihenstephan,  is  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  and  is  a  rather  firm  rennet 
cheese.  The  flavor  is  said  to  be  mild,  but  piquant.  The  milk  is  heated  to  90° 
to  93°  F.  in  a  kettle,  is  colored  with  saffron,  and  set  with  sufficient  rennet  to 
curdle  it  in  20  to  25  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  up  as  line  as  peas  and  the  con- 
tents of  the  kettle  are  heated  very  slowly  to  a  temperature  of  105  .  being  stirred 
meanwhile.  The  fire  is  then  removed  and  the  curd  allowed  to  settle  for  5  min- 
utes, when  the  whey  is  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  then  dipped  into  a  cloth  and  from 
this  is  scooped  into  boops.  Light  pressure  is  applied  and  in  15  minutes  the 
cheese  is  turned,  and  the  turning  is  repeated  frequently  for  several  hours.  The 
cheese  is  kept  in  a  well-ventilated  room  at  80°  for  3  to  5  days,  after  which  it  is 
taken  to  the  cellar.  It  is  salted  by  rubbing  or  sprinkling  salt  on  the  surface. 
Ripening  requires  from  2  to  3  months.  The  cheese  weighs  from  1  to  4  pounds, 
and  is  undoubtedly  similar  to  the  Brick  cheese  of  the  United  States. 


10  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

BOX   (SOFT). 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  partially  skimmed  cow's  milk  and  known 
locally  as  Schachteikase.  It  is  a  rather  unimportant  variety  produced  in  Wiirt- 
temberg  in  a  small  locality  called  Hohenheim,  a  name  which  the  cheese  often 
takes. 

In  making  this  cheese  the  skimmed  evening's  milk  is  mixed  with  the  whole 
morning's  milk,  or  a  part  of  the  milk  is  skimmed  with  a  centrifuge  and  is  mixed 
with  an  equal  volume  of  whole  milk.  The  cheese  is  made  in  a  copper  kettle. 
The  milk  is  warmed  to  110°  F.,  colored  with  saffron,  and  rennet  added.  It  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  one  to  one  and  one-half  hours  before  cutting.  The  curd  is 
cut  into  rather  coarse  particles,  after  which  it  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
minutes,  when  the  whey  is  dipped  off,  and  for  every  200  pounds  of  milk  used  a 
small  handful  of  caraway  seed  is  added.  The  curd  is  then  dipped  into  hoops  6£ 
inches  in  height  and  the  same  in  diameter.  It  remains  in  these  hoops  for  10 
hours  and  is  frequently  turned,  after  which  it  is  transferred  to  a  wooden  hoop 
only  one-half  as  high,  where  it  remains  for  12  hours.  The  cheese  is  then 
sprinkled  with  salt  and  put  in  the  ripening  cellar,  where  it  remains  about  3 
months. 

A  soft  rennet  cheese  known  as  Fromage  de  Boite  is  made  in  the  mountains  of 
Doubs,  France,  in  the  fall.     It  resembles  Pont  l'Eveque. 

BRA. 

This  cheese  is  made  by  nomads  in  the  region  of  Bra  in  Piedmont,  Italy.  It  is 
a  hard  rennet  cheese  weighing  about  12  pounds.  The  milk,  which  is  partly 
skimmed,  is  heated  to  about  90°  F.,  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to  coagulate  it 
in  30  to  40  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  rice  grains  and  the  whey 
removed  after  about  one-half  of  an  hour.  The  curd  is  put  into  a  form  about  12 
inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  in  height  and  subjected  to  pressure  for  12  to  24 
hours.  It  is  salted  by  immersion  in  brine  and  also  by  sprinkling  salt  on  the 
surface.    The  cheese  is  then  ripened. 

BRAND. 

This  is  a  German  hand  cheese  weighing  about  one-third  of  a  pound,  made  from 
sour-milk  curd  cooked  at  a  little  higher  temperature  than  ordinarily  practiced. 
The  curd  is  salted  and  allowed  to  ferment  one  day.  It  is  then  mixed  with 
butter,  pressed  into  shape  and  dried,  and  finally  placed  in  kegs  to  ripen,  during 
which  process  it  is  moistened  occasionally  with  beer. 

BRICK. 

The  exact  derivation  of  this  name  is  not  known.  It  may  have  been  adopted 
because  of  the  shape,  or  because  of  the  fact  that  bricks  are  used  almost  exclu- 
sively for  weighting  down  the  press.  Brick  cheese  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from 
unskimmed  cow's  milk,  and  is  purely  an  American  product.  In  characteristics 
it  is  about  halfway  between  Limburg  and  Emmental.  It  has  a  strong,  sweetish 
taste,  a  sort  of  elastic  texture,  and  many  small  round  eyes  or  holes.  It  is  made 
about  10  by  6  by  3  inches  in  size.  There  are  many  factories  making  this 
product,  especially  in  southern  Wisconsin. 

Perfectly  sweet  milk  is  set  in  a  vat  at  86°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate 
it  in  20  to  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  with  Cheddar  curd  knives,  and  is  then 
heated  to  110°  to  120°  and  stirred  constantly.  The  cooking  is  continued  until 
the  curd  has  become  firm  enough  so  that  a  handful  squeezed  together  will  fall 


VMM  I   I  II  B    "I <  HI  I  n  .  11 

■pari  when  released.  11m  curd  is  then  dipped  Into  the  mold,  which  is  i  heavy 
rectangular  boa  without  a  bottom  end  with  ellta  sawed  In  the  eldei  to  allow 
drainage.    The  mold  li  aei  on  the  draining  table,  ■  follower  li  pot  on  the  card, 

and  one  or  two  bricks  are  aaed  on  each  einvse  for  pressure.  The  .-Im-.-.-s  un- 
allowed to  remain  In  the  moldi  tor  24  bourn,  when  they  are  removed,  robbed  all 
over  with  salt,  and  piled  three  deep.  The  salting  is  done  each  day  for  8  days, 
which  the  cheeae  is  taken  to  the  ripening  cellar,  which  should  have  ■  tem- 
perature of  from  60    to  66    and  be  comparatively  moist.    Ripening  reqali 

months. 

BRICKBAT. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  as  early  as  the  eighteenth  century  in  Wiltshire, 
England,  it  is  made  from  fresh  milk,  to  which  a  small  portion  of  cream  has 
been  added.    The  milk  is  set  at  about  00°  F.  and  allowed  to  stand  i(  hours  before 

the  curd  is  disturbed.  The  curd  is  cut  coarse,  dipped  into  wooden  forms,  and 
light  pressure  applied.  The  cheese  is  said  to  be  fit  for  consumption  for  one 
year  after  being  made. 

BRIE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  cheese  varies  in  size 
and  also  in  quality,  depending  on  whether  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is 
used.     The  method  of  manufacture  closely  resembles  that  of  Camembert. 

This  cheese  has  been  made  in  France  for  several  centuries.  Mention  was 
made  of  it  as  early  as  1407.  It  is  made  throughout  France,  but  more  exten- 
sively in  the  Department  of  Seine  et  Marne,  in  which  it  doubtless  originated. 
This  department  contains  Meaux,  Coulommiers,  and  Melun,  places  noted  for 
their  manufacture  of  Brie  cheese,  though  often  under  local  names.  More  or 
less  successful  imitations  of  this  cheese  are  made  in  other  countries.  It  was 
estimated  that  7,000,000  pounds  of  Brie  cheese  was  sold  in  Paris  during  1900. 
The  export  trade  is  also  very  important. 

The  milk  used  is  usually  perfectly  fresh.  It  is  not  uncommon,  however,  to 
mix  the  evening's  milk,  when  kept  cool  over  night,  with  the  morning's  milk. 
Some  artificial  coloring  matter  is  added  to  the  milk,  which  is  then  set  with 
rennet  at  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  F.  After  standing  undisturbed  for  about 
2  hours  the  curd  is  dipped  into  forms  or  hoops,  of  which  there  are  three  sizes 
in  common  use.  The  largest  size  is  about  15  inches  in  diameter,  the  medium 
size  about  12  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  smallest  size  about  G  inches  in  diam- 
eter. These  vary  in  height  from  2  to  3  inches.  After  drainage  for  24  hours 
without  pressure  being  applied,  the  hoops  are  removed  and  the  surface  of  the 
cheese  is  sprinkled  with  salt.  Charcoal  is  sometimes  mixed  with  the  salt  used. 
The  cheese  is  then  transferred  to  the  first  curing  room,  which  is  kept  dry  and 
well  ventilated.  After  remaining  in  this  room  for  about  8  days,  the  cheese 
becomes  covered  with  mold.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the  second  curing  room 
or  cellar,  which  is  usually  very  dark,  imperfectly  ventilated,  and  has  a  tem- 
perature of  about  G0°  F.  The  cheese  remains  here  for  from  2  to  4  weeks  or 
until  the  consistency  and  odor  indicate  that  it  is  sufficiently  ripened.  The  red 
coloration  which  the  surface  of  the  cheese  finally  acquires  has  been  attributed 
to  an  organism  designated  Bacillus  firmatatis.  The  ripening  is  due  to  one  or 
more  species  of  molds  which  occur  on  the  surface  and  produce  enzyms  which  in 
turn  cause  a  gradual  and  progressive  breaking  down  of  the  casein  from  the 
exterior  toward  the  center.  The  interior  of  a  ripened  cheese  varies  in  con- 
sistency from  waxy  to  semiliquid  and  has  a  very  pronounced  odor  and  a  sharp 
characteristic  taste. 


12  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

BRINSEN. 

This  cheese,  known  locally  as  Laudoch,  Zips,  Liptau.  Siebenbiirgen,  Neusohl, 
Altsohl,  and  Klencz,  is  made  in  the  Carpathian  Mountains  of  Hungary  from 
sheep's  milk,  or  a  mixture  of  sheep's  and  goat's  milk. 

The  cheese  is  made  in  small  lots,  only  2  to  4  gallons  of  milk  being  used  at 
one  time.  This  is  put  into  a  kettle  when  fresh  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added 
with  the  milk  at  a  temperature  of  from  75°  to  85°  F.  to  secure  coagulation  in 
15  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  the  whey  dipped  and  the  curd  is 
placed  in  a  linen  sack  and  allowed  to  drain  for  24  hours.  It  is  then  cut  into 
pieces  and  placed  on  a  board,  where  with  frequent  turnings  it  is  allowed  to 
remain  until  it  commences  to  get  smeary,  which  requires  about  8  days.  The 
pieces  are  then  laid  one  on  top  of  another  in  a  vessel  holding  from  40  to  60 
pounds,  where  they  remain  for  24  hours,  after  which  they  are  removed,  the 
rind  cut  away,  and  the  curd  or  partially  cured  cheese  broken  up  in  another 
vessel.  After  10  hours  salt  is  stirred  in  and  the  curd  run  through  a  mill  which 
cuts  it  very  fine,  when  it  is  packed  in  a  tub  with  beech  shavings. 

BROCCIO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  Corsica.  It  is  some- 
times mixed  with  sugar  and  rum  and  made  into  small  cakes.  It  is  similar  to 
Ziger. 

BURGUNDY. 

This  cheese,  known  in  France  as  Fromage  de  Bourgogne,  is  described  as  a 
soft,  white,  loaf-shaped  cheese  weighing  about  4  pounds. 

BUTTERMILK. 

This  cheese,  which  is  made  from  the  curd  of  buttermilk,  is  of  somewhat  finer 
grain  than  skimmed-milk  cottage  cheese,  which  it  closely  resembles.  Butter- 
milk of  0.5  or  0.6  per  cent  acidity  is  run  into  a  steam-heated  vat  or  starter  can, 
or  placed  in  a  pail  which  can  be  heated  in  a  tub  of  hot  water.  The  buttermilk 
is  stirred  and  heated  to  75°  to  78°  F.,  then  covered  and  left  for  1$  to  2  hours. 
The  temperature  is  then  raised  to  140°  F„  and  in  about  1  hour  the  curd  settles 
to  the  bottom.  The  whey  is  removed  and  the  curd  transferred  to  a  draining 
cloth  or  bag  for  about  10  hours.  It  should  be  stirred  occasionally  while  drain- 
ing. When  dry  the  curd  is  salted,  put  up  in  small  packages,  and  wrapped  in 
parchment  paper. 

CACIOCAVALLO. 

This  is  a  somewhat  peculiar  kind  of  cheese  made  from  either  whole  or  partly 
skimmed  cow's  milk.  Various  explanations  have  been  made  as  to  the  origin  of 
the  name,  which  means  literally  horse  cheese.  One  explanation  offered  is  that 
the  cheese  was  originally  made  in  the  region  of  Monte  Cavallo,  and  another  is 
that  the  imprint  of  a  horse's  head  was  made  in  each  cheese  as  the  trade-mark 
of  the  original  manufacturer.  The  original  home  of  this  cheese  was  southern 
Italy,  but  it  is  now  made  extensively  in  northern  Italy  as  well.  The  history 
of  the  cheese  dates  back  several  centuries. 

The  temperature  of  the  coagulation  of  the  milk  with  rennet  varies  greatly 
but  is  usually  from  90°  to  95°  F.  The  time  allowed  for  coagulation  is  also 
variable,  being  usually  about  one-half  hour.  The  curd  is  cut  very  finely  and 
sometimes  allowed  to  ferment  for  24  hours,  when  it  is  heated  by  means  of  very 


v\i;m  1  !i  s  mi    ,ni  i  ];; 

hot  water,  or  mora  commonly  h<»t  whey,  and  aubsequently  worked  by  band 

until  all  tin'  whry  is  expressed  and  t in-  cord  becomes  homogenous  and  capable 
of  being  draws  out  Into  long  threads,  it  is  then  molded  im<>  any  desired  shape 
and  salted  by  Immersion  In  brine  for  about  *_'  days.  Tin*  <h. •<■>«•>  ap- 
pended in  pairs  from  the  ceiling  and  Lightly  smoked.  The  surface  may  i"- 
robbed  with  olive  oil  or  butter.  They  are  kqpt  In  a  cool,  dry  room  until  sold. 
Aj  saen  on  the  market  they  vary  much  In  else  and  shape.  On  an  average  they 
weigh  about  •"»  pounds.  The  most  commou  shape  is  that  resembling  a  beet, 
a  constriction  near  the  top  being  due  to  the  Btring  which  is  tied  around  the 
■  for  tin*  purpose  of  hanging  it  up.  This  cheese  la  sometimes  eaten  while 
comparatively  fresh,  but  is  more  frequently  kept  for  months  and  then  grated 

and  used  for  flavoring  soups  and  as  an  addition  to  macaroni  and  similar  I 
A  small  quantity  IS  imported  into  the  United  Stat( 

CAERPHILLY. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Wales  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk. 
The  milk  is  set  very  sweet  at  a  temperature  of  85°  F.  with  enough  rennet  I 
agulate  It  In  1  hour.  The  curd  is  cut  in  g-lnch  cubes  and  stirred  fori  hour  with- 
out further  heating.  It  is  Hum  put  in  cloths  and  subjected  to  light  pressure  for 
an  hour  and  is  again  broken  up  fine  and  put  to  press,  where  it  remains,  with 
daily  changing,  for  3  days.  During  this  time  one-half  ounce  salt  to  each  pound 
of  curd  is  rubbed  on  the  surface.  Each  cheese  weighs  about  S  pounds.  The 
cheese  requires  about  3  weeks  for  ripening,  at  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°. 

CAMBRIDGE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  English  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  Milk  is  sot  at 
90*  T.  and  rennet  added.  At  the  end  of  1  hour  the  curd  is  dipped  into  molds 
without  cutting  and  allowed  to  stand  for  30  hours,  when  it  is  ready  for  eating. 

CAMEMBERT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  A  typical  cheese  is  about 
4J  inches  in  diameter  and  1}  inches  thick  and  is  usually  fonnd  on  the  market  in 
this  country  wrapped  in  paper  and  inclosed  in  a  wooden  box  of  the  same  shape. 
The  cheese  usually  has  a  rind  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  which 
is  composed  of  molds  and  dried  cheese.  The  interior  is  yellowish  in  color  and 
waxy,  creamy,  or  almost  fluid  in  consistency,  depending  largely  upon  the  degree 
of  ripeness. 

Camembert  cheese  is  said  to  have  originated  in  1791  in  the  locality  from  which 
it  derives  its  name  in  the  Department  of  Orne.  in  the  northwestern  part  of 
France.  The  industry  extended  soon  into  Calvados,  and  these  two  Departments 
are  still  the  principal  seat  of  the  industry.  Cheese  of  the  same  type,  however, 
is  made  in  other  parts  of  France  and  also  in  other  countries;  among  these  are 
Compiegne,  Contentin.  Pavilion,  Soumaintrain,  and  Thury-en-Valols.  Very  suc- 
cessful results  have  been  obtained  at  the  Storrs  Agricultural  Experiment  Sta- 
tion in  Connecticut. 

Camembert  cheese  is  made  from  whole  fresh  milk  or  from  milk  which  has 
been  partly  skimmed.  The  evening's  milk  may  be  skimmed  and  mixed  with  the 
fresh  morning's  milk.  The  temperature  of  setting  is  about  SO0  to  S5°  F.,  and 
the  quantity  of  rennet  added  for  this  purpose  is  sufficient  to  secure  the  desired 
degree  of  firmness  in  about  2  hours.  The  curd  is  then  transferred,  usually  with 
as  little  breaking  up  as  possible,  to  perforated  tin  forms  or  hoops  about  41 


14  VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE. 

inches  in  diameter  and  the  same  in  height.  These  rest  upon  rush  mats  which 
permit  free  drainage.  The  filling  of  the  forms  may  be  done  at  two  or  three 
times  separated  by  short  intervals  allowed  for  the  curd  to  settle.  Each  form 
holds  the  equivalent  in  curd  of  about  2  quarts  of  milk.  After  draining  for  about 
18  hours,  and  preferably  in  a  room  having  a  uniform  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
the  cheese  is  turned.  This  is  repeated  frequently  for  about  2  days,  when  the 
cheese  is  removed  from  the  forms  and  salted  on  the  outside.  Two  or  three  days 
later  the  cheese  is  transferred  to  a  well-ventilated  room,  where  the  ripening 
process  begins.  The  cheese  remains  here  for  15  to  20  days,  during  which  time 
it  is  turned  very  frequently  and  the  surface  becomes  covered  with  molds,  which 
gradually  produce  a  breaking  down  of  the  casein.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  cur- 
ing cellar,  where  the  ripening  process  is  completed  in  about  3  weeks,  when  it  is 
packed  and  marketed. 

CANQUILLOTE. 

This  is  a  skim-milk  cheese  made  in  the  eastern  part  of  France.  It  is  also 
known  locally  as  Fromagere  and  Tempete.  The  milk  is  allowed  to  coagulate 
spontaneously,  after  which  it  is  heated  gently  and  the  whey  drawn  off.  The 
curd  is  pressed  in  order  to  remove  as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible,  crumbled 
fine,  and  fermented  at  a  temperature  of  about  70°  F.  for  2  or  3  days,  dur- 
ing which  time  it  is  stirred  frequently.  When  the  cheese  has  acquired  its 
characteristic  taste  it  is  melted  with  the  addition  of  water,  salt,  eggs,  and 
butter  and  put  into  molds  of  various  kinds. 

CANTAL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  more  or  less  skimmed. 
Its  manufacture  is  extensive  in  the  Department  of  Cantal,  France.  It  is  also 
known  as  Auvergne  or  Auvergne  Blue  on  account  of  its  being  manufactured  in 
the  region  of  the  Auvergne  Mountains.  Locally  the  cheese  is  commonly  known 
as  Fourme.  The  cheese  is  doubtless  a  very  old  variety,  and  the  method  of 
manufacture  has  remained  quite  primitive.  The  milk,  usually  fresh  but  some- 
times several  hours  old,  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.,  the 
time  allowed  for  coagulation  being  about  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  cut  very 
finely  and  the  whey  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  subjected  to  pressure  in  order  to 
remove  as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible,  and  is  allowed  to  ferment  for  24  hours, 
which  process  is  considered  very  important.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  by 
hand  or  by  machinery  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  2.5  to  3  per  cent.  When 
thoroughly  kneaded  it  is  put  into  hoops  about  14  inches  in  diameter.  Pressure 
is  applied  for  about  2  days,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  very  frequently. 
The  cheese  is  next  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  remains  for  6 
weeks  to  6  months.  The  yield  of  cheese  is  usually  10  to  11  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  milk.     A  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  40  to  120  pounds. 

CHAMPOLEON. 

Champoleon,  or  Queyras,  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  in  the 
Department  of  Hautes-Alpes,  France. 

CHAOURCE. 

This  is  a  soft  whole-milk  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving  its 
name  from  the  village  of  Chaource,  in  the  Department  of  Aube,  France.  It  is 
about  4  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  thick. 


y\i;ii  i  n>   Of   ciii.i  -i  .  15 

chaschOl  de  chaschosis. 

This  cheese  Is  made  In  the  canton  of  Orisons,  Bwitierland  it  is  i  bard  ren 
net  cheeee  made  from  Bklmmed  eow'i  milk.  The  cheeeei  are  iv  to  22  Inches  In 
diameter,  ■"•  to  I  Inchei  high,  and  weigh  from  22  t<»  40  pounds. 

CHEDDAR. 

'riiis  cheese  is  s«»  named  from  the  village  <>f  Cheddar  in  Somersetshire,  Bug 
land,  where  ii  was  flrsl  made,     it  is  a  comparatively  old  cheese,  though  the  gen.' 

nine  Cheddar  process  as  it  is  now  known  is  n«»t  old.    Cheddar  cheese  is  an  ex 
ceedingly  popular  variety,  being  much  used  as  a  food  product  in  America  and 

England,  it  is  probably  the  most  important  of  all  cheeses  as  regards  iii«'  quan- 
tity made  annually.  The  term  Cheddar  as  used  at  the  present  time  applies 
usually  to  a   process  of  making  rather  than   to  any   particular  Shape  of  cheese. 

The  name,  however,  is  occasionally  used  to  designate  a  certain  size  of  cheese  1  1 
to  Id  Inches  in  diameter,  and  weighing  from  GO  to  100  pounds.  Cheese  made  by 
the  Cheddar  process  has,  however,  many  different  shapes  with  distinguishing 
Dames,  BUCh  as  Flats,  which  have  the  same  diameter  as  the  Cheddar  size,  hut 
weigh  only  ::<i  to  m  pounds;  Daisies,  which  are  12  inches  in  diameter  and  weigh 
20  pounds:  Young  Americas,  which  are  8  inches  in  diameter  and  weigh  8  to  12 
pounds;  Long  Horns,  which  are  5  inches  in  diameter  and  weigh  12  pounds;  and 
Squares,  which  are  of  various  sizes  and  usually  3  to  4  inches  thick.  The  cheese 
may  he  white  or  colored  yellow,  and  it  may  he  almost  fresh  or  thoroughly  ripened 
and  broken  down.  It  is  made  from  sweet  cow's  milk,  which  may  be  skimmed, 
partly  skimmed,  or  unskimmed.  When  made  from  unskimmed  milk  the  cheese 
is  called  "  full  cream ;  "  when  otherwise,  it  is  called  M  part  skim  "  or  "  skim." 

The  milk,  morning's  and  evening's  mixed,  is  set  at  85°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet 
to  coagulate  to  the  proper  point  in  from  25  to  40  minutes.  At  the  time  of  set- 
ting the  milk  should  have  an  acidity  of  about  0.18  to  0.20  per  cent.  Color  may 
or  may  not  be  used.  The  curd  is  cut  when  it  breaks  evenly  before  the  finger. 
The  cutting  is  done  with  curd  knives.  These  knives  are  made  up  of  blades  set 
about  one-third  of  an  inch  apart  in  frames.  In  one  frame  the  knives  are  set  per- 
pendicularly and  in  the  other  horizontally.  When  well  cut  the  curd  is  in  uni- 
form cubes  of  about  one-third  of  an  inch. 

After  cutting  the  curd  is  heated  slowly  and  with  continued  stirring  until  it 
reaches  a  temperature  of  from  96°  to  108°.  With  the  use  of  mechanical  agita- 
tors, as  is  the  common  practice,  the  curd  should  be  heated  about  4  degrees 
higher  than  when  stirring  is  done  by  hand.  After  heating  the  stirring  is  con- 
tinued intermittently  until  the  curd  is  sufficiently  firm.  This  is  determined  by 
squeezing  a  handful,  which  should  fall  apart  immediately  on  being  released. 
The  whey  is  then  drawn.  At  the  same  time  the  acid  should  have  reached  about 
0.20  per  cent  or  one-fourth  of  an  inch  on  the  hot  iron,  which  latter  is  determined 
by  measuring  the  length  of  strings  when  the  curd  is  touched  to  a  hot  iron.  The 
curd  is  then  matted  about  4  inches  deep,  sometimes  in  the  bottom  of  the  vat, 
sometimes  on  racks  covered  with  a  coarse  linen  cloth.  After  it  has  remained 
here  long  enough  to  stick  together  it  is  cut  into  rectangular  pieces  easy  to  handle, 
which  are  turned  frequently  and  finally  piled  two  to  four  deep;  in  the  mean- 
while the  temperature  of  the  curd  is  kept  at  about  90°.  When  the  curd  has 
broken  down  until  it  has  the  smooth  feeling  of  velvet,  which  requires  from  one 
to  three  hours,  it  is  milled  by  means  of  a  machine,  which  cuts  it  into  pieces  the 
size  of  a  finger.  It  is  then  stirred  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat  until  whey  ceases  to 
run,  which  requires  from  one-half  to  one  and  one-half  hours,  when  it  is  salted  at 
the  rate  of  2  to  2*  pounds  of  salt  to  100  pounds  of  milk.  It  is  then  ready  to  put 
in  press.     The  curd  is  put  into  tinned  iron  hoops  of  the  proper  size,  which  are 


16  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

lined  with  cheese-cloth  bandages.  The  hoops  are  put  in  presses  and  great  pres- 
sure is  applied  by  means  of  screws.  The  next  morning  the  cheese  is  removed 
from  the  hoops  and  put  on  shelves  in  a  curing  room.  Formerly  the  cheese  was 
kept  in  a  curing  room  as  long  as  6  months,  but  at  the  present  time  it  is  covered 
with  a  coat  of  paraffin  and  put  in  cold  storage  when  3  to  12  days  of  age.  There 
is  a  growing  demand  on  the  part  of  consumers  for  mild  cheese,  and  consequently 
ripening  must  be  carried  on  at  a  temperature  below  50°. 

An  important  point  in  the  process  of  manufacturing  Cheddar  cheese  is  the 
development  of  the  desired  amount  of  acid.  A  maximum  quantity  in  the  whey 
that  can  be  developed  without  injuring  the  texture  of  the  cheese  is  aimed  at, 
and  the  proper  breaking  down  of  the  curd  before  milling  and  salting  is 
attributed  to  the  acid.  It  is  very  probable  that  too  much  weight  has  been 
placed  on  the  desirability  of  a  maximum  development  of  acid,  and  that  prac- 
tically as  good  cheese  can  be  produced  without  the  high  acid. 

Some  of  the  details  in  the  manufacture  of  Cheddar  cheese  are  varied  to 
some  extent,  and  other  names  may  be  used  to  designate  the  cheese  so  made. 
A  stirred  curd  cheese  is  one  where  the  curd  particles  are  not  allowed  to  mat 
together  after  the  whey  is  drawn.  The  curd  is  stirred  at  intervals  to  prevent 
this  matting  process,  but  it  differs  from  the  sweet  curd  cheese,  as  acid  is  allowed 
to  develop  before  salting  and  pressing.  Formerly  there  was  a  comparatively 
large  quantity  of  stirred  curd  cheese  made,  but  there  is  very  little,  if  any,  made 
at  the  present  time. 

A  washed  curd  cheese  varies  from  the  regular  Cheddar  process  in  having  the 
milled  curd  subjected  for  a  short  period  to  cold  water.  This  process  is 
evidently  practiced  to  force  the  curd  to  take  up  a  small  percentage  of  the 
water  and  increase  the  yield.  It  results  in  a  cheese  which  apparently  breaks 
down  or  ripens  much  more  rapidly  than  cheese  made  in  the  ordinary  way. 
This  ripening  is  very  likely  not  due  to  the  excess  of  moisture  but  to  some 
other  unexplained  reason.  Some  States  have  prohibited  the  use  of  the  State 
brand  on  washed  curd  cheese. 

CHESHIRE. 

This  cheese  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  popular  of  the  English  varieties. 
It  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk,  and  is  named  for 
Chester  County,  England,  where  it  is  largely  produced.  It  is  made  in  cylin- 
drical shape  from  14  to  16  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  50  to  70  pounds. 
In  making  this  cheese  sufficient  annatto  is  used  to  give  the  product  a  very 
high  color.  The  process  of  manufacture  varies  in  detail  in  different  sections. 
Perfectly  sweet  milk,  night's  and  morning's  mixed,  is  set  at  a  temperature  of 
from  75°  to  90°  F.  The  curd  is  cut  in  1  hour,  usually  with  an  instrument  in 
which  knives  are  set  in  a  frame  to  cut  cubes  1  to  li  inches  square.  This  is 
pushed  down  through  the  curd  and  finally  worked  back  and  forth  at  an  angle. 
This  is  continued  until  the  particles  of  curd  are  the  size  of  peas,  which  requires 
about  1  hour.  The  curd  is  then  allowed  to  settle  and  mat  on  the  bottom  of 
the  vat  for  about  an  hour,  when  it  is  rolled  up  to  one  end,  weighted  down, 
and  the  whey  drawn  after  the  desired  degree  of  acidity  has  been  obtained. 
The  curd  is  cut  in  pieces  the  right  size  to  handle  and  is  piled  on  racks.  It  is 
then  run  through  a  curd  mill,  salted  at  the  rate  of  3  pounds  to  1,000  pounds 
of  milk,  and  put  into  a  hoop  having  a  number  of  holes  in  the  side  through 
which  skewers  can  be  thrust  into  the  cheese  to  promote  drainage.  The  cheese 
in  the  hoop  is  put  in  a  heated  wooden  box  called  an  oven,  and  sometimes  light 
pressure  is  applied,  the  pressure  increasing  gradually  until  it  reaches  about 
1  ton.  The  curing  cellar  or  room  is  about  60°  to  65°.  From  8  to  10  months 
is  required  for  thorough  ripening. 


v  \i;i!  ;  iis   01   (in  I  17 

CHKSIIIk'K  STILTON. 

T!-.is  is  i  combination  of  the  Cheshire  and  Btlltoo  rarletlef  of  chooao  hi 
which  iii«'  general  characteiietlcf  of  size  and  shape  and  manufacture  of  the 
Oheahlre  li  retained,  and  b  growth  »»f  the  moid  |i«'fuii:n-  t<>  stiiton  is  s.-nnvd. 
The  mold  la  aecnred  by  keeping  out  each  day  i  small  portion  of  cord  and 
nilxlng  it  with  some  curd  In  which  the  moid  is  growing  well. 

CHIAVARI. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  the  region  of  Chiavari,  Italy,  from  whole 

COW'S  milk.     It   is  also  known  as  Cacio   Koinano.     A    bard    rennet    Cheeee  made 

in  the  same  region  is  also  known  by  this  name. 

COMMISSION. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Holland  and  resembles  Edam  in  the  process  of  manu- 
facture, but  ii  has  a  sli-htly  different  shape,  being  flattened  at  the  ends.  It  is 
said  to  be  made  from  whole  cow's  milk. 

COTHERSTONE. 

This  is  a  rennet  cow's-milk  cheese  made  in  Yorkshire,  England,  and  resembles 
the  well  known  Stilton  cheese  of  that  country.  It  is  a  local  product  manufac- 
tured only  on  a  small  scale.    It  has  also  been  known  as  Yorkshire-Stilton. 

COOKED. 

This  kind  of  cheese  is  so  called  because  the  curd  is  heated  to  the  melting  point 
in  its  manufacture.  It  is  made  from  fresh  curd  prepared  by  breaking  up  and 
heating  the  curd  of  sour  clabbered  milk.  When  cooled  sufficiently  this  curd  is 
placed  in  a  receptacle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  3  or  4  days  until  it  has  become 
colored  throughout.  It  is  then  put  into  a  kettle  over  a  fire;  salt,  milk,  and 
usually  caraway  seed  are  added,  and  the  whole  is  stirred  vigorously  until  it 
becomes  of  the  consistency  of  thick  molasses,  or  until  it  strings  when  a  spoon 
is  withdrawn.  The  mass  can  then  be  put  into  molds  until  it  becomes  cold,  or 
placed  in  a  vessel  for  keeping.  It  gets  hard  with  cooling  and  will  retain  the 
shape  of  the  mold. 

Cooked  cheese,  made  in  northern  Germany,  is  called  Topfen,  and  a  similar 
product  made  in  Sardinia  is  called  Freisa,  and  Paneddas.  The  same  kind  of 
cheese  made  in  Belgium  is  called  Belgian  cooked  cheese.  Similar  kinds  are 
made  in  other  countries. 

COTTAGE. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  extensively  in  this  country,  where  it  is  often 
called  Dutch  cheese,  and  Smearcase.  It  is  manufactured  usually  in  a  very 
small  way,  but  occasionally  it  is  made  in  large  factories.  Skim  milk  is  allowed 
to  sour  and  the  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  held  at  a  temperature  of  about 
100°  F.  for  3  to  4  hours,  or  until  it  has  become  sufficiently  firm.  The  whey  is 
then  drained  off  and  the  curd  placed  under  slight  pressure  for  a  time.  The  curd 
is  either  consumed  immediately  or  is  packed  in  tubs  and  placed  in  cold  storage. 
It  is  prepared  for  eating  by  moistening  with  either  milk  or  cream.  Sometimes 
it  is  made  up  into  shapes  and  wrapped  in  tin  foil.  No  ripening  is  ever  allowed. 
10415°— Bull.  146—11 2 


18  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

COULOMMIERS. 

This  is  a  small-sized  Brie  cheese  5  to  6  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  in 
thickness,  and  weighing  about  1  pound.  It  is  made  in  the  region  of  Coulom- 
miers,  France. 

CREAM. 

Genuine  cream  cheese  is  made  from  a  rich  cream  thickened  by  souring,  or 
from  sweet  cream  thickened  with  rennet.  This  is  put  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to 
drain,  the  cloth  being  changed  several  times  during  the  draining,  which  re- 
quires about  4  days.  It  is  then  placed  on  a  board  covered  with  a  cloth,  sprinkled 
with  salt,  and  turned  occasionally.  It  is  ready  for  consumption  in  from  5  to  10 
days. 

Another  variety  of  cream  cheese  is  made  from  cream  with  a  low  content  of 
fat  (12  to  15  per  cent).  The  cream  is  curdled  with  rennet,  broken  up  to  allow  a 
part  of  the  whey  to  escape,  and  is  then  mixed  and  worked  into  almost  a  paste. 
This  is  then  molded  into  pieces  weighing  2  to  4  ounces,  which  are  wrapped  in 
tin  foil  and  placed  on  the  market  without  curing.  It  is  a  very  mild  and  a  very 
rich  cheese  and  is  manufactured  on  an  extensive  scale  by  a  few  large  factories 
in  the  United  States. 

A  so-called  double-cream  cheese,  known  in  France  as  Fromage  Double  Creme, 
is  made  by  coagulating  a  mixture  of  milk  and  cream  and  putting  this  into  a 
cloth  and  allowing  it  to  drain  thoroughly,  when  it  is  salted,  kneaded,  and  molded 
into  any  desired  shape.    It  is  eaten  fresh.    The  Gervais  is  a  cheese  of  this  kind. 

A  French  cream  cheese,  Fromage  a  la  Creme,  is  prepared  by  mixing  sweet 
cream  with  well-ripened  sour-milk  curd  or  rennet  curd.  Another  French  cream 
cheese,  which  contains  considerable  salt  as  a  preservative,  is  known  as  Deini- 
sel.  There  are  in  addition  several  cream  cheeses  having  specific  names,  such 
as  Philadelphia  Cream. 

In  the  United  States  cream  cheese  is  usually  sold  under  some  trade  name, 
such  as  Philadelphia  Cream.  The  manufacturers  in  this  country  have  in  some 
cases  attempted  to  vary  this  cheese  by  the  use  of  some  flavoring  matter  or 
condiment. 

CREUSE. 

This  is  a  skim-milk  farm  cheese  made  in  the  department  of  the  same  name  in 
France.  Coagulation  is  secured  either  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of 
rennet  or  by  heating  the  sour  milk.  When  set  with  rennet  the  period  required 
is  usually  12  hours.  The  curd  is  put  into  earthenware  molds  about  7  inches  in 
diameter  and  5  to  6  inches  in  height,  the  bottom  and  sides  being  perforated. 
After  draining  for  several  days  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  molds,  salted, 
and  turned  frequently.  It  becomes  in  time  very  dry  and  hard  and  may  be 
preserved  for  a  year  or  longer.  The  cheese  is  also  ripened  by  placing  in  tightly 
closed  receptacles  lined  with  straw,  in  which  case  it  becomes  yellow  and  soft 
and  acquires  a  very  pronounced  taste. 

CRISTALINNA. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  the  Canton  of  Grau- 
bunden,  Switzerland. 

DAMEN. 

This  is  a  soft  uncured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Hungary  and  is 
much  in  demand  in  the  markets  of  Vienna.  It  is  sometimes  known  as  Gloire 
des  Montagnes. 


\  \i;  1 1  in  -   mi     ,ii  i  i  [g 

DANISH    EXPORT. 

This  cheese  Li  made  In  pome  of  the  creameries  of  Denmark  to  tarnish  an 

.•in  vi  for  the  skim  milk  : 1 1 n I  the  buttermilk,  in  the  process  of  manufacture  aa 
high  as  L6  per  cenl  of  fresh  buttermilk  is  added  to  the  skim  milk.  The  mixture 
is  Bel  at  '-|s  r.  with  aufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  In  •_'.""»  minutes.  The  curd  La 
carefully  and  evenly  cut,  stirred  for  ;i  tew  minutes,  dipped  Into  forma  having 
rounded  bottoms,  kneaded,  pressed  down,  and  finally  covered  with  n  board,  upon 
which  a  weight  Is  placed.  Twelve  hours  later  the  cheeses  are  placed  In  a  brine 
tank  for  -i  hours,  when  they  arc  taken  oul  and  covered  with  sah  for  a  short 
time.  They  are  then  transferred  to  the  ripening  room,  where  the  temperature 
is  about  66  .  and  are  turned  and  wiped  wit b  a  clot b  ei en-  day  for  6  weeks.    The 

Cheeses  are  cylindrical  in  shape  and  are  small  and  Hat. 

DERBYSHIRE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  in  Derbyshire,  Knur- 
land.  It  is  cylindrical  in  shape  and  about  the  size  of  the  Cheshire,  though  often 
Smaller.  It  is  made  usually  in  farm  dairies,  and  because  of  this  fact  the  size 
varies  with  the  size  of  the  herd.  The  quality  also  varies  to  such  an  extent  that 
very  few  really  good  cheeses  can  be  found.  Night's  milk  in  which  the  develop- 
ment of  arid  has  been  prevented  as  much  as  possible  is  mixed  with  the  morning's 
milk,  and  the  whole  is  set  at  a  temperature  of  S0°  F.  The  Betting  period  is  1 
hour,  and  the  curd  is  allowed  to  become  very  firm  before  cutting.  The  curd 
is  cut  to  the  size  of  a  pea  and  after  being  allowed  to  settle  is  piled  in  the  center 
of  the  vat.  where,  after  the  whey  is  removed,  it  is  subjected  to  light  pressure. 
The  curd  is  cut  and  again  piled  and  heavier  pressure  applied.  This  is  repeated 
until  the  curd  reaches  a  certain  degree  of  firmness,  when  it  is  run  through  a' 
mill  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  1  pound  of  salt  to  1,000  pounds  of  milk.  It  iM 
then  put  in  a  press  for  1  hour,  when  it  is  removed  and  the  surface  of  the  cheese 
scalded  for  1  minute  in  water  heated  to  150°.  It  is  put  back  in  the  press  for  5 
hours,  the  pressure  applied  being  gradually  increased,  when  it  is  salted  on  the 
surface  and  again  pressed.  The  pressing  continues  for  3  days,  the  cheese  being 
salted  each  day.  The  curing  room  is  kept  preferably  at  00°,  and  the  time 
required  for  curing  is  from  3  to  4  months. 

A  cheese  railed  Gloucester  made  in  the  county  of  Gloucester,  England,  is  said 
to  be  identical  with  Derbyshire  cheese.  Double  Gloucester  is  identical  with 
single  Gloucester  in  all  respects  but  size.  It  is  twice  as  thick  as  a  single 
Gloucester,  hence  the  name.  Wiltshire,  Leicestershire,  and  Warwickshire 
cheeses  belong  to  the  Derbyshire  type. 

DEVONSHIRE  CREAM. 

In  making  this  cheese  the  cream  is  allowed  to  rise  for  several  hours,  when 
the  milk  with  the  layer  of  cream  is  scalded.  It  is  then  set  away  for  a  short 
time  in  order  that  the  layer  of  cream  may  harden.  The  cream  is  then  put  into 
small  molds  and  placed  upon  straw  mats  to  drain.  After  becoming  hard  enough 
to  retain  its  shape  it  is  ready  for  market. 

DORSET. 

Dorset,  or  Blue  Dorset,  is  a  cheese  resembling  in  character  and  method  of 
manufacture  the  better  known  Stilton.  It  is  named  from  Dorsetshire,  England, 
in  which  it  is  made. 


20  VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 

DOTTER. 

This  cheese  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  G.  Leuchs,  in  Nurnberg,  by  mixing 
the  yolk  of  eggs  with  skim  milk  and  making  this  mixture  into  cheese  in  the* 
usual  way. 

DRY. 

This  cheese,  known  also  as  Sperrkase  and  Trockenkiise,  is  made  in  the  east- 
ern part  of  the  Bavarian  Alps  and  in  the  Tyrol,  in  the  small  dairies  of  those 
localities.  It  is  an  extremely  simple  product  made  for  home  consumption,  and 
is  made  only  in  the  winter  season,  when  the  milk  can  not  be  profitably  used 
for  other  purposes.  As  soon  as  the  milk  is  skimmed  it  is  put  into  a  large  kettle 
which  can  be  swung  over  a  fire.  Here  it  is  kept  warm  until  it  is  thoroughly 
thickened  from  souring.  It  is  then  broken  up  and  cooked  quite  firm.  A  small 
quantity  of  salt  and  sometimes  some  caraway  seed  are  added,  and  the  curd  is 
put  into  forms  of  various  sizes.  It  is  then  placed  in  a  drying  room,  where  it 
becomes  very  hard,  when  it  is  ready  for  eating. 

DUEL. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  is  an  Austrian 
product,  2  by  2  by  1  inches  in  size. 

DUNLOP. 

This  was  formerly  the  national  cheese  of  Scotland,  but  it  has  been  almost 
superseded  by  the  Cheddar,  which  it  resembled. 

EDAM. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  produced  in  Holland ;  it  is  also  known  as  Katzen- 
kopf,  Tete  de  Maure,  and  Manbollen.  The  best  of  the  product  is  made  of  un- 
skimmed cow's  milk,  but  much  of  it  at  the  present  time  is  made  from  milk 
which  has  had  at  least  one-half  of  the  fat  removed.  The  cheeses  are  round 
and  are  colored  deep  red  on  the  surface  or  wrapped  in  tin  foil. 

The  perfectly  fresh  milk  is  set  at  90°  to  95°  F.  Color  is  added  and  sufficient 
rennet  is  used  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  15  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  and  after 
a  very  short  stirring  is  allowed  to  settle  to  the  bottom,  when  the  whey  is  dipped 
off.  The  curd  is  gathered  in  a  pile  and  pressure  is  applied  for  a  short  time  to 
expel  the  whey.  Care  is  taken  in  the  meanwhile  that  the  curd  does  not  get 
below  82°  or  above  90°.  The  curd  is  then  ready  for  the  press.  Sometimes 
wooden  molds  are  used,  but  the  best  are  made  of  iron.  An  attempt  is  made  to 
put  just  sufficient  curd  into  the  mold  to  make  a  perfect  sphere  when  pressed. 
When  the  mold  is  half  full  a  little  salt  is  added.  When  the  mold  is  full,  it  is 
pressed  lightly  until  the  cheese  will  hold  its  form,  when  it  is  taken  out  and  im- 
mersed in  water  for  two  minutes  at  125°.  The  cheese  is  then  put  in  the  press, 
where  it  remains  for  12  hours.  It  is  then  removed  from  one  mold  and  placed 
in  another  form  resembling  the  mold  but  without  a  cover,  and  having  a  hole 
leading  from  the  bottom.  The  cheese  is  salted  by  rubbing  salt  on  the  surface. 
Sometimes  it  is  kept  in  a  salt  bath  for  a  day  before  putting  salt  on  the  surface. 
Following  the  salting,  the  cheese  is  washed  in  hot  whey,  and  the  surface  is 
scraped  smooth.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  ripening  cellar,  which  should  have  a 
temperature  of  between  50°  and  70°.  Here  it  is  turned  daily  for  a  time  and 
finally  twice  a  week.  In  the  meanwhile  it  is  occasionally  moistened  with  cold 
water  or  fresh  beer.    When  the  cheese  is  1  month  old  it  is  washed  in  water  at 


VAIM1.I "ITS    Of    ('III   !  2  I 

70°  for  20  minutes  :i  tui  then  placed  lo  1 1  i  *  -  sun  to  dry,  after  which  it  Is  rubbed 
with  Linseed  oH.  Before  shipping  the  cbeeee  li  colored,  usually  red,  bul  for 
some  markets  it  la  colored  yellow  with  annatto.  Tbli  coloring  li  done  witii  b 
watery  solution  of  litmus  and  Berlin  red,  or  with  carmine     A  considerable 

quantity  of  this  ChOOSO  is  Imported  Into  the  I'nilcd  States.  At  the  present  Mine 
some  Fdain  cheeses  are  inclosed   in  air-tight   tins  for  export. 

ELBING. 

This  is  .-i  West   Prnaalan  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  which, 

during  the  winter,  is  partly  skimmed,  hut  at  Other  times  left  whole.  It  is 
known   also   as    W'orderkase   and    Xiodorungskaso.      Enough    rennet    is   added    to 

the  milk  at  a  temperature  of  80°  F.  to  coagulate  it  in  from  15  to  30  minutes. 

The  CUrd   is  cut   and  cooked   to   100°,   salted   in   the  granular  state,  and   pn 

for    1J   hours.      A    cheese   is   lo   to  20   inches   in   diameter  and   l)   to    I    inches   in 

thickness.    Ripening  requires  about  i  month  at  a  temperature  of  75°. 

EMMENTAL. 

This  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk,  and  has  a 
mild,  somewhat  sweetish  flavor.  It  is  characterized  by  holes  or  eyes  which 
develop  to  about  the  size  of  a  penny  in  typical  cheeses  and  are  situated  from 
1  to  3  inches  apart.  Cheese  of  the  same  kind  made  in  the  United  States  is 
known  as  Domestic  Swiss,  and  that  made  in  the  region  of  Lake  Constance  is 
called  Algau  Kmmental.  Other  local  names  are  Belhmese,  Formaggio  Dolce, 
Fontine  d'Aosta,  and  Thraanen. 

Kmmental  cheese  originated  in  Canton  Bern,  Valley  of  Emmental,  Switzer- 
land. It  is  a  very  old  variety.  In  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  a  cheese 
probably  of  this  type  was  manufactured  in  the  Canton  of  Emmental.  In  the 
middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  industry  was  well  developed  and  genuine 
Emmental  cheese  was  being  exported.  In  1722  its  manufacture  under  the  name 
of  Gruyere  is  recorded  in  France,  two  cooperative  societies  having  been  organ- 
ized for  this  purpose. 

Emmental  cheese  is  now  manufactured  in  every  civilized  country.  In  the 
United  States  there  are  many  factories,  located  principally  in  Wisconsin,  New 
York,  and  Ohio.  In  Switzerland  the  greater  part  of  the  milk  produced  is  made 
into  this  product,  and  large  districts  in  France  and  northern  Italy  are  devoted 
to  its  manufacture.  The  best  of  the  product  made  in  Switzerland  is  exported, 
about  o. 000,000  pounds  coming  to  the  United  States  annually.  The  imported 
cheese  sells  in  this  country  at  about  25  cents  a  pound  wholesale,  and  the  do- 
mestic cheese  sells  at  about  14  cents.  Practically  as  good  cheese  can  be  manu- 
factured in  the  United  States  as  in  Switzerland,  but  prejudice,  combined  with 
the  fact  that  much  of  the  domestic  product  is  sold  as  imported,  has  held  the 
price  at  a  low  level. 

There  is  a  slight  difference  in  manipulation  of  the  milk  in  making  Emmental 
cheese  in  this  country  as  compared  with  Switzerland.  In  the  latter  country  the 
evening's  and  morning's  milk  are  made  up  together,  while  in  the  United  States  it 
is  popularly  believed  that  the  evening's  milk  must  be  made  into  cheese  immedi- 
ately after  milking,  as  is  done  with  the  morning's  milk. 

In  making  the  cheese  in  Switzerland  the  evening's  milk  is  skimmed:  the  fresh 
morning's  milk  is  heated  to  10S°  to  110°  F.  and  the  cream  from  the  evening's 
milk  is  added  and  well  stirred  in.  The  cooled  evening's  milk  with  a  little  saf- 
fron is  then  added  and  the  whole  is  mixed.  The  milk  is  then  brought  to  a  tem- 
perature of  90°  in  summer  and  95°  in  winter  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to 


22  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

coagulate  the  milk  in  30  to  40  minutes.  The  whole  process  is  carried  through 
in  a  huge  copper  kettle  holding  300  gallons  of  milk.  The  rennet  used  is  the 
calf's  stomach  soaked  for  24  hours  in  whey.  When  the  milk  has  thickened  to 
almost  the  desired  point  for  cutting,  which  is  practically  the  same  as  for  ordi- 
nary American  or  Cheddar  cheese,  the  thin  surface  layer  is  scooped  off  and 
turned  bottom  side  up.  This  is  supposed  to  aid  in  incorporating  the  layer  of 
cream  with  the  cheese.  The  curd  is  then  cut  very  coarse  by  means  of  a  so-called 
harp.  The  cheese  maker  with  a  wooden  scoop  in  each  hand  then  draws  the 
mass  of  curd  toward  him,  that  lying  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  being  brought 
to  the  surface.  At  this  point  the  cheese  maker  and  an  assistant  commence 
stirring  the  curd  with  the  harp,  a  breaker  having  first  been  fitted  to  the  inside 
of  the  kettle  to  interrupt  the  current  of  the  whey  and  curd.  The  harps  are 
given  a  circular  motion  and  cut  the  curd  very  fine — about  the  size  of  wheat 
kernels  or  smaller. 

After  this  stage  is  reached  heating*  is  commenced.  In  Switzerland  all  of  the 
heating  until  recently  was  done  over  an  open  fire,  the  kettle  being  swung  on  a 
large  crane,  and  most  of  the  factories  have  the  same  method  at  the  present  time. 
In  this  country  the  same  method  was  followed  in  the  early  days  of  the  industry, 
but  at  the  present  time  inclosed  fireplaces  into  which  the  kettle  can  be  swung 
and  doors  closed  to  retain  the  heat  are  largely  employed.  This  takes  away 
much  of  the  discomfort  of  the  operation.  In  a  few  instances  the  kettles  are  set 
in  cement  and  an  iron  car  containing  the  fire  is  run  under  it.  The  more  modern 
factories  employ  steam,  and  this  appears  to  be  the  most  satisfactory  way. 
When  the  heating  is  begun  the  contents  of  the  kettle  are  brought  rapidly  to  the 
desired  temperature,  which  may  be  from  126°  to  140°,  the  higher  temperature 
often  being  necessary  to  get  the  curd  sufficiently  firm.  The  stirring  in  the  mean- 
while continues  for  about  1  hour,  with  slight  interruptions  near  the  end  of  the 
process  when  the  curd  has  become  so  firm  that  it  will  not  mat  together.  The 
end  of  the  cooking  is  determined  by  the  firmness  of  the  curd,  which  is  judged 
by  matting  a  small  cake  with  pressure  by  the  hands  and  noting  the  ease  with 
which  this  cake  breaks  when  held  by  the  edge. 

When  the  curd  is  sufficiently  firm  the  contents  of  the  kettle  are  rotated 
rapidly  and  allowed  to  come  to  standstill  as  the  .momentum  is  lost.  This  brings 
all  the  curd  into  a  cone-shaped  pile  in  the  center  of  the  kettle.  One  edge  of  a 
heavy  linen  cloth  resembling  burlap  is  wrapped  around  a  piece  of  hoop  iron  and 
by  this  means  the  cloth  is  slipped  under  the  pile  of  curd.  The  mass  of  curd  is 
then  raised  from  the  whey  by  means  of  a  rope  and  pulley  and  lowered  into  a 
cheese  hoop  on  the  draining  table.  These  hoops  are  4  to  6  inches  deep  and 
vary  greatly  in  diameter.  The  cloth  is  folded  over  the  cheese,  a  large  follower 
is  put  on  top,  and  the  press  is  allowed  to  come  down  on  the  cheese.  The  press 
is  usually  a  log  swung  at  one  end  and  operated  by  a  double  lever.  Pressure  is 
continued  for  the  first  time  just  long  enough  for  the  curd  mass  to  retain  its 
shape.  The  hoop  is  then  removed,  the  cheese  turned  over,  and  a  dry  cloth  sub- 
stituted. The  cheese  is  allowed  to  remain  in  the  press  about  24  hours,  during 
which  time  it  is  turned  and  a  dry  cloth  substituted  several  times  (six  or  more). 

At  the  end  of  the  pressing  the  curd  should  be  a -homogeneous  mass  without 
holes.  The  cheese  is  then  removed  to  the  salting  board,  covered  with  a  layer  of 
salt,  and  turned  occasionally.  In  a  day  or  two  it  is  put  in  the  salting  tank  in  a 
brine  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg;  it  remains  here  at  the  discretion  of  the 
cheese  maker  for  1  to  4  days.  Often  no  brine  tank  is  used  with  Emmental 
cheese. 

The  cheese  is  then  taken  to  the  curing  cellar.  In  the  best  factories  two  or 
more  cellars  with  different  temperatures  are  available,  and  the  cheeses  are 
placed  in  them  according  to  the  way  the  cheese  maker  thinks  their  development 


VMM  I    I  23 

r«Mju *  thai  iii<'  cheese  maj  develop  t<".  fast  and  have  t..,.  many 

and  tOO  lai  If  I  be  r«  lie,  a 

warm  cellar  Is  selected.    The  cellar 

though  in  extreme  caaea  70    or  ■  little  higher  may  be  used     While  the  <•'. 

are  In  the  ripening  cellar,  which  In  sw  Itzerland  0  to  10  months  or  '■■ 

and  In  t h«^  United  Btatee  •"'.  to  <*»  months,  they  should  be  tnrned  and  washed 

other  day  for  the  first   3  or  .".  months  and  at   loi  errata  subsequently, 

and  at  the  same  time  a  little  coarse  Bprinkled  <>n  the  surf 

few  hours  this  salt  lias  dissolved,  and  the  brine  is  Bpread  over  the  Burface  with 

a  long-handled  brush. 

Hie  cheeses  are  very  targe,  aboul  6  indies  in  thickness  and  sometim< 
much  in  diameter,  and  weigh  Prom  <".•>  t<«  220  pounda     in  ahippl 

number  of  them  are  placed  In  a  tui>  which  may  contain  1,000  pounds  of  <  ■ 
Sometimes  Emmental  cheese  is  made  up  In  the  form  of  blocks  I  I  like 

millstones.    The  blocks  are  about  28  inches  long  and  8  Inches  square  in  the 
ether  dimensions, 

ENGADINE. 

This  is  made  In  the  Canton  of  Graubtinden,  Switzerland,  and  is  a  rennet 
Cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk. 

ENGLISH  DAIRY. 

This  name  is  applied  to  a  very  hard  cheese,  made  in  the  same  general  way  as 
Cheddar,  hut  cooked  much  more.  This  cheese  has  been  made  mostly  in  the 
United  States.     It  is  used  for  culinary  purposes. 

EPOISSE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  in  the 
Department  of  Cote  d'Or,  France. 

ERVY. 

This  is  a  soft  whole-milk  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving 
its  name  from  the  village  of  Ervy,  in  the  Department  of  Aube,  France,  a 
cheese  is  about  7  inches  in  diameter.  2\  inches  thick,  and  weighs  about  4  pounds. 

FARM. 

This  cheese,  made  in  France,  and  known  variously  as  Fromage  a  la  Pie.  Mou. 
Bfaigre,  and  Ferine,  is  essentially  the  same  as  our  Cottage  cheese.  The  method 
of  making  is  very  simple.  When  the  skimmed  milk  has  become  curdled  the 
whey  is  poured  off  and  the  curd  kneeded  and  molded  into  various  sizes  and 
shapes.  Draining  is  sometimes  hastened  by  placing  a  board  and  weight  upon 
the  curd.  Salt  and  sometimes  sweet  cream  are  added.  The  cheese  is  consumed 
usually  on  the  farm  where  made,  either  while  fresh  or  after  it  has  undergone 
fermentation. 

FILLED. 

Filled  cheese  is  the  name  applied  to  cheese  from  which  the  butter  fat  has  been 
removed  and  foreign  fats  added.  The  foreign  fat  is  added  by  stirring  it  vio- 
lently in  the  milk  and  setting  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  quickly.  The 
rest  of  the  manufacture  is  the  same  as  for  Cheddar  cheese.  Filled  cheese  was 
very  extensively  manufactured  in  the  United  States  for  a  number  of  years,  but 
State  and  Federal  laws  have  made  this  no  longer  practical.  Many  of  the 
European  varieties  of  cheese  are  counterfeited  or  adulterated  in  the  same 
manner. 


24  VAEIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 

FLOWER. 

This  cheese  is  so  named  because  it  is  made  with  the  addition  of  the  petals  of 
various  kinds  of  flowers,  such  as  roses  and  marigolds.  It  is  a  soft  cured  rennet 
cheese  made  in  England  from  whole  cow's  milk. 

FORMAGELLE. 

This  is  a  small  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  the  north- 
western part  of  Italy. 

FORMAGGINI. 

This  name  is  applied  to  several  kinds  of  small  Italian  cheeses.  The  kind 
designated  Formaggini  di  Lecco  is  a  small  cylindrical  dessert  cheese,  weighing 
nbout  2  ounces,  made  in  the  region  of  Lecco,  in  Lombardy.  It  is  consumed  while 
fresh  and  sweet  and  at  all  stages  of  ripening  until  it  becomes  very  piquant. 
Sometimes  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  cinnamon  are  mixed  with  this  cheese,  and 
occasionally  oil  and  vinegar  are  added.  The  method  of  manufacture  is  not 
essentially  different  from  that  of  other  soft  cheeses.  Cow's  milk  is  used  with 
the  addition  at  times  of  some  goat's  milk.  Rennet  is  added  to  the  warmed 
milk,  which  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours  at  a  temperature  of  about 
55°  F.  The  curd,  with  as  little  breaking  up  as  possible,  is  allowed  to  drain  for 
3  to  4  hours,  when  it  is  salted  and  put  into  cylindrical  molds  about  11  inches 
in  diameter  and  2  inches  high. 

FROMAGE  FORT. 

Several  kinds  of  cooked  cheese  prepared  in  France  are  known  by  this  name. 
In  the  Department  of  Ain,  Fromage  Fort  is  prepared  by  melting  well-drained 
skim-milk  curd,  putting  the  melted  mass  into  a  cloth,  and  subjecting  it  to 
pressure  and  afterwards  burying  it  in  dry  ashes  in  order  to  remove  as  much  of 
the  whey  as  possible.  The  mass  is  then  grated  fine  and  allowed  to  ferment  for 
8  to  10  days,  after  which  milk,  butter,  salt,  pepper,  wine,  etc.,  are  added  to  it, 
and  the  mixture  is  allowed  to  undergo  further  fermentation. 

Canquillote,  Cancoillotte.  or  Fromagere,  prepared  in  the  eastern  part  of 
France,  is  a  cheese  of  this  kind,  as  is  also  the  Fondue,  or  cooked  cheese,  of 
Lorraine. 

GAMMELOST. 

Gammelost  is  made  in  Norway  from  skimmed  sour  milk.  The  milk  is  cooked 
or  warmed  in  a  kettle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  1  hour  while  the  precipitated 
casein  gathers  at  the  bottom.  This  is  taken  up  in  a  cloth,  and  the  whole  is  put 
into  a  form  where  light  pressure  is  applied.  The  cheese  still  in  the  cloth  in  the 
form  is  put  in  the  hot  whey  for  an  hour,  when  it  is  again  placed  under  pressure 
for  a  short  period.  It  is  put  in  a  warm  place  and  turned  daily.  At  the  end  of 
34  days  it  is  packed  in  a  chest  with  wet  straw.  The  cheeses  vary  in  weight  from 
24  to  65  pounds. 

GAUTRAIS. 

This  is  a  cylindrical  cheese  weighing  about  5  pounds  and  very  closely  resem- 
bling Port  du   Salut.     It   is  made   in   the   Department   of  Mayenne,   France. 

GAVOT. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  cow's,  sheep's,  or  goat's  milk  in  the  Department  of 
Hautes-Alpes,  France. 


vAKirrn  sor  OHna  25 

QBHEIlfRATH. 

This   is  a   rluN'se  made  in  small  quant  it  let  in    Holland.      Il    resembles  a   small 

Gouda  cheese  In  quality  ami  process  <>r  manufacture,    it  is  colored  a  deep  yellow. 

g£rome. 

This  la  a  aofl  rennet  cheeae  made  in  the  mountalnona  reglona  of  the  Vo 
Prance.    The  name  la  a  corruption  of  Gerardmer,  ■  tillage  In  the  region  where 

the  cheese  lias  been  made  tor  at  leaal  SO  years.    The  variety  is  rery  similar  to 

Minister,  but  not  so  well  known. 

00W*8  milk  la  used  almost  exclusively,  though  at  times  a   little  goat'a  milk  is 

added.  The  fresh  milk  is  sot  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  *><>  to  90  P. 
In  about  one-half  hour  after  adding  the  rennet  the  curd  is  cut  Into  rather 
large  cubes  and  allowed  to  stand  tor  about  i  hour  when  the  whey  is  dipped  off. 
The  curd  is  thou  put  Into  cylindrical  forms  or  boopa  6  to  7  Inches  In  diameter. 

Formerly  these  were  made  of  wood,  one  being  placed  upon  another,  making  a 
total  height  of  14  to  l.~»  Inches.  They  are  now  being  made  also  on  tin  and  in 
rariOUS  sizes.  The  cheeses  are  turned  after  0  hours  and  again  after  12  hours. 
During  the  next  2  or  o  days  they  are  turned  twice  daily,  the  hoops  being 
Changed  each  time.  A  room  temperature  between  GO0  and  70°  is  desired  during 
this  process.  The  cheeses  are  then  salted,  the  amount  of  salt  used  being  from 
3  to  3.5  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  cheese. 

The  cheeses  are  then  placed  in  a  well-ventilated  room  for  several  days  and 
when  sufficiently  dry  are  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar.  Here  they  are  turned 
frequently  and  worked  with  warm  salt  water  to  prevent  the  growth  of  molds. 
Ripening  requires  from  G  weeks  to  4  months,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the 
cheeses,  which  vary  in  weight  from  one-half  pound  to  5  pounds  or  more.  Anise 
is  sometimes  incorporated  with  the  curd  before  putting  into  the  forms.  Such 
cheese  when  old  often  has  a  greenish  appearance. 

GERVAIS. 

This  is  a  French  cheese  made  from  a  mixture  of  whole  milk  and  cream.  The 
mixture  is  set  with  rennet  at  about  G5°  F.,  the  time  required  being  about  12 
hours.  The  curd  is  then  inclosed  in  cloth  and  hung  up  to  drain.  When  sutfi- 
ciently  dry  it  is  salted  and  pressed  into  molds.  The  molds  are  soon  removed  ami 
the  cheese  is  wrapped  in  paraffin  paper.  The  cheese  is  usually  consumed  while 
fresh,  but  may  be  kept  for  several  days. 

GEX. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  belongs  to  the  class 
of  blue  or  marbled  cheese  known  in  France  as  Fromage  Persille,  which  includes 
Sassenage,  Septmoncel.  and  several  other  kinds  resembling  Roquefort  It  is 
made  principally  in  the  southeastern  part  of  France  and  derives  its  name  from 
the  town  of  Gex,  in  the  Department  of  Ain.  where  the  cheese  has  been  made  for 
at  least  GO  years.  There  has  been  little  tendency  for  the  industry  to  extend  to 
other  regions  than  that  in  which  it  originated,  and  even  here  it  is  Bald  to  be 
diminishing. 

Rennet  is  added  to  the  fresh  milk  as  soon  as  possible  after  milking.  The  time 
allowed  for  coagulation  is  1£  to  2  hours.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and 
stirred  until  the  mass  is  in  a  semiliquid  condition,  when  it  is  allowed  to  stand 
for  about  10  minutes.  After  the  curd  has  settled  to  the  bottom  of  the  vat  the 
whey  is  drained  off.     The  curd  is  then  worked  by  hand,  salted  lightly,  and  put 


26  VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 

into  hoops  about  12  inches  in  diameter  and  5  inches  in  height.  In  about  1  hour 
the  cheese  is  turned  and  a  disk  and'weight  placed  upon  it.  The  turning  is  re- 
peated three  or  four  times  a  day,  the  hoops  being  removed  at  the  end  of  the 
first  day.  After  salting,  the  cheese  is  taken  to  the  curing  room,  where  it  soon 
acquires  a  bluish  appearance,  due  to  the  development  of  a  penicillium.  This 
mold  is  not  introduced  into  the  interior  of  the  cheese  during  making  by  means 
of  mottled  bread,  as  is  the  case  with  Roquefort  cheese.  The  ripening  process, 
which  requires  from  3  to  4  months,  is  completed  in  cellars  or  natural  caves.  A 
ripened  cheese  weighs  from  14  to  15  pounds. 

GISLEV. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Denmark  from  skimmed  cow's  milk. 

GLUMSE. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  sour  skimmed  milk  in  western  Prussia.  The  thick- 
ened milk  is  placed  over  a  slow  fire  at  about  105°  F.  and  is  cooked  as  long  as 
any  whey  is  expelled.  The  cooking  may  be  done  by  pouring  hot  water  into 
the  milk.  After  cooking,  the  curd  is  removed  from  the  whey  with  a  perforated 
dipper  and  is  allowed  to  drain  in  a  hair  sieve.  Milk  or  cream  is  added  to  the 
cheese  just  before  eating.     This  is  evidently  a  cottage  cheese. 

GOAT'S  MILK. 

There  are  a  large  number  of  goat's-milk  cheeses,  many  of  which  are  not  des- 
ignated by  local  names.  In  France  some  of  these  are  known  by  the  names 
Chevret  or  Chevrotin,  in  Italy  as  Formaggio  di  Capra,  and  in  German-speaking 
countries  as  Ziegenkase  or  Gaiskiisli.  Among  those  in  France  to  which  local 
names  have  been  attached  are  Gratairon,  Lamothe,  and  Poitiers. 

The  Gaiskasli  is  a  soft  cheese  made  in  certain  parts  of  Germany  and  Switzer- 
land. The  milk  is  set  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  about  40  minutes. 
The  curd  is  then  broken  up,  stirred,  and  dipped  into  cylindrical  molds  about  3 
inches  in  diameter.  The  mold  is  filled  sufficiently  to  make  a  cheese  1£  to  2 
inches  thick  and  weighing  one-half  pound.  The  mold  is  set  on  a  straw  mat 
which  allows  the  whey  to  drain  freely,  and  salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface. 
In  2  days  the  cheese  is  turned,  and  the  other  surface  is  salted.  The  cheese 
requires  about  3  weeks  to  ripen  and  is  said  to  have  a  very  pleasant  flavor. 

A  kind  of  cheese  is  made  in  Norway  by  drying  goat's  milk  by  boiling,  fresh 
milk  or  cream  sometimes  being  added  during  the  process. 

GORGONZOLA. 

This  variety,  known  also  as  Stracchino  di  Gorgonzola,  is  a  rennet  Italian 
cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  The  name  is  taken  from  the  village  of 
Gorgonzola,  near  Milan,  but  very  little  of  this  cheese  is  now  made  in  that 
immediate  locality.  The  interior  of  the  cheese  is  mottled  or  veined  with  a  peni- 
cillium much  like  Roquefort,  and  for  this  reason  the  cheese  has  been  grouped 
with  the  Roquefort  and  Stilton  varieties.  As  seen  upon  the  markets  in  this 
country,  the  surface  of  the  cheese  is  covered  with  a  thin  coat  resembling  clay, 
said  to  be  prepared  by  mixing  barite  or  gypsum,  lard  or  tallow,  and  coloring 
matter.  The  cheeses  are  cylindrical  in  shape,  being  about  12  inches  in  diameter 
and  6  inches  in  height,  and  as  marketed  are  wrapped  in  paper  and  packed  with 
straw  in  wicker  baskets. 

The  manufacture  of  Gorgonzola  cheese  is  an  important  industry  in  Lombardy, 
where  formerly  it  was  carried  on  principally  during  the  months  of  September 


v  \  i;  ii.  i  ii  >  mi  en  i  i  27 

ami  October,  but  vrltli  the  eatabliahment  of  earing  cellars  In  the  Alps,  especially 

near  LeCCO,  the  manufacture  is  no  longer  cc »ulin«tl   !•■  (liis  season. 

The  mill;  used  in  making  this  cheeee  ia  warmed  to  a  temperature  of  about  75" 
f.  and  coagolated  rapidly  with  rennet,  the  time  required  being  usually  from  \~>  bo 
ln»  minutes.  The  curd  la  then  cm  reiy  ftnelj  and  Incloeed  In  b  cloth  and  drained, 
after  which  it  la  put  Into  hoopa  L2  Lnchea  In  flfa meter  and  LO  Inchea  nigh,  it 
waa  formerly  thecuatom  to  allow  thecnrd  from  the  evening's  milk  to  drain  orer 
night  ami  to  mil  it  wiiii  the  fresh  warm  curd  from  the  morning's  milk  prepared 
in  the  aame  way.  The  curd  from  the  evening's  milk  and  thai  from  the  morn- 
lng'a milk,  crumbled  very  fine,  were  put  Into  hoopa  In  layera  with  moldy  bread 
crnmba  Interaperaed  between  the  layera.  The  cheeee  is  turned  frequently  for 
•i  or  S  days,  the  cloths  being  changed  occasionally,  and  la  Baited  from  the  out- 
aide,  the  proceaa  requiring  about  2  weeks,  n  is  then  transferred  to  the  curing 
rooms,  where  a  low  temperature  is  usually  maintained.  At  an  early  Btage  In 
the  proceaa  of  ripening  the  cheese  is  usually  punched  with  an  Instrument  about 
0  inches  long,  tapering  from  a  sharp  point  to  a  diameter  of  about  one-eighth 

inch  at  the  base,  Ahont  150  holes  are  made  in  each  Cheese.  This  favors  the 
development  of  the  penicillium  throughout  the  interior  of  the  cheese.  Well- 
made  cheese  may  be  kept  for  a  year  or  longer.  In  the  region  where  made  much 
Of  the  cheese  is  consumed  while  in  a  fresh  condition. 

GOUDA. 

This  is  a  Holland  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  cow's  milk.  It 
is  round  and  weighs  10  to  4.">  pounds.  The  milk,  to  which  coloring  matter 
has  been  added,  is  set  at  91°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  15 
minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  or  broken  with  a  wooden  scoop,  a  harp,  or  an  Amer- 
ican cheese  knife.  It  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  minute  and  the  whey  is  dipped 
off.  Hot  whey  or  hot  water  is  poured  on  the  mass  of  curd  until  the  whole 
has  reached  a  temperature  of  104°  to  110°.  When  the  curd  squeaks  or  whistles 
when  it  is  crushed  between  the  teeth  the  whey  or  water  is  dipped  off  and  the 
curd  is  stirred  and  piled  where  it  will  drain  well.  The  curd  is  then  thoroughly 
kneaded  and  sometimes  lightly  salted.  After  salting,  the  curd  is  put  into 
round  molds  and  placed  in  a  press,  where  it  remains  for  24  hours  with  Increas- 
ing pressure.  The  cheese  is  then  salted  either  by  immersion  in  brine  or  by 
rubbing  salt  on  the  surface.  The  salting  coutinues  for  4  to  S  days.  After 
salting,  the  cheese  is  washed  with  hot  whey.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the 
ripening  cellar,  where  it  is  turned  daily  for  several  days  and  finally  once  a 
week  until  ripened.  It  is  ready  for  consumption  in  G  to  S  months.  When  the 
cheese  is  a  few7  days  old  it  is  washed  with  water  and  colored  with  saffron. 
Some  of  this  cheese  is  shipped  to  the  United  States.  As  seen  in  this  country, 
each  cheese  is  covered  with  an  animal  tissue  said  to  be  a  bladder. 

GOURNAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  which  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Gour- 
nay  in  the  Department  of  Seine-Inferieure.  France,  where  it  is  made.  It  is 
about  3  inches  in  diameter  and  three-fourths  inch  thick. 

GOYA. 

This  cheese  is  manufactured  in  the  Province  of  Corrientes,  in  the  Argentine 
Republic.  Either  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  used.  It  is  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  75°  to  85°  F.  and  coagulated  with  rennet  in  15  to  30  minutes.  The 
curd  is  cut  and  put  into  sacks  to  drain,  after  which  it  is  put  into  molds. 


28  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

GRANULAR  CURD. 

This  cheese  resembles  the  genuine  Cheddar  process  cheese  in  all  points  ex- 
cepting that  it  is  not  matted  and  milled.  As  soon  as  the  curd  is  cooked  firm 
enough  it  is  salted  and  pressed.  Because  no  acid  is  developed  between  cooking 
and  pressing,  a  little  more  acid  may  be  allowed  to  develop  before  drawing  the 
whey,  and  the  curd  should  be  cooked  firmer. 

GRAY. 

This  is  a  sour  skim-milk  product  of  the  Tyrol.  When  the  milk  is  thickened 
the  curd  is  brought  to  a  proper  firmness  by  light  heating,  and  is  then  dipped 
into  a  cheese  cloth,  care  being  taken  that  the  flocculent  matter  at  the  bottom 
of  the  kettle  is  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  rest  of  the  curd  in  order  to  insure  an 
even  product.  The  curd  is  put  under  a  press  for  10  minutes,  when  it  is  broken 
up  by  hand  or  in  a  mill  and  salt  and  pepper  are  added.  The  curd  is  then  put 
into  forms  or  hoops,  and  to  insure  the  proper  ripening  a  little  well-ripened 
grated  gray  cheese  is  added,  or  bread  crumbs  with  the  characteristic  mold 
growth  are  mixed  with  the  curd  as  it  is  put  into  the  forms.  The  forms  are 
made  in  various  shapes  and  sizes  and  are  supplied  with  holes  to  facilitate 
drainage.  The  cheese  remains  in  the  forms  under  pressure  for  24  hours,  and 
is  then  taken  to  the  drying  room,  which  has  a  temperature  of  70°  F.  The 
length  of  time  it  should  remain  in  the  drying  room  is  determined  by  the  appear- 
ance of  the  cheese.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  ripening  cellar.  The  cheese  when 
ripened  has  a  pleasant  taste  and  a  gray  appearance  through  the  entire  mass. 

GRUYERE. 

This  name  is  applied  to  Emmental  cheese  manufactured  in  France,  the  name 
originating  from  the  Swiss  village  of  Gruyere.  The  cheese  was  first  mentioned 
in  1722,  when  two  societies  were  reported  to  have  been  organized  for  its  manu- 
facture. The  Gruyere  cheese  is  made  in  three  different  qualities — whole  milk, 
partly  skimmed,  and  skimmed.  It  is  usually  made  from  partly  skimmed  milk, 
and  this  is  supposed  to  distinguish  it  from  Emmental,  which  is  supposed  to 
be  made  from  whole  milk.  The  manufacture  of  Gruyere  cheese  is  an  extensive 
industry  in  France,  about  50,000,000  pounds  having  been  manufactured  annually 
the  latter  part  of  the  last  century. 

GUSSING. 

This  is  an  Austrian  skim-milk  cheese  weighing  from  4  to  8  pounds.  It  re- 
sembles very  much  the  Brick  cheese  of  the  United  States  and  is  made  in  practi- 
cally the  same  way. 

HAND. 

Hand  cheese  is  so  named  because  it  was  molded  originally  into  its  final  shape 
by  hand.  It  is  a  sour-milk  cheese,  very  popular  among  German  races,  and 
manufactured  in  many  countries. 

The  process  of  making  varies  in  different  localities,  but  in  general  is  about 
as  follows:  The  skimmed  milk  is  mixed  with  buttermilk  and  put  into  a  tinned 
vessel,  where  it  is  held  at  a  favorable  temperature  for  souring.  When  thick 
the  curd  is  broken  up  by  stirring  and  heated  to  120°  F.  The  cooking  is  con- 
tinued for  about  3  hours  and  for  the  first  hour  of  this  time  is  stirred  thoroughly. 
After  cooking,  the  whey  is  drained  off  and  the  curd  is  put  in  a  mold  for  cooling. 
It  is  then  ground  fine  in  a  curd  mill  and  salt  is  incorporated,  and  for  some  kinds 


v  \i;n  I  ii  >  OF  (Mill.  29 

Cartway   I I   Is  added.     The  curd   is  then   pressed   into  the  .:  hapcs  ami 

The  small  cheeses  are  dried  in  m  warm  room  and  then  transferred  to  the 
coring  cellar,  where  they  ;||V  kept  on  shelves  until  the  ripening  on  the  rai 

commenced,  when  they  are  packed  in  boxes.  The  cheese  bat  a  ren  -harp, 
pungenl  odor  ami  taste,  which  to  moat  people  mmccostomed  to  it  \t 

able. 

There  are  many  local  names  for  hand  cheeses,  among  which  ;uv  (he  following  : 

Thurlngis  caraway  cheese;  [hlefeld,  made  in  Mecklenburg;  Livlander,  made  in 
,i ;    Olmiitzer    Bierk&ee;    Dresdener    Bierkaee;    Bats,    made    in    Saxony; 
Tyrol  sour  cheese;  Berliner  Kuhkaee;  ami  Ait  Kuhkase. 

HARZ. 

This  is  a  hand  cheese  made  in  different  sizes,  it  is  l*  to  2h  Inches  in  diam- 
eter ami  one-fourth  to  three-fourths  inch  in  thickness  ami  weighs  one-fourth 

pound.      It  is  identical  in  manufacture  with  hand  cheese. 

HAY. 

This  cheese,  known  as  Fromage  de  Foin,  is  a  skiin-inilk  variety  made  in  the 
Department  of  Seine-Inferieure,  France.  The  cheese  derives  its  name  from 
the  fact  that  it  is  ripened  on  as  freshly  cut  hay  as  possible,  which  givi 
characteristic  aroma  to  the  cheese.  The  cheese  in  some  respects  resembles  a 
poor  grade  of  Livarot  It  is  about  10  inches  in  diameter  and  2  to  3  inches 
thick. 

The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  F.  In  about  1 
hour  the  curd  is  cut  and  the  whey  removed;  the  curd  is  then  pressed  to  re- 
move as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible,  after  which  it  is  pressed  by  hand  into 
molds.  After  draining  for  about  2  days  it  is  put  into  the  drying  room,  where 
it  remains  for  about  3  weeks,  when  it  is  taken  to  the  curing  cellar  and  buried 
in  hay.  After  remaining  here  for  G  weeks  to  3  months  it  is  ready  for  sale. 
The  consumption  of  this  variety  is  largely  restricted  to  the  region  where  it  is 
made. 

HOHENHEIM. 

This  is  a  soft  cheese  made  in  Hohenheim  from  partly  skimmed  milk.  It  is 
cylindrical  in  shape,  4  to  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  about  one-half  pound. 

The  skimmed  evening's  milk  is  added  to  the  morning's  milk  and  heated  in 
a  copper  kettle  to  110°  F.  Some  saffron  is  used  for  color  and  rennet  is  added. 
In  1  to  1£  hours  the  curd  is  broken  up  and  the  whey  dipped  off.  Caraway 
seed  is  stirred  in,  by  which  process  the  curd  is  reduced  to  smaller  particles. 
It  is  then  dipped  into  tin  hoops  having  holes  to  allow  easy  draining.  The 
curd  remains  in  these  hoops  for  12  hours  and  an  additional  12  hours  on  a  dry- 
ing board.  It  is  then  sprinkled  with  salt  and  when  this  is  dissolved  it  is  again 
salted  and  placed  in  the  ripening  cellar.      Ripening  requires  3  months. 

HOLSTEIN  HEALTH. 

This  is  a  cooked  cheese  made  from  sour  skimmed  milk,  the  local  name  being 
Holsteiner  (iesundheits  Kiise.  The  milk  is  heated  lightly  and  the  curd  is 
strongly  pressed;  it  is  then  well  mixed  and  put  in  a  tin  kettle.  A  little  cream 
and  salt  are  added  and  the  whole  is  stirred  while  it  is  being  heated  to  the 
melting  temperature  over  a  fire.  It  is  then  put  into  a  hoop  or  mold  which 
holds  about  one-half  pound  and  is  allowed  to  cool. 


30  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

HOLSTEIN  SKIM-MILK. 

As  the  name  indicates,  this  is  a  skim-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Province  of 
Holstein,  where  it  is  known  as  Holsteiner  Magerkiise.  Usually  in  the  manu- 
facture of  this  cheese  6  per  cent  of  buttermilk  is  added  to  separator  skim  milk. 
A  part  is  heated  to  160°  F.  and  the  remainder  is  mixed  with  the  pasteurized 
portion.  The  milk  is  colored  with  saffron,  and  rennet  powder  is  used  for 
coagulating  the  casein,  which  requires  about  35  minutes.  The  curd  is  then 
broken  up  and  allowed  to  remain  in  the  whey  for  30  minutes  without  stirring. 
A  cloth  is  then  used  for  lifting  the  curd  from  the  whey,  and  1  per  cent  of  salt 
is  mixed  in.  The  curd  is  pressed  for  one-half  hour,  when  it  is  turned  and 
pressure  again  applied.  The  pressure  is  gradually  increased  from  5  pounds 
to  9  pounds  for  each  pound  of  cheese.  The  cheese  is  transferred  to  the  curing 
cellar,  which  has  a  temperature  of  60°.  It  is  here  turned  daily  until  ripened, 
which  requires  4  months.     Each  cheese  weighs  from  12  to  14  pounds. 

HOP. 

Hop  or  Hopfen  cheese  is  a  German  product.  The  ground  curd  is  salted  and 
allowed  to  ripen  for  3  or  4  days,  when  it  is  mixed  with  fresh  curd  and  molded 
into  small  cheeses  measuring  about  1\  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  in  thick- 
ness. These  are  placed  in  a  well-ventilated  room  and  allowed  to  become  quite 
dry,  when  they  are  packed  in  hops. 

HVID   GJEDEOST. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Norway.  The  milk  is  set  at  70°  F. 
or  higher.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  is  cooked  in  the  usual  manner.  It  is 
then  pressed  in  forms  9  to  10  inches  long,  6  inches  broad,  and  4  inches  high. 
The  cheese  is  made  only  for  local  consumption. 

ILHA. 

Ilha  is  a  Portuguese  word  meaning  island,  and  is  applied  to  the  cow's  milk 
cheeses  made  in  the  Azore  Islands  and  imported  quite  extensively  into  Portugal. 
They  are  moderately  firm  cheeses  measuring  10  to  12  inches  in  diameter  and 
about  4  inches  in  thickness. 

INCANESTRATO. 

This  name  is  applied  to  cheese  made  in  Sicily.  The  mixture  of  evening's  and 
morning's  milk  is  curdled  with  rennet  in  about  three-fourths  of  an  hour.  The 
curd  is  then  stirred  thoroughly  and  2  per  cent  of  water  is  added.  After  stand- 
ing for  5  minutes  the  curd  is  separated  from  the  whey,  pressed  by  hand,  and 
sometimes  allowed  to  ferment  for  2  to  3  days,  when  it  is  cooked  in  whey  and  then 
pressed  and  salted.  Various  spices  are  added.  A  kind  known  as  Majocchino  and 
made  in  the  region  of  Messina,  out  of  cow's,  goat's,  and  sheep's  milk,  contains 
olive  oil. 

ISIGNY. 

This  is  an  American  cheese  originating  about  30  years  ago  in  attempts  to 
make  Camembert  cheese  in  this  country.  The  proper  ripening  for  Camembert 
cheese  was  not  secured  and  hence  a  distinct  name  was  given  to  the  product. 
The  cheese  is  slightly  larger  than  Camembert  but  of  the  same  shape.  The 
ripened  product  bears  a  close  resemblance  to  Limburg.  The  process  of  manu- 
facture is  similar  to  that  of  Camembert.  During  ripening,  however,  the  cheese 
is  washed  and  rubbed  occasionally  to  check  the  growth  of  molds  on  the  surface. 


VARIETIES   OF   cm  i  .'!  1 

JACK. 

.1.1.  was  tirst  made  In  Monterej  County,  < '.1 1..  m1m.ui  28  years  ago  and 

was  first  called  Monterey  cheese,     its  manufacture  under  tiiis  name  If  still 

limited  t"  thai   State,  but  its  method  of  manufacture  agrees  closely  with  the 

granular  curd  method  tor  Cheddar  cheese.     Morning's  and  evening's  milk  is 

ii i i v *•* i  and  warmed  in  a  vat  from  S6fl  to  B8C  P.  and  rennel  extract  added  at  the 

rat«'  of  <;  i«.  8  ounces  per  1,000  pounds  of  milk.    No  coloring  matter  Is  need,     n 

idy  for  the  curd  knife  In  aboul  half  an  hour.  Its  readiness  being  determined 

as  in  Cheddar  cheese.    The  cutting  is  done  with  m  curd  knife,  the  product  then 

I  Btlrred  by  hand  ami  by  rake.    The  curd  is  heated  from  98    in  winter  to 

to  110    in  summer.    After  the  temperature  is  up  it  is  stirred  occasionally 

with  the  rake  until  the  whey  is  drawn  at  <U  I  to  0.18  per  cent  acidity.  The  curd 
is  then  stirred  thoroughly  to  keep  from  matting  and  is  salted  at   the  rate  of  \[ 

pounds  to  mo  pounds  of  curd,  tiie  whole  being  thoroughly  stirred.  During  the 
salting  process  cold  water  is  run  under  the  vat,  the  hot  water  haying  been 
previously  run  off. 

The  curd  is  put  Into  press  cloths  at  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  F.,  do  hoops 
being  need.  One  gallon  of  curd  Is  put  Into  each  cloth,  making  a  cheese  weigh  Ing 
r,\  pounds.  The  corners  of  the  cloth  are  caught  up  tight,  the  cheese  being 
pressed  and  rolled  with  the  other  hand.  These  are  then  pressed  over  night  and 
placed  in  the  curing  rooms  for  3  weeks  before  being  ready  to  ship. 

JOCHBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  a  mixture  of  cow's  and  goat's  milk  in  the  Tyrol. 
The  cheese  weighs  1"  pounds  and  is  20  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  high. 

JOSEPHINE. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  in  Silesia.  It 
is  put  up  in  small  cylindrical  packages 

KAJMAK. 

The  Turkish  word  Ka.jmak  signifies  cream  and  is  used  to  designate  a  product 
made  in  Servia  and  sometimes  known  as  Servian  butter.  This  product  is.  how- 
ever, analogous  to  a  cream  cheese.  The  milk  is  boiled  and  put  into  large 
shallow  vessels  usually  made  of  wood,  and  allowed  to  stand  for  12  hours,  when 
the  cream  is  removed  and  usually  salted.  The  flavor  varies  greatly  with  the 
age  of  the  sample  and  is  said  to  be  between  that  of  a  goat's-milk  cheese  and 

Roquefort. 

KASCAVAL. 

This  is  a  loaf-shaped  rennet  cheese  weighing  from  4  to  6  pounds,  made  from 
sheep's  milk  in  Bulgaria,  Roumania,  and  Transylvania.  Goat's  milk  is  some- 
times added.     Considerable  quantities  of  the  cheese  are  exported. 

KATSCHKAWALJ. 

This  is  a  sheep's  milk  cheese  made  in  Servia.  The  milk  is  curdled  with  ren- 
net and  the  curd  is  drained  and  inclosed  in  tin  cans  which  are  put  into  boiling 
water.  The  curd  is  subsequently  worked  by  hand  and  molded  into  various 
shapes.     A  cheese  weighs  ordinarily  about  G  pounds. 

KJARSGAARD. 
This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Denmark  from  skimmed  cow's  milk. 


32  VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 

KLOSTER. 

This  is  a  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  It 
has  a  somewhat  unusual  shape,  1  by  1  by  4  inches,  and  weighs  less  than  one- 
fourth  pound. 

KOLOS-MONOSTOR. 

This  is  a  sheep's-milk  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  agricultural  school  in 
Transylvania.  The  cheese  is  rectangular  in  shape,  8$  by  5  by  3  inches,  and 
weighs  4  pounds. 

KOPPEN. 

Koppenkase  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Germany.  The  milk  is  set  at 
80°  to  85°  F.,  and  after  the  whey  has  been  dipped  off  the  curd  is  put  into  a  cup- 
shaped  vessel  which  gives  form  to  the  cheese  and  also  the  name.  The  cheese  is 
placed  in  a  warm  room  and  sprinkled  with  salt.  It  is  allowed  to  dry  for  from  2 
to  3  days  and  is  then  placed  in  the  ripening  room.  The  ripened  cheese  weighs 
from  3  to  4  ounces.    It  has  a  sharp,  pungent,  slightly  smoky  flavor. 

KOSHER. 

This  cheese  under  various  names  is  made  in  several  countries.  It  is  a  cow's- 
milk  rennet  cheese  made  for  the  Jewish  trade.  The  process  of  manufacture 
resembles  that  of  Limburg.    The  cheese,  however,  is  eaten  fresh. 

KOSHER  GOUDA. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  especially  for  the  Jewish  trade.  It  is  identical  with  a 
Gouda  cheese  in  every  way  except  in  size  and  in  having  no  bladder  covering. 
It  weighs  from  4  to  6  pounds  and  is  8£  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  thick. 
It  bears  a  stamp  which  identifies  it  to  the  Jewish  consumer.  Small  quantities 
are  imported  into  this  country. 

KRUTT. 

Krutt,  or  Kirgischerkase,  is  made  by  the  nomadic  tribes  of  the  middle  Asiatic 
Steppes  from  sour  skim  milk  of  the  cow,  goat,  sheep,  or  camel.  When  the  milk 
coagulates  salt  is  added  and  the  curd  is  hung  up  in  a  sack  to  drain,  after  which 
it  is  subjected  to  moderate  pressure.  The  curd  is  then  made  up  into  small  balls 
which  are  placed  in  the  sun  to  dry. 

KUHBACH. 

This  is  a  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed 
cow's  milk.  It  is  a  German  product,  made  in  upper  Bavaria.  It  is  cylindrical 
in  shape,  weighs  2  pounds,  and  is  6  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  high. 

LAGUIOLE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  varying  but  little  if  any  from  Cantal  and  re- 
sembling Roquefort.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Laguiole  in  the 
Department  of  Aveyron,  France.  The  cheese  is  made  extensively  in  thexmoun- 
tains  of  Aubrac,  where  it  is  said  to  have  been  made  at  the  time  of  the  Roman 
occupation.  The  milk,  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet,  the 
time  allowed  being  about  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  allowed  to  ferment  for  about 
24  hours  and  is  then  put  into  hoops  and  pressed.  At  least  1  month  is  required 
for  ripening.  Laguiole  or  Guiole  cheese  is  considered  superior  to  Cantal, 
although  the  two  varieties  are  made  in  essentially  the  same  way. 


v  \i;ii.  l  i!  -  O]     •  in  i 
LANCA8HIB 

This  is  an  English  cheese  named  from  the  countj  In  which  ii  The 

evening's  milk  is  partly  skimmed  and  Is  heated,  so  thai  when  the  morning's 
milk  Is  added  the  temperature  of  the  whole  is  brought  to  90  P.,  or  iiigiiUv 
higher.  Enough  rennet  la  added  to  coagulate  the  milk  In  l  hour  The  curd  Is 
broken  up,  stirred  for  a  short  time,  and  preened  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat  by 
means  of  a  heavy  sieve.  The  whey  Is  soon  drained  off  and  the  curd  Is  ground 
In  s  curd  mill  Into  particles  tin*  size  of  kernels  of  corn  and  then  put  Into  the 
press.  Baiting  is  done  In  brine,  In  which  the  cheese  is  placed  for  \  t<>  «*»  days. 
From  the  brine  tank  the  cheese  Is  transferred  t<>  the  curing  room. 

LANGRES. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  In  the  northeastern  part  of  Prance.  It 
derives  its  name  from  the  village  <»t"  Langres  in  the  Department  of  Baute-Marne, 

Where  it  is  said  to  have  been  made  since  the  time  of  the  Merovingian  kings. 
The  perfectly  fresh  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  90°  to 
85     P.     After  standing  for  several  hours  it  is  put  into  cylindrical  forms.     The 

cheeses  ripen  for  about  2  to  3  months.  A  rij>ened  cheese  weighs  from  1$  to  2 
pounds  and  is  about  5  inches  in  diameter  and  8  inches  high.  The  cheese  is 
consumed  for  the  most  part  iu  the  region  where  made. 

LAPLAND. 

The  Laplanders  make  a  variety  of  cheese  from  the  milk  of  the  reindeer.  It 
resembles  very  much  the  harder  varieties  of  the  Emmeutal  group.  The  cheese 
has  a  very  unusual  shape.  It  is  round  and- flat  and  is  so  formed  that  a  cross 
section  would  resemble  a  dumbbell  with  angular  instead  of  round  ends. 

LATTICINI. 

This  is  applied  to  cheeses  made  from  the  milk  of  buffaloes,  particularly  in  the 
region  of  Naples,  but  also  iu  other  parts  of  Italy. 

LEATHER. 

Leather,  Leder,  or  Holstein  dairy  cheese  is  made  in  Schleswig-Holstein.  from 
skimmed  cow's  milk  with  an  addition  of  from  5  to  10  per  cent  of  buttermilk. 

The  milk  is  set  at  from  95a  to  100°  F.  and  requires  25  to  ."»r>  minutes  for 
coagulation.  It  is  then  broken  up  with  a  harp  or  a  stirring  stick,  and  is  stirred 
with  a  Danish  stirrer.  When  the  particles  are  reduced  to  the  size  of  peas  the 
curd  is  piled  up  on  one  side  of  the  vat  or  kettle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  10 
minutes.  The  whey  is  then  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  cut  with  a  knife  into  pieces 
the  size  of  the  hand,  put  in  a  wooden  or  tin  bowl,  and  pressed  for  one-half  hour, 
when  it  is  cut  into  pieces  and  run  through  a  cheese  mill.  It  is  then  salted,  put 
in  a  cloth,  and  again  put  in  the  press,  where  the  pressure  is  gradually  increased. 
The  cheese  is  turned  occasionally  and  a  fresh  dry  cloth  supplied.  After  12 
hours  of  pressing  the  cheese  is  put  into  the  salt  bath,  where  it  is  kept  40  to  4S 
hours.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the  ripening  cellar,  where  it  is  wiped  with  a 
dry  cloth  every  day  for  about  a  week  and  thereafter  twice  a  week,  the  ripening 
requiring  about  4  months.  The  cured  cheese  has  small  eyes:  it  is  made  cylin- 
drical, and  is  4  to  6  inches  in  height  and  10  to  12  inches  in  diameter.  It  weighs 
15  to  25  pounds. 

10415°— Bull.  146—11 3 


34  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

LEICESTER. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  It  is  named  from 
a  county  in  England  where  it  is  made.  It  resembles  the  better  known  Cheshire 
and  Cheddar  in  every  way. 

Evening's  and  morning's  milk  are  mixed  and  set  at  a  temperature  of  from 
76°  to  84°  F.  The  curd  is  allowed  to  set  very  firm,  which  requires  90  minutes. 
It  is  cut  very  carefully  and  allowed  to  settle  20  minutes,  when  the  whey  is 
drawn  off.  The  curd  is  then  gathered  in  a  cloth,  pressed,  and  broken  up  several 
times  until  a  certain  degree  of  dryness  has  been  attained,  and  then  salted 
lightly  and  put  to  press.  Pressure  is  continued  for  5  days,  the  cheese  being 
removed  and  salted  on  the  outside  each  day. 

LEYDEN. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Holland,  where  it  is  known  also  as 
Bergues,  Delft,  Komynde,  Koejekaars,  and  Hobbe.  The  milk,  which  is  either 
partly  or  entirely  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet  at  72°  to  75°  F.  It  is  allowed 
to  stand  for  1  hour,  when  the  curd  is  cut  and  then  stirred  while  being  warmed 
up  to  97°.  The  heating  is  done  by  pouring  hot  whey  over  the  curd.  The  curd 
is  then  dipped  out  with  a  cloth  and  kneaded  by  hand.  Caraway  seed  is  added 
to  a  portion  of  the  curd  which,  in  filling  the  hoops,  constitutes  the  middle  of 
three  layers.  The  cheese  is  then  put  in  press.  It  is  turned  after  3  hours  and 
a  fresh  cloth  applied.  The  pressing  continues  for  24  hours.  Salting  is  done 
on  the  surface  daily.  If  the  rind  becomes  hard  it  is  washed  in  whey  or  water, 
and  occasionally  milk  is  smeared  on  the  surface.  The  surface  is  colored  with 
litmus  in  alkaline  water.  A  ripened  cheese  weighs  about  25  pounds  and  is  12 
inches  in  diameter  and  Si  to  5  inches  in  thickness.  As  seen  on  the  American 
market,  it  has  a  very  dark-brown  surface. 

LIMBURG. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  which  may  contain  all  of 
the  fat  or  be  partly  or  entirely  skimmed.  The  best  Limburg  is  undoubtedly 
made  from  whole  milk.  This  cheese  has  a  very  strong  and  characteristic  odor 
and  taste.     The  cheese  is  about  6  by  6  by  3  inches  and  weighs  about  2  pounds. 

The  most  common  synonyms  of  Limburg  are  Backstein  and  Herve.  There 
are,  however,  many  local  names  for  this  kind  of  cheese,  such  as  Algau,  Lanark, 
Marianhof,  Morin,  St.  Michels,  Schutzen,  Tanzenberg,  Carinthian,  Grottenhof, 
Emmersdorf,  Briol,  and  Lindenhof. 

Limburg  cheese  originated  in  the  Province  of  Liittich,  Belgium,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Herve,  and  was  marketed  in  Limburg,  Belgium.  Its  manufacture 
has  spread  to  Germany  and  Austria,  where  it  is  very  popular,  and  to  the  United 
States,  where  large  quantities  are  made,  mostly  in  New  York  and  Wisconsin. 

Sweet  milk  is  set  without  any  coloring  matter  at  a  temperature  of  from  91° 
to  96°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  about  40  minutes.  In 
foreign  countries  a  kettle  is  used,  but  in  the  United  States  an  ordinary  rectangu- 
lar cheese  vat  is  found  to  be  more  satisfactory.  The  curd  is  cut  or  broken  into 
pieces  about  one-third-inch  cube  and  is  stirred  for  a  short  time  without  addi- 
tional heating.  It  is  then  dipped  into  rectangular  forms  28  inches  long,  5£  inches 
broad,  and  about  8  inches  deep.  These  forms  are  kept  on  a  draining  board, 
where  the  whey  drains  out  freely.  When  the  cheese  has  been  in  the  forms,  with 
frequent  turnings,  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  retain  its  shape  it  is  removed 
to  the  salting  table,  where  the  surface  is  rubbed  with  salt  daily.  When  the 
surface  of  the  cheese  commences  to  get  slippery,  the  cheese  is  put  in  a  ripening 


\  \i;ii  i  ii  >  01     (ii  i  i 
cellar  having  a  temperature  of  about  60  .    White  In  the  cellar  the  surfc 

each   cheese   is   nibbed    thoroughly    :il     frequent    intervals       Ulpeidllg    requires    1    In 

2  months    When  ripe  the  cheese  Ii  wrapped  In  paper,  and  then  In  tin  Coll,  and 

put    ill   boxes,  each  < ■ « » ! 1 1 : i  i 1 1  i 1 1 ir  mIhuiI    .".<•  rlnrM's. 

No  Limburg  is  Imported  Into  thlf  country  at  the  present   time,  eontrarj   to 
the  popular  belief    Thli  type  of  cheeao  is  made  to  cheaply  and  of  such 
quality  In  this  country  thai  the  foreign   make  bat  been  crowded  out   of  the 
market 

LIPTAU. 

This  cheese  Is  made  iu  the  Provinces  of  Llptau,  Saros,  and  Arva,  In  Hungary, 
from  sheep's  milk.  Condiments,  especially  red  pepper,  arc  usually  added,  it  is 
rather  greasy  and  lias  a  sharp  taste.  The  details  of  manufacture  are  the  same 
as  for  Brlnsen  cheese, 

LIVAROT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  more  or  less  skimmed.  It 
derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Livarot   In  the  Department  of  Calvados, 

Prance,  where  the  industry  is  centralized.     This  cheese  lias  the  advantage  over 
Camemberl  made  In  the  same  region  In  that  it   may  be  manufactured  and  con- 
sumed during  the  warm  months. 
The  milk  Is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  95°  to  10*°  1\    After  \\  to 

2  hours  the  curd  is  cut  and  placed  on  a  rush  mat  or  a  cloth  and  allowed  to 
drain  for  about  15  minutes,  during  which  time  it  is  crumbled  as  finely  as 
possible  It  is  then  put  into  tin  hoops  or  forms  G  inches  in  diameter  and  the 
same  in  height.    The  cheeses  are  turned  very  frequently  until  they  become  firm, 

when  they  are  salted  and  left  on  the  draining  hoard  for  4  or  5  days.  At  this 
stage  they  are  sometimes  sold  as  white  cheese,  but  more  often  they  are  trans- 
ferred to  a  well-ventilated  room  for  15  to  20  days  and  then  to  the  curing  cellar, 
which  is  kept  very  tightly  closed.  By  thus  retaining  the  ammonia  and  other 
products  the  cheese  acquires  a  strong,  piquant  taste.  During  ripening  the 
cheeses  are  turned  two  or  three  times  a  week  and  occasionally  wiped  with  a 
cloth  moistened  with  salt  water.  After  ripening  for  10  to  12  days  they  are 
wrapped  with  the  leaves  of  Typha  latifolia,  commonly  called  laiche.  In  3  to  5 
months  they  are  colored  with  annatto  and  marketed. 

LORRAINE. 

This  is  a  small  sour-milk  hand  cheese  made  in  Lorraine.  Germany,  and  regarded 
as  a  delicacy  in  that  country.  It  is  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  pistachio 
nuts,  and  is  eaten  in  a  comparatively  fresh  state.  The  cheeses  are  made  in 
sizes  of  about  2  ounces  and  sell  for  a  very  high  price — at  the  rate  of  about  50 
cents  a  pound. 

LUNEBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  the  small  valleys  of  the  Voralberg  .Mountains  in  the 
western  part  of  Austria.  The  art  of  cheese  making  in  this  locality  was 
imported  from  Switzerland,  and  the  copper  kettle  and  characteristic  presses  are 
used.  Saffron  is  used  for  coloring,  and  the  milk  is  warmed  in  the  copper  kettle 
to  87°  to  90°  F.,  at  which  temperature  the  rennet  is  added,  enough  being  used 
to  coagulate  the  milk  in  20  to  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  into  pieces  the  size 
of  hazelnuts  and  is  cooked  with  stirring  to  a  temperature  of  122°.  The  curd 
is  dipped  into  cloths  which  are  put  into  wooden  forms  and  light  pressure  Is 
applied.    The  curd  remains  in  the  press  for  24  hours,  during  which  time  it  is 


36  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

turned  occasionally  aud  a  dry  cloth  supplied.  The  cheese  is  theu  takeu  to  the 
cellar  and  is  salted  on  the  surface.  In  the  cellar  it  is  rubbed  and  washed 
occasionally.  When  ripe  it  is  said  to  be  about  midway  in  type  between  Enimen- 
tal  and  Limburg. 

MACONNAIS. 

This  is  a  French  goat's-inilk  cheese,  2  inches  square  by  1+  inches  thick. 

MACQUELINE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Camenibert  type,  4  inches  in  diameter  and 
11  inches  thick,  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  in  the  region  of 
Senlis,  in  the  Department  of  Oise.  France.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a 
temperature  of  about  80°  F.  and  allowed  to  stand  for  5  hours,  when  the  curd 
is  put  into  hoops.  After  24  hours  the  hoops  are  removed  and  the  cheese  is 
salted  and  taken  to  the  curing  room,  where  it  remains  for  20  days  or  more.  A 
cheese  weighs  about  one-fourth  of  a  pound  and  requires  about  2  liters  of  milk 
in  its  manufacture.  The  cheese  sells  at  a  lower  price  than  Camembert,  made 
in  the  same  region. 

MAIKASE. 

This  is  a  cheese  resembling  Gouda.  It  is  made  in  Holland  in  the  early  sum- 
mer, is  softer  than  the  regular  Gouda.  and  hence  can  be  marketed  at  an  earlier 
period. 

MAINZ  HAND. 

This  is  a  typical  hand  cheese,  sometimes  called  Pimp.  The  milk  is  treated  in 
the  usual  way,  and  the  curd  after  cooling  is  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand,  the 
thoroughness  of  this  manipulation  influencing  the  quality  of  the  cheese.  The 
curd  is  then  pressed  by  hand  into  flat  cakes  and  allowed  to  dry  for  a  week. 
They  are  then  packed  in  a  jar  or  keg  and  placed  in  a  cellar  for  ripening.  This 
requires  from  6  to  S  weeks. 

MALAKOFF. 

This  is  another  form  of  Xeufchatel  cheese  about  2  inches  in  diameter  and 
one-half  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  It  may  be  consumed  either  while  fresh  or 
after  ripening. 

MANUR. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Servia  from  either  sheep's  or  cow's  milk.  The  milk  is 
first  heated  to  the  boiling  temperature  and  then  cooled  until  the  fingers  can  be 
held  in  it.  A  mixture  of  buttermilk  and  fresh  whey  with  rennet  is  added. 
The  curd  is  lifted  from  the  whey  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  drain,  when  it  is 
kneaded  like  bread,  lightly  salted,  and  dried. 

MAQUEE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  brick-shaped  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Belgium. 
It  is  known  where  made  as  Fromage  Mou. 

MARKISCH  HAND. 

This  cheese  is  similar  to  a  hand  cheese.  The  milk  is  treated  in  the  same 
way  as  in  hand  cheese  up  to  the  salting.  The  curd  is  then  put  in  a  linen  sack 
and  heavy  pressure  is  applied.  The  mass  is  then  cut  into  oblong  pieces  and 
allowed  to  dry  and  cure  as  regular  hand  cheese. 


\  \i:u  i  ii  -   mi    ,  H  M 
MAKOIl.l 

Tbli  Is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Ponl  I'fiveque  type  made  from  whole  or 
partly  skimmed  cow's  milk  In  the  Departments  oi  Aisne  and  Nord,  (Trance. 
There  are  several  kinds,  varying  In  size,  shape,  and  details  of  manufacture,  of 
which  the  Tulle  de  Flandre  and  Larron  see  beat  Known.  The  cheese  as  made 
ai  sfaroilles  is  about  6  Inches  square  and  -  Inches  thick;  that  made  :it  Saint 
Aubln,  5  Inches  square  and  •">  Inches  thick.  The  Larron  Is  about  -1  Inches 
square  and  1 I  Inches  thick,  and  weighs  about  6  ounces,  The  Tulle  <h-  Flandre 
is  about  twice  as  large.  The  Dauphin  is  semilunar  In  shape  and  contains  herbs, 
a  pear-shaped  form  designated  Boulette  may  be  made  In  part  from  buttermilk. 

The  beat  cheese  is  made  from  fresh  whole  milk,  although  the  most  of  it  is 

made  from  milk  partly  OF  entirely  skimmed.  The  temperature  of  setting  with 
rennet  is  abOUl  75°  V.  and  tiie  time  allowed  from  1  to  1  hours.  The  CUTd  Is 
drained  for  i  to  L(  hours  in  a  box  having  a  perforated  bottom,  and  is  then  put 
into  square  forms  or  hoops  5  to  6  Inches  on  a  side  ami  :\  to  1  inches  high. 
The  Cheese  is  turned  frequently  until  Qrm  and  then  salted  on  all  six  faces  and 
taken  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  is  washed  frequently  with  salt  water  to 
prevent  the  growth  of  molds.  Ripening  requires  •".  to  5  months.  Defective 
cheeses  are  said  to  he  common. 

MASCARPONE. 

This  is  an  Italian  cream  cheese  about  2  inches  in  diameter  and  2$  inches  in 
height.  The  cream  is  heated  to  about  194°  F.  and  dilute  acetic  or  tartaric  acid 
is  added.     The  mixture  is  stirred  and  drained  through  cloth  and  then  put  into 

molds.      It    is  eaten   in  a    fresh  condition. 

MECKLENBURG  SKIM. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  and  named  from  the  province  in 
which  it  is  made.  The  milk  is  placed  in  a  copper  kettle  and  warmed  with  steam. 
Saffron  is  added  for  coloring  and  sufficient  rennet  is  used  to  coagulate  the  milk 
In  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  into  particles  the  size  of  peas.  The  tem- 
perature is  raised  to  92°  F.  in  12  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  removed  from  the 
kettle  by  means  of  a  cloth  and  put  into  a  hoop  and  pressure  applied.  This  is 
Increased  gradually  until  it  reaches  fifteen  times  the  weight  of  the  cheese  in  24 
hours.  The  cheese  is  then  placed  in  a  drying  room  held  at  70°  until  a  rind  is 
formed.  As  much  salt  is  then  sprinkled  on  the  surface  as  can  be  absorbed.  In 
the  meanwhile  the  cheese  is  taken  from  the  drying  room  and  placed  in  the  reg- 
ular curing  room,  which  has  a  temperature  of  GO0  and  a  relative  humidity  of 
85'  to  95  per  cent. 

MIGNOT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  either  cylindrical  or  cubical  in  form.  It  has  been 
made  in  the'  Department  of  Calvados,  France,  for  over  100  years  and 
resembles  Pont  l*Fveque  and  Livarot.  There  are  two  types  of  this  cheese; 
designated  white  and  passe;  the  first,  a  fresh  cheese.  Is  made  during  the  period 
from  April  to  September,  and  the  second,  a  ripened  cheese,  is  made  during  the 
remainder  of  the  year. 

MONTASIO. 

This  cheese  originated  in  the  part  of  Carinthia,  in  Austria,  called  Friaul, 
where  the  annual  product  is  now  valued  at  $(500,000.  At  the  present  time  it  is 
made  not  only  in  Carinthia  but  in  the  neighboring  provinces  and  in  Italy. 


38  VAKIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

The  milk,  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed,  and  consisting  usually  of  a  mix- 
ture of  cow's  and  goat's  milk,  is  heated  in  a  kettle  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient  ren- 
net is  added  to  coagulate  it  in  30  to  40  minutes.  It  is  then  cut  very  carefully 
to  the  size  of  peas  and  heated  gradually  to  a  temperature  of  120°.  When  the 
desired  temperature  is  reached,  which  is  usually  in  about  one-half  hour,  heat- 
ing is  stopped  and  the  stirring  continued  for  30  to  40  minutes.  Some  of  the 
whey  is  dipped  from  the  kettle  and  the  curd  is  removed  by  means  of  a  cloth. 
The  cheese  is  pressed  for  24  hours,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  frequently. 
The  salting  requires  usually  about  one  month,  the  total  amount  applied  varying 
from  2i  to  3  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  pressed  cheese.  After  salting,  the 
cheese  is  taken  to  a  well-ventilated  room  and  allowed  to  dry.  In  this  room  the 
cheese  is  turned  frequently  and  rubbed  in  order  to  free  it  from  molds.  When 
dry  it  is  scraped  carefully  and  taken  to  the  curing  cellar.  The  cheese  is  here 
rubbed  frequently  with  a  coarse  cloth,  and  when  the  rind  has  become  firm  and 
does  not  show  the  presence  of  mold,  olive  oil  is  usually  applied.  Sometimes  the 
rind  is  colored  black  by  means  of  soot. 

The  fresh  cheese  is  almost  white.  The  old  cheese  becomes  yellow,  granular, 
and  has  a  sharp  taste  and  characteristic  odor.  It  is  usually  eaten  when  3  to 
12  months  of  age,  but  may  be  kept  much  longer  and  then  grated. 

MONTAVONER. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Austria.  During  the  process  of  manufac- 
ture dried  herbs  (Achillea  moschata  and  A.  atrata)  are  added. 

MONT  CENIS. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  resembling  the  imitation  Roquefort  varieties  like 
Gex  and  Septmoncel  and  made  in  the  region  of  Mont  Cenis,  in  the  southeastern 
part  of  France.  The  milk  used  is  usually  a  mixture  of  cow's,  sheep's,  and 
goat's.  The  evening's  milk  is  usually  skimmed  and  added  to  that  of  the  morn- 
ing. Primitive  methods  of  cheese  making  are  employed.  The  milk  is  set  with 
rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.  The  curd  is  then  cut  and  allowed  to 
drain  for  24  hours,  when  fresh  curd  is  thoroughly  mixed  with  it.  The  mixture 
is  then  put  into  molds  and  moderate  pressure  applied.  After  turning  frequently 
for  several  days,  and  salting,  it  is  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  is 
turned  frequently,  washed  with  salt  water  to  check  the  growth  of  molds  on  the 
surface,  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  3  to  4  months.  The  ripening  is  due  mainly  to 
a  penicillium  which  is  sometimes  incorporated  in  the  curd  by  means  of  moldy 
bread.  A  ripened  cheese  is  about  18  inches  in  diameter,  6  to  8  inches  in  height, 
and  weighs  about  25  pounds. 

MONT  D'OR. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Pont  l'Eveque  type,  formerly  made  from 
goat's  milk  but  now  made  almost  exclusively  from  cow's  milk.  Sometimes  a 
small  amount  of  goat's  milk  is  added  to  the  cow's  milk. 

It  derives  its  name  from  Mont  d'Or,  near  Lyon,  in  the  Department  of  Rhone, 
France,  where  it  is  said  to  have  been  made  for  over  three  centuries  At  the 
present  time  it  is  made  not  only  in  Rhone  and  neighboring  Departments  but 
in  the  other  parts  of  France,  especially  Eure  and  Oise. 

Whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  90° 
to  100°  F.  The  curd,  in  from  one-half  hour  to  2  hours  after  the  addition  of 
the  rennet  to  the  milk  and  with  or  without  cutting,  is  put  into  circular  forms 
or  hoops  about  4*  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  high.     These  rest  upon  a 


v\i;n  i  ii  8   "i     ,  iiu.M.. 

draining  board  covered  frith  straw.  After  about  i  hour  tin*  cheesv  is  iuiimhi, 
and  frequently  thereafter  until  firm,  a  disk  with  i  light  weight  is  ■ometimei 
placed  upon  each  cheese  In  order  to  hasten  the  removal  of  the  whey.  The 
cheese  la  salted  on  the  surface  Much  of  it  la  sold  In  i  fresh  condition,  n  is 
ais.»  ripened  for  about  one  week  in  rommer  and  2  to  8  week!  In  winter,  during 
which  time  it  is  turned  frequently  and  washed  with  salt  water  to  prevent  the 
growth  of  molds. 

MONTHLERY. 

This  Is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  row's  milk  m  Seine-et-Olse,  Prance. 
A  large  cheese  is  about  2  Inches  thick  and  1 1  inches  in  diameter  and  weighs 

about  .v.  pounds  There  is  also  a  smaller  si/e.i  cheese  which  weighs  about  '■'> 
pounds,  lather  whole  milk  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  used.  Etennel  Is  added 
e  milk  at  ordinary  temperatures,  ami  the  curd  when  sufficiently  Arm  is 
broken  up,  put  Into  molds,  and  subjected  to  pressure.  After  salting  the  cheese 
is  cured  for  s  to  LB  days  In  a  so-called  drying  room  and  then  ripened  In  a 
cellar  at  a  temperature  of  about  55°  F.  During  ripening  the  cheese  becomes 
covered  at  first  with  a  whitish  mold  and  later  with  a  blue  mold  In  which  red 
spots  appear,     it  is  ready  for  sale  at  the  end  of  about  1  month. 

MOZARINELLI. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Italy. 

MUNSTER. 

Miinsrer  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk  in  the  western 
pan  of  Germany,  near  the  Vosges  Mountains,  and  named  from  the  city  of 
Minister,  near  which  it  is  made.  Similar  cheese  made  in  the  neighboring  por- 
tion of  France  is  called  Gerorne,  and  Minister  cheese  made  near  Colmar  and 
Strassburg  is  sometimes  given  the  names  of  these  two  cities. 

The  milk  is  set  at  about  !)0°  P.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  30 
minutes.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  allowed  to  stand  for  30  to  45  minutes 
without  stirring,  when  it  is  dipped  with  a  sieve  which  holds  back  the  small 
particles  of  curd  and  gives  a  slight  pressure  to  the  curd.  After  removing  the 
whey  the  curd  is  scooped  into  forms  or  hoops  and  caraway  or  anise  seed  is 
usually  added.  The  hoops  are  made  in  two  parts,  the  lower  of  which  is  4 
Inches  high  and  7  inches  in  diameter  with  holes  in  the  bottom  foi  draining,  and 
the  upper  of  which  is  of  the  same  dimensions.  The  whole  resembles  an  ordi- 
nary cheese  hoop  with  bandages.  The  hoop  is  lined  with  cheese  cloth.  After 
the  curd  has  been  in  the  hoop  for  12  hours  the  upper  part  of  the  hoop  can  be 
removed.  The  cheese  is  turned  and  the  cloth  removed.  The  cheese  is  now  put 
in  the  upper  portion  of  the  hoop  and  turned  frequently  for  4  to  0  days.  The 
temperature  is  held  in  the  meanwhile  at  68°.  After  salt  has  been  rubbed  on 
the  surface  daily  for  3  days  the  cheese  is  taken  to  the  cellar,  which  has  a  tem- 
perature of  51°  to  55°,  where  it  is  allowed  to  ripen  for  2  to  3  months.  The 
cheese  sells  for  about  15  cents  a  pound  when  ripe. 

MYSOST. 

Mysost  is  made  from  whey  and  is  a  product  of  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark, 
and  to  a  very  limited  extent  of  the  United  States.  It  has  a  light-brown  color,  a 
buttery  consistency,  and  a  mild,  swreetish  taste. 

The  method  of  manufacture  is  as  follows :  As  soon  as  the  curd  of  the  regular 
cheese  is  removed  from  the  whey,  the  whey  is  strained  and  is  put  in  a  kettle  or 
large  pan  over  the  fire  and  the  albuminous  material  which  rises  to  the  surface 


40  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

is  skimmed  off.  The  whey  is  evaporated  as  rapidly  as  possible  with  constant 
and  thorough  stirring.  When  it  has  reached  about  one-fourth  its  original 
volume  the  albumin  previously  skimmed  off  is  returned  and  stirred  thoroughly 
to  break  up  all  possible  lumps.  When  the  whey  has  attained  the  consistency  of 
thickened  milk  it  is  poured  quickly  into  a  wooden  trough  and  stirred  with  a 
paddle  until  cool  to  prevent  the  formation  of  sugar  crystals.  This  can  then  be 
molded  into  the  desired  form.  In  this  country  it  is  usually  made  into  cylin- 
drical shapes  and  wrapped  in  tin  foil.     Prumost  is  a  local  name  for  this  cheese. 

NESSEL. 

This  is  a  soft-cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  It  is  an 
English  product  and  is  made  round  and  very  thin. 

NEUFCHATEL. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  extensively  in  the  Department  of  Seine- 
Inferieure,  France,  from  cow's  milk  either  whole  or  skimmed.  Bondon,  Mala- 
koff,  Petit  Carre,  and  Petit  Suisse  are  essentially  the  same  as  Neufchatel,  but 
have  slightly  different  shapes. 

The  milk,  preferably  fresh,  is  set  at  85°  F.  with  only  so  much  rennet  as  is 
necessary  to  secure  the  desired  coagulation  in  24  hours  in  summer  and  from 
36  to  48  hours  in  winter.  The  curd  is  then  inclosed  in  cheese  cloth  and  drained 
for  12  hours,  after  which  it  is  subjected  to  pressure  for  another  period  of  12 
hours.  It  is  then  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand  or,  in  the  larger  factories,  by 
means  of  a  curd,  mill  and  pressed  into  thin  cylinders  about  2  inches  in  diameter 
and  3  inches  high.  The  cheeses  are  removed  soon  from  the  molds,  salted,  and 
replaced.  After  draining  for  24  hours  they  are  transferred  to  the  so-called  dry- 
ing room,  where  they  become  covered  with  white  and  later  with  blue  molds. 
They  are  then  taken  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  the  ripening  process  is  con- 
tinued for  3  to  4  weeks.  The  appearance  of  red  spots  on  the  surface  is  taken 
as  an  indication  that  the  ripening  has  progressed  far  enough.  The  cheeses  are 
then  wrapped  in  tin  foil  and  marketed. 

An  imitation  of  the  Neufchatel  cheese  is  made  in  the  United  States  which  is 
very  probably  as  good  as  the  French  variety.  Makers  in  this  country  have 
attempted  to  vary  this  cheese  by  the  use  of  condiments.  Pimento,  or  Pepper 
Cream,  is  a  Neufchatel  cheese  in  which  1  pound  of  red  peppers  is  used  for 
every  10  pounds  of  cheese.  The  peppers  are  ground  very  fine  and  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  cheese;  the  whole  is  then  molded  into  forms  and  kept  in  a 
cold  place. 

NEW  MILK. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Holland.  The  process  of  manufacture  resembles  that 
of  Gouda  cheese.  It  is  made  only  in  limited  quantities  at  the  beginning  of  the 
summer  season  and  is  eaten  fresh. 

NIEHEIM. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Westphalia  and  named  from  a  city  in  that 
province.  The  sour  milk  is  heated  to  a  temperature  of  100°  to  120°  F.  The 
curd  is  collected  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours,  when  it  is  worked 
until  in  a  fine  condition.  The  curd  is  made  up  iuto  cakes  which  are  put  into  a 
cellar  and  turned  frequently  for  5  to  8  days.  It  is  then  broken  up,  and  salt  and 
caraway  seed,  and  sometimes  beer  or  milk,  are  added.  The  cheese  is  covered 
lightly  with  straw  and  finally  packed  in  casks  with  hops  and  allowed  to  ripen. 


\  \i;n   i  ii  E    "i     I  ii  l.i  II 

This  name  is  applied  locally  to  two  kinds  of  rennet  cheese  made  from  o 
milk  in  the  mountalnoni  of  Dorthweatern  Italy.    The  bard  cbi 

Ignated  Formagglo  Duro,  la  made  during  tin-  spring  irhlle  the  berd 
in  the  valleys,  and  the  soft  cheese,  Formaggio  Tenero,  during  the  summer  frheu 
they  :nv  pastured  In  the  mountains    The  cheese  Is  ssld  to  be  ;i  verj  old  varietj 
and  tin'  methods  of  manufacture  i<>  have  remained  primitive.    A  che 
oated   Raschera,   made  to   the  region  of  Mondovi,   is  probably   the  sun  i 
Kostrale. 

OLIVET. 

This  is  a  Bofl  rennet  cheese  made  From  cow's  milk.  The  manufacture  of  this 
variety  originated  south  of  Orleans,  In  the  Department  of  Loiret,  France.  The 
industry  is  now  carried  on  north  of  Orleans  near  Olivet,  to  which  place  the 
cheese  doubtless  owes  its  name  There  are  three  forms  of  this  cheese,  desig- 
nated white  or  Bummer  cheese,  blue  or  the  ordinary  half-ripened  form,  and 
ripened.  In  general  the  process  of  manufacture  resembles  that  of  Camembert 
The  ordinary  form  is  made  from  either  whole  milk  or  partly  skimmed  milk. 
About  2  hours  after  the  addition  of  rennet  the  curd  is  placed  in  a  receptacle 
having  holes  in  the  bottom  and  sides  and  allowed  to  drain  for  24  hours,  when 
it  is  put  into  forms  about  '">  Inches  in  diameter.  The  cheese  is  turned  and 
salted  the  next  day.  and  about  1  day  later  is  taken  to  the  first  curing  room. 
where  it  is  placed  on  shelves  covered  with  straw.  This  room  is  kept  at  a  tem- 
perature of  about  br>°  F.  Here  the  cheese  becomes  red  in  a  few  days  and  later 
blue.  The  blue  color  is  a  sign  of  maturity,  and  its  appearance  requires  from  10 
to  15  days  in  summer  and  I  month  in  winter.  The  cheese  is  then  ready  for 
marketing.  When  properly  cared  for  it  may  remain  iu  good  condition  for  sev- 
eral months.  The  form  designated  ripened  is  made  in  the  same  way  until  the 
blue  color  appears,  when  the  cheese  is  put  into  the  curing  cellar,  where  ripening 
is  carried  to  a  much  further  extent.  Ordinarily  this  requires  from  15  to  30 
days,  but  the  cheese  is  here  sometimes  covered  with  ashes,  which  are  believed 
to  hasten  the  ripening  process.  The  form  designated  white  or  summer  cheese 
is  made  from  whole  milk,  to  which  cream  is  sometimes  added.  The  curd  is 
obtained  in  the  ordinary  manner  and  pressed  into  molds,  in  which  it  is  sold 
as  fresh  cheese,  summer  cheese,  white  cheese,  or  cream  cheese. 

OLMUTZER  QUARGEL. 

This  is  a  hand  cheese  made  extensively  in  the  western  part  of  Austria.  It 
is  1*  inches  in  diameter  and  one-third  of  an  Inch  thick  and  contains  caraway 
seed.  It  is  made  with  5  per  cent  of  salt  and  after  drying  is  put  in  salt  whey 
for  a  time.  It  is  then  packed  in  kegs  and  ripened  for  8  to  1<>  weeks  In  all 
other  respects  the  manufacture  is  identical  with  that  of  hand  ch< 

PAGLIA. 

This  is  a  more  or  less  successful  imitation  of  Qorgonzola  cheese,  made  in  the 
Canton  of  Ticino,  Switzerland.  A  cheese  is  8  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  in 
thickness.  The  milk  is  set  at  a  temperature  of  100°  F..  the  time  allowed  being 
about  15  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up,  stirred,  and  put  into  hoops.  When 
sufficiently  drained  the  cheese  is  taken  to  a  cool  cellar  and  placed  on  straw, 
where  fermentation  is  usually  very  rapid  and  marked.  The  process  is  delayed 
to  some  extent  by  excessive  salting,  which  is  continued  for  about  1  month. 
The  cheese  is  very  soft  in  consistency  and  has  a  pleasant  aromatic  flavor. 


42  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

PAGO. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  the  island  of  Pago,  in  the 
Province  of  Dalmatia,  Austria.  It  is  put  up  in  sizes  weighing  from  one-half  to 
8  pounds. 

PARMESAN. 

This  name  is  in  common  use  outside  of  Italy  for  the  cheese  made  and  known 
in  that  country  for  centuries  as  Grana,  the  term  "  grana  "  or  "  granona  "  referring 
to  the  granular  appearance  of  the  cheese  when  broken,  as  is  necessary  on  account 
of  the  hardness  of  the  cheese,  which  makes  cutting  practically  impossible. 
There  are  two  quite  distinct  kinds  of  this  cheese,  one  made  in  Lombardy  and  the 
other  in  Emilia,  the  centers  of  production  being  separated  by  the  River  Po. 
Parma,  situated  in  Emilia,  has  long  been  an  important  commercial  center  for 
both  kinds,  and  to  this  fact  the  name  Parmesan  is  due.  The  use  of  the  term 
"  Parmesan,"  however,  is  sometimes  restricted  to  the  cheese  made  in  Lombardy, 
the  term  "  Reggian  "  being  used  to  designate  that  made  in  Emilia.  Italian  writers 
refer  usually  to  the  Lombardy  cheese  as  Cacio  or  Formaggio  Grana  Lodigiano, 
Lodi  being  an  important  center  of  trade,  and  to  the  Emilian  cheese  as  Grana 
Parmigiano  or  Reggiano.  The  Lodi  cheese  is  larger  and  made  from  a  poorer 
quality  of  milk  than  the  Reggian.  The  latter  is  colored  and  brings  a  much 
higher  price.  The  following  description  of  the  process  of  manufacture  applies 
equally  well  to  both  kinds: 

The  milk,  which  has  been  skimmed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  is  heated  in 
copper  kettles  to  a  temperature  varying,  according  to  the  acidity  of  the  milk, 
from  90°  to  100°  F.  The  kettle  is  then  removed  from  the  fire,  rennet  added, 
and  the  kettle  covered  and  allowed  to  stand  for  20  minutes  to  1  hour,  when  the 
curd  is  cut  very  fine  and  cooked,  with  stirring,  to  115°  to  125°  F.  for  15  to  45 
minutes.  The  curd  is  removed  from  the  kettle  by  means  of  a  cloth  and  after 
draining  for  a  short  time  is  put  into  hoops.  These  are  about  10  inches  high  and 
IS  inches  or  more  in  diameter  and  are  lined  with  coarse  cloth  before  filling. 
Pressure  is  then  applied  for  24  hours,  the  cheese  being  turned  frequently  and 
the  cloths  changed.  The  salting,  which  is  begun  in  1  to  3  days  after  remov- 
ing from  the  press,  is  continued  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  often  40 
clays.  The  cheeses  are  then  transferred  to  a  cool,  well-ventilated  room,  where 
they  may  be  stored  for  years,  the  surface  being  rubbed  with  oil  from  time  to 
time.  The  exterior  of  the  cheese  is  dark  green  or  black,  due  to  coloring  matter 
rubbed  on  the  surface.  A  greenish  color  in  the  interior  has  been  attributed  to 
the  contamination  with  copper  from  the  vessels  in  which  .the  milk  is  allowed  to 
stand  before  skimming. 

The  Lombardy  cheese  made  from  April  to  September  is  known  locally  as  Sorte 
Maggenga  and  that  from  October  to  March  as  Sorte  Vermenga.  The  Reggian 
cheese  is  made  only  in  summer. 

Parmesan  cheese  when  well  made  may  be  broken  and  grated  easily  and  may 
be  kept  for  an  indefinite  number  of  years.  It  is  grated  and  used  largely  for 
soups  and  with  macaroni.  A  considerable  quantity  of  this  cheese  is  imported 
into  this  country  and  sells  for  a  very  high  price. 

PECORINO. 

The  Formaggio  Pecorini  are  the  sheep's-milk  cheeses  made  in  Italy  and  of 
which  there  are  numerous  more  or  less  clearly  defined  kinds.  The  most  com- 
mon cheese  of  this  sort  is  the  one  designated  Cacio  Pecorino  Romano,  or 
merely  Romano.    This  varies  considerably  4n  size  and  shape.    The  weight  may 


v\i:ii  i  I  8 

•  •  from  2  to  25  pounds     a  che<  iboul   LO  Incl  • 

diameter  and  n  inches  in  thickness.    Tin-  interior  Is  sllgbtlj   greenish  la 
Bomewhal  granular,  and  devoid  or  holes,     in  making  Etomai 

the  milk  is  heated  to  100    i    and  coagulated  bj  re -t  lu  15  minutes.    The  curd 

is  cut,  cooked  to  120  .  stirred,  and  put  Into  formi  and  allowed  to  drain.    Ball 
Ing  is  done  i"»iii  by  Immersion  In  brine  and  i»\  rubbing  sail  '>n  the  mi  I 
in ui-li  as  T  to  s  per  cent  of  s;iii  is  usually  Incorporated  In  the  course  of  one 
month.    This  process  Is  sometimes  facilitated  by  punching  several  boles  In  the 
cheese.    Ripening  la  usually  done  at  a  temperature  of  80    to  To    and  requ 
months  or  longer. 

Thf  Pecorlno  Dolce  is  artificially  colored  with  annatto  and  subjected  to  con- 
siderable pressure  In  the  process  of  manufacture. 

Pecorlno  Tuscano  is  a  smaller  cheese  than  the  Romano,  measuring  usually  6 
Inches  in  diameter  and  2  to  »  inches  in  thickness  and  weighing  2  to  •"»  poon 

Among  the  sheep's-milk  cheeses  bearing  local  names  arc  the  following:  An- 
emia. Cotrone,  [gleslas,  Leonessa,  Puglia,  and  Vlterbo.  in  the  manufacture  of 
Viterbo  cheese  the  milk  is  curdled  by  means  of  a  wild  artichoke,  Cynara 
scolytnus. 

PFISTER. 

This  cheese  is  classed  in  the  Kinmental  group,  though  its  method  of  manu- 
facture differs  materially.     It  is  made  from  fresh  skimmed  cow's  milk.     It  takes 

its  name  from  Pfister  Iluber,  in  Cham,  Switzerland,  who  evidently  was  the  first 
to  manufacture  it. 

The  milk  is  set  at  S5°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  IJO  minutes. 
The  curd  is  cut  coarse  and  allowed  to  stand  for  ir>  minutes  when  the  whey  is 
dipped  off.  The  curd  is  again  stirred  for  5  minutes,  care  being  taken  that  the 
temperature  does  not  fall  below  the  setting  point.  The  curd  is  again  allowed 
to  stand  for  5  minutes,  when  it  is  taken  from  the  kettle  in  a  cloth  and  put  in  ;i 
hoop,  where  it  is  pressed  for  24  hours,  being  turned  occasionally  and  dry  cloths 
substituted.  The  cheese  is  transferred  from  the  press  to  the  salt  bath,  where 
it  remains  for  3  days.  It  is  then  taken  to  a  moist  room  having  a  temperature 
of  S5°.  Here  it  is  placed  on  shelves  and  turned  and  salted  occasionally.  The 
cheese  is  ready  for  market  at  about  »'»  weeks  of  age.  It  is  drum-Shaped,  like  a 
characteristic  Enunental.  but  not  so  large,  weighing  about  50  pounds. 

PHILADELPHIA  CREAM. 

This  is  an  ordinary  cream  cheese  put  tip  by  a  firm  in  New  York  State.  It  is 
3  by  2*  by  1]  inches  in  size  and  is  wrapped  in  parchment  paper  and  tin  foil. 

PINEAPPLE. 

This  cheese,  which  is  said  to  have  had  its  origin  in  Litchfield  County.  Conn., 
about  1845,  is  so  named  from  the  fruit  of  that  name  which  the  cheese  is  made  to 
resemble  in  shape.  It  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  The 
cheese  is  quite  hard  and  is  rather  highly  colored.  The  early  process  of  manu- 
facture is  the  same  as  with  Cheddar,  except  that  it  is  cooked  much  harder.  The 
curd  is  pressed  in  the  desired  shape  in  various  sizes  up  to  0  pounds  in  weight. 
After  pressing,  the  cheese  is  dipped  for  a  few  minutes  in  water  at  120°  F.  and 
is  then  put  in  a  net  for  24  hours,  which  gives  it  the  diamond-shaped  corruga- 
tions on  the  surface.  It  requires  several  months  to  ripen,  and  during  this 
time  the  surface  is  rubbed  with  oil,  which  makes  it  ver-v  smooth  and  hard. 


44  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

PONT   L'EVEQUE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  Three  grades  are  recog- 
nized, depending  upon  the  quality  of  the  milk  used.  A  Pont  l'Eveque  cheese 
is  about  4£  inches  square  and  1J  inches  thick. 

This  cheese  was  made  in  the  thirteenth  century  in  the  valley  of  Auge,  from 
which  it  derived  its  earlier  name  Augelot,  and  by  corruption  Angelot.  The 
principal  seat  of  the  industry  at  the  present  time  is  Pont  l'Eveque  and  vicinity, 
in  the  Department  of  Calvados,  France.  The  manufacture  of  this  cheese  is  of 
considerable  importance  in  the  region  designated.  The  milk  used  may  be  either 
whole  milk  with  or  without  the  addition  of  cream,  a  mixture  of  whole  and 
skimmed  milk,  or  milk  entirely  skimmed. 

Coloring  matter  and  warm  or  hot  water  are  usually  added  to  the  milk  before 
setting  with  rennet,  which  is  done  at  a  temperature  of  about  95°  F.  After 
standing  for  15  to  30  minutes  the  curd  is  cut,  removed  to  a  draining  board 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  put  into  square  forms  or  hoops.  The  cheese  is 
turned  very  frequently  during  the  first  half  hour  and  five  or  six  times  more 
during  the  remainder  of  the  first  day.  It  is  salted  the  second  or  third  day 
and  transferred  to  a  well-ventilated  room  for  several  days.  When  sufficiently 
dried  it  is  taken  to  the  curing  cellar.  During  drying  and  ripening  the  cheeses 
are  turned  every  day  and  while  in  the  cellar  are  washed  frequently  with  salt 
water.    Ripening  requires  usually  from  3  to  6  weeks. 

PORT  DU  SALUT. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  In  many  respects  it  is  inter- 
mediate between  the  soft  and  hard  varieties.  The  rind  is  firm  and  resistant 
but  the  interior  is  soft  and  homogenous,  though  it  does  not  become  semiliquid 
like  the  interior  of  Brie  cheese.  This  variety  of  cheese  originated  about  1865 
in  the  Trappist  Abbey,  Port  du  Salut,  situated  about  6  miles  from  Laval,  in  the 
Department  of  Mayenne,  France.  While  the  process  is  to  some  extent  kept  a 
secret  by  the  Trappists,  very  successful  imitations  are  made  outside  of  the 
monasteries  in  this  region. 

The  milk,  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed  and  preferably  slightly  acid,  is 
heated  to  90°  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient  rennet  added  in  order  to  secure  the  de- 
sired firmness  of  the  curd  in  about  30  minutes.  Coloring  matter  is  usually 
added  to  the  milk.  The  curd  is  cut  very  fine  and  in  a  manner  similar  to  that 
followed  in  making  Emmental  cheese.  This  requires  about  20  minutes.  A 
part  of  the  whey  may  then  be  removed.  The  curd  is  then  stirred  and  may  be 
heated  or  cooked  to  a  moderate  degree.  The  final  temperature  reached  in 
cooking  varies  from  100°  to  105°,  depending  upon  the  acidity  of  the  milk.  The 
time  required  in  stirring  and  heating  is  about  20  mmutes.  The  curd  is  then 
allowed  to  settle  and  the  whey  removed.  After  being  stirred  vigorously  for 
two  to  four  minutes,  the  curd  is  put  into  molds  which  are  of  two  sizes,  the 
smaller  about  7  inches  in  diameter  and  the  larger  about  10  inches.  A  disk 
is  placed  on  the  cheese  and  pressure  applied  by  means  of  presses  for  10  to  12 
hours,  the  cheese  being  turned  and  the  cloths  frequently  changed  during  this 
time.  The  next  day  the  hoops  are  removed  and  the  cheese  salted.  After  drying 
for  about  24  hours,  it  is  transferred  to  the  ripening  cellar,  where  it  remains 
from  5  to  6  weeks.  In  this  place  a  temperature  of  about  55°  and  a  relative 
humidity  of  85°  to  90°  is  preferred.  During  ripening  the  cheeses  are  turned 
very  frequently  and  washed  with  salt  water,  the  frequency  depending  some- 
what upon  the  rapidity  with  which  molds  develop.  The  cheese  is  often  sold 
before  the  ripening  process  is  entirely  complete. 


\   Mill.  I  II  >    "|      (III   I  SI ..  I  .» 

POTATO. 

Thts<  heeee  Is  made  iuThuringia,  In  the  central  pari  of  Germany  •  in  tbemanu* 
fact u re  of  potato  cheese,  curd  Is  made  from  aour  cow's  milk,  or  In  tome  i 
from  renneted  milk.  Sometimes  aheap1!  or  goat's  milk  Is  Died.  The  potatoes 
are  boiled  and  grated  or  mashed.  One  part  ot  the  potatoes  is  thoroughlj  mixed 
or  kneaded  with  two  or  three  parts  ft"  tin*  nmi.  in  t in*  in*i i«t  <hee>e  tin-'- 
parts  of  potatoes  Is  mixed  with  two  parts  of  cord  During  the  mixing  sail  Is 
added,  and  sometimes  carawaj  seed  The  cheese  is  allowed  to  stand  tor  2  to  t 
days  while  s  fermentation  takes  place.  After  this  the  card  is  again  thoroughly 
kneaded  and  placed  In  forms  for  a  day.  it  is  then  dried  and  is  sometimes 
coTered  with  beer  or  cream,  it  is  Anally  placed  In  tabs  and  allowed  to  ripen 
for  1 1  da\  a 

a  variety  of  this  cheese  is  made  in  the  United  states,  it  is  probable,  how- 
ever, thai  this  is  not  allowed  to  ripen  for  quite  so  long  a  period  as  the  European 
potato  cheese.     In  all  other  essentials  it  appears  to  he  identically  the  same. 

POTTED. 

This  cheese  is  very  likely  of  domestic  origin.  It  is  usually  prepared  from 
well-ripened  Cheddar  cheese  by  grinding  it  very  fine  and  mixing  with  batter, 
condiments,  spirits,  etc.  In  the  past  this  has  been  put  up  iu  small  porcelain 
jars,  but  at  the  present  time  a  portion  of  it  is  wrapped  in  waxed  paper  and 
either  tin  or  lead  foil.    This  ordinarily  goes  by  the  name  of  Club  cheese. 

PRATTIGAU. 

This  is  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk  and  is  so  named  from  the  valley  of 
Switzerland  in  which  it  is  made.  Its  manufacture  is  the  same  as  that  of  Lim- 
hurg.     Cheeses  weigh  from  20  to  25  pounds. 

PRESTOST. 

I'rcstost  is  a  product  of  Sweden,  where  it  is  often  called  Saaland  Pfarr.  It 
is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  fresh  cow's  milk  and  resembles  Gouda.  It  wai 
known  in  the  eighteenth  century.  The  milk  is  set  at  90°  F.  and  is  allowed  to 
become  very  firm,  when  it  is  cut  coarse  with  a  wooden  knife  and  poured  iuto 
a  sieve,  which  allows  the  whey  to  drain  off.  The  curd  is  thou  pnt  into  a  cloth 
and  kneaded.  Whisky  is  mixed  with  the  curd,  which  is  then  packed  in  a  basket, 
and  after  some  salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface  it  is  put  iuto  the  cellar.  The 
cloth  inclosing  the  cheese  is  changed  daily  for  3  days,  after  which  the  cheese  is 
washed  with  whisky.  A  cheese  is  cylindrical  in  shape  and  weighs  5  to  30 
pounds. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This  cheese  is  ahoout  8  inches  in  diametei  and  lj  inches  thick,  and  very 
closely  resembles  Port  do  Saint.  It  is  made  in  the  monastery  of  Bricquebec  in 
the  Department  of  Manche.  France. 

PROVOLE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  esteemed  of  the  several  kinds  of  hard  rennet  cheese 
made  in  central  and  southern  Italy  from  cow's  milk,  including  also  that  of  buf- 
faloes.   The  cheese  is  round  or  oval  and  weighs  from  4  to  G  pounds.    Smaller 


46  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

sizes  weighing  about  2  pounds  are  known  as  Provoloni.  In  niauy  respects,  in- 
cluding the  cooking  of  the  curd  with  hot  water  and  the  smoking  of  the  cheese, 
Provole  and  Provoloni  resemble  Caciocavallo.  Considerable  amounts  of  this 
cheese  are  imported  into  the  United  States. 

PULTOST. 

Pultost.  also  called  Knaost.  is  made  usually  from  sour  milk,  but  it  may  be 
made  with  rennet.  It  is  a  Norwegian  product  and  is  made  in  private  dairies  in 
the  mountains  of  that  country.  The  milk  is  placed  in  a  kettle  and  if  not  sour 
enough  to  coagulate  on  warming  the  acidity  is  increased  by  the  addition  of 
buttermilk.  When  sufficient  acid  has  developed  the  milk  is  warmed  to  113°  F. 
The  curd  is  broken  up  with  a  scoop  and  stirred  to  keep  it  from  matting  together 
while  it  is  being  heated  to  140°.  It  is  then  dipped  and  ground  up  fine.  Butter- 
milk is  added  and  the  whole  is  thoroughly  kneaded  and  put  into  troughs,  where 
it  is  covered  with  a  cloth.  It  is  allowed  to  stand  for  three  days  with  occasional 
stirring. 

QUESO  DE  CINCHO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Venezuela  and  known  also  as  Queso  de 
Palina  Metida.  It  is  exported  in  the  form  of  balls  S  to  16  inches  in  diameter 
and  wrapped  in  palm  leaves. 

QUESO  DE  HOJA. 

This  is  a  Porto  Rican  cheese  made  from  fresh  cow's  milk.  The  curd  is  cut 
into  blocks  about  6  inches  square  and  2  inches  thick.  After  part  of  the  whey 
is  drained  off.  which  may  require  several  hours,  the  pieces  of  curd  are  immersed 
in  water  or  whey  having  a  temperature  of  150°  F.  This  gives  a  tough  layer 
to  the  block  of  curd,  which  is  then  removed  to  a  table  and  pressed  or  stretched 
by  the  use  of  a  broad  wooden  spoon  or  paddle.  Salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface 
and  the  piece  of  curd  is  folded  and  wrapped  in  a  cloth  and  squeezed  to  force 
out  the  moisture.  The  finished  product  is  about  6  inches  in  diameter,  1  to  2 
inches  thick,  and  has  slightly  rounded  top  and  bottom  surfaces.  When  the 
cheese  is  cut  it  appears  to  be  in  layers  like  leaves  upon  one  another,  hence  the 
name,  signifying  leaf  cheese. 

QUESO  DE  MANO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  resembling  a  hand  cheese,  and  is  made  in  Vene- 
zuela.    It  is  6  to  7  inches  in  diameter. 

QUESO   DE  PRENSA. 

This  is  a  Porto  Rican  product,  and  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  un- 
skimmed cow's  milk.  The  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  six  hours  without  cooling, 
and  rennet  is  then  added.  The  curd  is  broken  by  hand  or  with  a  stick,  and 
after  part  of  the  whey  is  separated  the  curd  is  transferred  to  a  table  and  is 
broken  into  small  pieces.  It  is  then  put  in  wooden  frames,  and  salt  is  added 
either  as  the  curd  goes  into  the  frame  or  by  sprinkling  on  top.  Light  pressure 
is  applied,  either  by  hand  or  by  means  of  a  screw.  After  leaving  the  press  the 
cheese  is  placed  on  racks.  It  may  be  eaten  fresh  or  allowed  to  stand  for  2  to  3 
months.  The  cheeses  are  11  inches  Ions'.  5$  inches  wide,  and  3  inches  thick, 
and  weigh  about  5  pounds.     The  name  signifies  pressed  cheese. 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEI  |, 

01!  PUNA. 

Tins  |g  .i  Porto  Mean  product,  resembling  eery  modi  the  Oottage  or  Dutch 
cheese  i  f  the  United  States,    The  ml  irlth  rennet  end  th<  thor 

oughlj  mashed  or  kneaded  by  hand,  salt  being  added  at  the  same  ft  me.    The 
cnrd  is  put  in  a  hoop  S  Inches  m  diameter  and  1 1  Inches  deep,  where  II  remains 
without  pressure  for  2  or  8  days,  or  until  it  win  keep  its  form.    The  che 
eaten  fresh. 

KABACAL. 

This  is  a  round,  rather  Qrm  cheese  made  from  the  milk  ol  si p  and  goats  In 

the  vicinity  of  Coimbra,  Portugal    A  cheese  is  i  to  ES  Inches  In  diameter  and  l 
Inch  thick. 

RADEN. 

This  is  a  hard  rennel  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  In  Mecklenburg.  The 
cheeses  are  16  Inches  in  diameter  and  i  Inches  thick,  and  weigh  32  pounds. 
Tln»  process  of  manufacture  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of  EmmentaL 

RANGIPORT. 

This  cheese  is  in  every  way  analogous  to  Porl  du  Salut     it  is  about  6  inches 

In  diameter  and  2\  Inches  thick  and  weighs  about  2\  pounds.     It  is  made  in  the 
Department  of  Seiue-et-Oise,  France. 

RAYON. 

This  is  a  special  type  of  Emmental  cheese,  made  largely  In  the  Canton  of 
Fribourg,  Switzerland,  for  exportation  to  Italy,  though  some  is  now  manu- 
factured in  Italy.  It  is  made  of  partly  skimmed  milk,  and  the  cocking  is  con- 
tinued to  a  point  that  insures  a  very  dry,  hard  cheese,  which  develops  no 
After  curing  it  is  shipped  largely  to  Turin,  where  it  is  placed  on  edge  on  shelves 
In  a  dry,  warm  cave,  and  the  fat  leaks  out,  leaving  the  cheese  exceedingly  dry 
and  hard,  when  it  is  used  for  grating.  After  the  drying  process  the  cheese  is 
called  Baper. 

REBBIOLA. 

Rebbiola,  or  Robiola.  is  a  soft  cheese,  made  principally  in  the  Alpine  districts 
of  Italy.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  very  simple.  It  is  generally  made 
from  milk  skimmed  after  12  hours,  but  whole  milk  is  sometimes  used.  The 
cheese  is  circular  and  weighs  about  2  pounds.  The  ripening  process  is  very 
rapid,  requiring  usually  12  to  15  days.  The  milk  is  set  at  a  temperature  of 
00°  F.,  the  time  allowed  being  usually  about  one-half  hour.  The  curd  is  cut 
fine  and  put  into  molds  8  inches  in  diameter  and  6  inches  high,  the  bottom 
being  perforated.  Five  hours  later  the  cheeses  are  removed  from  the  molds 
and  placed  on  a  draining  board  covered  with  straw.  After  2  or  .'{  days  they 
are  salted  and  then  ripened. 

REBLOCHON. 

This  is  a  soft  French  cheese,  weighing  1  to  2  pounds,  [t  is  made  from  fresh 
whole  milk,  which  is  curdled  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  so0  F.  or  above. 
the  time  allowed  being  about  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  peas, 
cooked  to  about  95°,  and  after  the  removal  of  the  whey  is  put  Into  molds  about 
6  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  in  height.     A  weight  of  about  5  pounds  is 


48  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

placed  upon  each  cheese,  which  is  turned  frequently  and  salted  after  about 

12  hours.     In  a  moist  room  having  a  temperature  of  about  60°  the  desired 

degree  of  ripening  is  secured  in  4  to  5  weeks.     An  imitation  of  this  cheese, 
made  in  Savoy,  France,  is  known  as  Brizecon. 

REINDEER  MILK. 

In  Norway  and  Sweden  the  milk  of  the  reindeer  is  sometimes  used  for 
cheesemaking.  Rennet  is  added  at  100°  F.,  and  the  curd  is  cut  and  dipped 
into  a  large  frame,  where  it  is  pressed  lightly.  The  mass  of  curd  is  then  cut 
into  pieces  5  by  4  by  2\  inches,  which  are  salted  on  the  surface  and  are  allowed 
to  ripen  in  a  dry  curing  room. 

RIESENGEBIRGE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese,  made  from  goat's  milk  in  the  mountains  on  the 
northern  border  of  Bohemia.  The  milk  is  set  at  about  90°  F.  The  curd  is 
broken  up  and  the  whey  dipped  off,  after  which  the  curd  is  put  in  forms,  where 
it  remains  in  a  warm  place  for  24  hours.  It  is  then  covered  with  salt  and  after 
drying  for  3  to  4  days  is  placed  in  the  curing  cellar.  From  each  100  pounds 
of  milk  18  pounds  of  cheese  is  secured. 

RINNEN. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  which  was  known  in  the  eighteenth  century.  It 
is  made  in  Pomerania  from  milk  sufficiently  acid  to  cause  a  precipitation  of  the 
curd  when  it  is  warmed  to  about  90°  F.  The  cheese  derives  its  name  from  the 
wooden  trough  in  which  it  is  laid  to  drain.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  heated 
to  expel  the  whey.  The  curd  is  kneaded  by  hand  and  caraway  seed  is  added. 
It  is  molded  into  forms  and  pressed.  Salt  is  then  rubbed  on  the  outside.  The 
cheese  is  dried  and  put  in  a  box  to  ripen. 

ROLL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  made  in  England  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk. 
It  is  cylindrical  in  shape,  8  inches  high  by  9  inches  in  diameter.  A  cheese 
weighs  20  pounds. 

ROLLOT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese,  2\  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  thick,  made 
in  the  Departments  of  Somme  and  Oise,  France. 

ROMADOUR. 

Romadour,  Reruoudou,  or  Romatur  cheese  is  a  southern  Bavarian  product 
similar  to  Limburg.  It  is  4£  by  2  by  2  inches  in  size  and  weighs  1  pound.  It 
is  said  to  be  a  little  finer  variety  of  cheese  than  Limburg  and  to  sell  for  a 
slightly  higher  price. 

ROQUEFORT. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  the  milk  of  sheep.  There  are,  how- 
ever, numerous  imitations  or  varieties  closely  resembling  Roquefort,  such  as 
Gex  and  Septmoncel,  made  from  cow's  milk.  One  of  the  most  striking  charac- 
teristics of  this  cheese  is  the  mottled  or  marbled  appearance  of  the  interior,  due 
to  the  development  of  a  penicillium,  which  is  the  principal  ripening  agent.  The 
manufacture  of  Roquefort  cheese  has  been  carried  on  in  the  southeastern  part 


\  \i;n  i  n  -  OF  «  in  i  19 

of  Prance  for  at  least  two  centurlea  The  Industry  ix  particularly  Important 
in  t in*  Department  of  Areyron,  In  which  la  eltuated  the  filiate  of  Roquefort 

from  which  i he  eheese  derives  its  mime.  1 1  i>  alio  made  lu  Corsica  Imitations 
of  Etoqueforl  cbeeee  are  made  In  rarlous  count] 

The  evenings  milk  la  heated  to  1 1'»  bo  160  P.,  cooled,  and  kepi  over  night 
At'i.T  being  skimmed  II  la  mixed  with  the  fresh  morning's  milk.  The  mixture 
is  then  sel  with  rennet  al  a  temperature  of  about  '.hi  .  in  from  l  to  2  boors 
after  the  addition  of  rennet  the  curd  la  cut  until  the  particles  are  about  the  else 
of  walnuta  rhe  whey  which  rises  to  the  aurface  la  dipped  off  and  the  curd  la 
put  Into  hoops  which  are  about  B\  Inchea  In  diameter  and  3j  Lnchea  In  height 
The  boopa  are  filled  usually  In  three  layera,  a  layer  of  moldy  bread  crumba 
being  Interspersed  between  the  tir^t  and  second  and  Becond  and  third  layera 

The  bread  used  for  this  purpose  is  prepared  from  wheat  and  barley  Hour,  witli 

the  addition  of  whey  and  a  little  vinegar.  It  is  thoroughly  baked  and  kepi  in 
a  moist  place  for  t  to  •'•  weeks,  during  which  time  it  becomes  permeated  with 

a  growth  of  the  mold  referred  to.  The  crust  is  removed  and  the  interior  is 
crumbled  very  fine  and  sifted.  The  cheese  is  subjected  to  pressure,  which  is 
gradually  Increased,  for  10  to  12  hours,     it  is  turned  usually   l   hour  after 

putting  into  boopa  Ai  the  end  of  about  12  hours  it  is  wrapped  In  cloth  and 
taken  to  the  first  curing  room.  The  cloths  are  frequently  changed  during  the 
10  to  12  clays  the  cheese  remains  In  this  place. 

Formerly  the  manufacture  of  the  cheese  up  to  this  stage  was  carried  on  by 
the  shepherds  themselves,  but  in  recent  years  centralized  factories  have  been 
established  and  much  of  the  milk  is  collected  and  there  made  into  cheese.  The 
cheese  is  then  taken  to  the  caves.  These  are  for  the  most  part  natural  caverns 
which  exist  in  large  numbers  in  the  region  of  Roquefort.  The  temperature  in 
these  cares  is  40°  to  45°,  and  the  air  circulates  very  freely  through  them. 
Recently  artificial  cares  have  been  constructed  and  used.  "When  the  cheeses 
reach  the  caves  they  are  salted,  which  serves  to  check  the  growth  of  the  mold 
on  the  surface.  One  or  two  clays  later  they  are  rubbed  vigorously  with  cloth 
and  are  afterwards  subjected  to  thorough  scraping  with  knives,  a  process  for- 
merly done  by  hand  but  now  much  more  satifactorily  and  economically  by  ma- 
chinery. The  salting,  scraping,  or  brushing  seems  to  check  the  development 
of  mold  on  the  surface.  In  order  to  favor  the  growth  of  mold  in  the  interior, 
the  cheese  is  pierced  by  machinery  with  60  to  100  small  steel  needles,  which 
process  permits  the  free  access  of  air.  The  cheese  may  be  sold  after  30  to  40 
days  or  may  remain  in  the  caves  as  long  as  5  months,  depending  upon  the 
degree  of  ripening  desired.  The  cheese  loses  during  ripening  by  scraping  and 
evaporation  as  much  as  25  per  cent  of  the  original  weight.  The  weight  when 
ripened  is  about  4*  to  5  pounds. 

SAANEN. 

This  is  a  type  of  Emmental  cheese  made  in  Switzerland  from  cow's  milk.  It 
is  sometimes  known  at  Hartk&se,  Reibkase,  and  Wallisk&ae.  First  mentioned 
in  the  sixteenth  century,  it  is  still  manufactured  extensively  at  the  present 
time  and  exported  to  a  limited  extent.  It  sells  for  a  higher  price  than  the 
regular  Emmental.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  identical  with  that  of 
Emmental.  except  that  it  is  cooked  much  dryer,  takes  much  longer  to  cure,  and 
keeps  longer.  The  cheese  weighs  from  10  to  20  pouuds.  The  eyes  are  few 
and  small. 

The  ripening  period  is  never  less  than  3  years  and  many  require  as  long  as 
9  years,  the  average  being  0  years.     The  cheeses  are  kepi   to  great   ag. 
being  the  custom  to  make  a  cheese  at  the  birth  of  a  child  and  eat  it  at  the 
10415°— Bull.  146—11 4 


50  VARIETIES   OF  CHEESE. 

burial  feast  or  even  at  the  burial  feast  of  a  son  of  the  child  for  whom  it  is 
made.  One  cheese  is  mentioned  as  being  200  years  old  and  is  considered  a  great 
honor  to  the  household.    Many  cheeses  are  kept  until  they  are  30  years  old. 

SAGE. 

This  cheese  is  made  by  the  ordinary  Cheddar  process,  and  may  be  of  any  of 
the  various  shapes  and  sizes  in  which  that  cheese  is  pressed.  As  seen  when 
cut  it  has  a  green  mottled  appearance. 

Formerly  sage  cheese  was  made  by  mixing  green  sage  leaves  with  the  curd 
before  it  was  pressed.  At  the  present  time  the  flavor  of  sage  is  obtained  by  sage 
extract.  To  secure  the  green  mottles,  succulent  green  corn  is  cut  fine  and  the 
juice  is  pressed  out.  A  small  portion  of  the  milk  is  mixed  with  this  juice  and 
is  set  with  rennet  in  a  small  vat  while  the  bulk  of  the  milk  is  set  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner.  After  the  curd  is  cut  and  is  firm  enough  to  be  handled,  the  green 
curd  from  the  small  vat  is  mixed  with  the  uncolored  curd,  and  the  process  is 
continued  as  in  the  Cheddar  process.  This  is  a  very  popular  variety  of  cheese 
with  many  consumers. 

SAINT  BENOIT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Olivet,  and  is  made  in  the  Department 
of  Loiret,  France.  Charcoal  is  added  to  the  salt  which  is  applied  to  the  exterior 
of  the  cheese.  Ripening  requires  from  12  to  15  days  in  summer  and  18  to  20 
days  in  winter.    A  cheese  is  about  6  inches  in  diameter. 

SAINT  CLAUDE. 

This  is  a  small,  square,  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  region  of  Saint  Claude, 
France.  The  milk  is  curdled  with  rennet  and  the  curd  placed  in  molds  for  6 
to  8  hours.  It  is  then  salted  and  allowed  to  ripen,  or  may,  however,  be  eaten 
when  fresh.    A  cheese  weighs  from  one-quarter  to  one-half  pound. 

SAINT  MARCELLIN. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Department  of  Isfere,  France. 
Sheep's  milk  or  even  cow's  milk  may  be  mixed  with  the  goat's  milk.  A  cheese 
is  about  3  inches  in  diameter  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick  and  weighs 
about  one-fourth  pound. 

SAINT  REMY. 

'This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  differing  but  little  from  Pont  l']£veque.  It  is 
made  in  the  Department  of  Haute-SaOne,  France. 

SALOIO. 

This  is  a  kind  of  hand  cheese  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk  on  farms  in 
the  region  of  Lisbon,  Portugal.  It  has  the  form  of  a  short  cylinder,  measures 
1£  to  2  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  about  4  ounces.  A  similar  cheese  of 
about  the  same  character  is  made  in  Thomar,  about  50  miles  north  of  Lisbon. 

SAP  SAGO. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  sour  skimmed  cow's  milk,  principally  in  Glarus, 
Switzerland.  It  is  known  also  as  Schabzieger,  Glarnerkase,  Grunerkase,  and 
Krauterkase.  It  is  claimed  to  have  been  made  in  the  thirteenth  century;  the 
authentic  history  at  least  dates  back  to  the  fifteenth  century.     Sap  Sago  is  a 


\  uni.i  ii  -  OF  0HS1  51 

mall,  bard,  green  cheese  DaTored  wiiii  the  leaTei  of  ■  ■pedes  of  clover; 
shaped  1 1 Ut*  ;i  truncated  cone,  i  Inches  high,  ::  Inchea  In  diameter  at  the 
and  2  Inchef  at  the  top,    Thia  cheeee  is  imported  to  some  extent  Into  the  Qnited 
States  under  the  name  of  Bap  Bago. 

The  Bklmmed  milk  from  which  this  cheeee  la  made  li  Dot  allowed  to  become 
sour  enough  to  coagulate  on  beating;  aa  it  would  make  too  hard  a  curd.  The 
milk  when  ii  lias  reached  the  right  acidity  is  heated  to  the  boiling  temperature 
while  being  stirred  Cold  buttermilk  is  then  added,  as  is  also  aome  \\  bey  bai  Ing 
a   high   percentage  of  aridity.     The  material   coagulating  on   the  surface  la 

skimmed   off.     The  milk   is  then   stirred   while  Sufficient   arid   whey    is  added    to 

precipitate  the  casein,    when  too  little  whey  is  used  the  curd  la  t<»<>  soft,  and 

when  tOO  mueh  is  used  it  is  too  hard.  The  I  unl  is  dipped  with  a  Skimmer  and 
spread  out  to  COOl  and  then  put  in  h«.\es  and  allowed  to  drain  and  ferment     The 

hex  is  kept  at  a  temperature  <»r  about  tin  p.,  and  pressure  is  applied  by 
weighting  with  atones.    Ripening  is  allowed  to  continue  for  .".  to  i;  weeks,    ft  the 

temperature  of  the  room  is  too  high  or  there  is  not  BUfflcient  pressure,  tOO  rapid 
and  Btrong  fermentation  results.     This  curd  is  used  for  making  the  finished 

product,  but  the  cheese  is  seldom  finished  where  the  curd  is  made.  The  curd  is 
ground  in  a  mill,  and  every  100  pounds  of  cheese  contains  5  pounds  of  salt  and 
25  pounds  of  dried  Melilotus  cwrulca,  an  aromatic  clover  which  is  grown  in 
the  Canton  of  Schweiz  for  the  purpose.  The  ground  material  is  worked  up 
into  a  dough  and  is  forced  into  molds  lined  with  linen  cloth,  and  the  name  of 
the  manufacturer  is  stamped  on  the  large  end.  The  mold  is  then  emptied  and 
refilled.  The  cheeses  are  dumped  promiscuously  into  a  large  cask  holding  about 
200  pounds.  A  comparatively  small  quantity  is  shipped  into  this  country.  It 
sells  at  a  low  price  and  is  usually  grated. 

SASSENAGE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  about  12  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  in 
height,  made  from  cow's  milk  to  which  small  quantities  of  goat's  and  sheep's 
milk  are  usually  added.  The  cheese  is  almost  identical  with  that  of  Gex  and 
Septmoncel.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Sassenage,  near  Grenoble, 
in  the  Department  of  Isere,  France.  The  milk  used  is  usually  a  mixture  of 
skimmed  milk  and  whole  milk.  It  is  set  with  rennet,  and  the  curd  is  cut  and 
put  into  molds  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the  other  varieties  mentioned.  The 
same  is  also  true  of  the  ripening  process,  which  requires  about  2  months. 

SCANNO. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  the  milk  of  sheep  in  the  Apennlne 
Mountains,  in  the  Province  of  Abruzzo,  Italy.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
village  of  Scanno.  The  surface  of  the  cheese  is  colored  a  deep  black.  The 
interior  is  bright  yellow  and  has  the  consistency  of  butter. 

SCARMORZE. 

This  is  a  small  rennet  cheese  made  in  southern  Italy  from  the  milk  of  buffaloes. 

SCHAMSER. 

This  cheese,  which  is  also  known  as  Rheinwald,  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from 
skimmed  cow's  milk  in  the  Canton  Graubiinden,  Switzerland.  The  cheeses 
weigh  from  40  to  45  pounds  and  are  18  inches  in  diameter  and  5  inches  high. 


52  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

SCHLOSS. 

Schlosskase,  or  Castle  cheese,  is  a  Lhnburg  cheese  made  in  the  northern  part 
of  Austria.  It  is  a  soft-cured  rennet  cheese  4  by  2  by  2  inches  in  size.  When 
ready  for  market  it  is  wrapped  in  tin  foil. 

SCHOTTENGSIED. 

This  a  whey  cheese  made  by  the  peasants  of  the  Alps  for  Lome  use. 

SCHWARZENBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  southern  Bohemia  and  western  Hungary.  It  is  a 
rennet  cheese  made  from  partly  skimmed  cow's  milk.  One  part  of  skimmed 
milk  is  added  to  two  parts  of  fresh  milk.  In  about  1  hour  after  the  addition 
of  rennet  the  curd  is  broken  up  and  thoroughly  stirred.  It  is  then  dipped  into 
wooden  forms  and  light  pressure  applied  for  half  a  day.  For  4  or  5  days  fol- 
lowing the  cheese  is  rubbed  with  salt  and  is  then  taken  to  the  cellar,  where 
it  is  washed  daily  with  salt  water  until  ripe,  which  requires  2  to  3  months. 

SENECTERRE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  originating  at  Saint  Nectaire,  in  the  Department 
of  Puy-de-Dome,  France.  It  is  made  out  of  whole  milk,  is  cylindrical  in  shape, 
and  weighs  about  1*  pounds. 

SEPTMONCEL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk,  to  which  a  small  propor- 
tion of  goat's  milk  is  sometimes  added.  It  resembles  the  Gex  and  Sassenage 
varieties  very  closely,  and  its  process  of  manufacture  is  almost  identical  with 
that  of  Roquefort.  It  is  also  known  as  Jura  blue  cheese.  It  derives  its  name 
from  the  village  of  Septmoncel,  near  Saint  Claude,  in  the  Department  of  Jura, 
where  the  cheese  is  for  the  most  part  made.  The  cheese  is  made  almost  exclu- 
sively on  isolated  farms  rather  than  in  cooperative  dairies,  and  the  methods 
employed  are  somewhat  rudimentary. 

The  milk,  which  is  usually  partly  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  85°  F.  The  curd  is  cut  and  stirred  after  about  1£  hours.  After 
the  curd  has  settled  the  whey  is  poured  off.  The  stirring  and  draining  are 
repeated  several  times  until  the  curd  is  sufficiently  firm  to  put  into  hoops. 
Moderate  pressure  is  applied  for  a  few  hours.  The  cheese  is  salted  at  the  end 
of  24  hours,  and  thereafter  daily  for  several  days.  It  is  then  transferred  to 
the  first  curing  room,  which  is  kept  cool  and  moist.  After  3  to  4  weeks  it  has 
become  covered  with  blue  mold,  when  it  is  transferred  to  cellars  or  natural 
caves,  where  the  ripening  is  completed  in  from  3  to  4  weeks  longer. 

SERRA  DA  ESTRELLA. 

This  is  the  most  highly  prized  of  the  several  kinds  of  cheeses  made  in 
Portugal.  The  name  refers  to  the  mountainous  region  in  which  the  cheese  is 
produced.  It  is  made  for  the  most  part  from  the  milk  of  sheep,  but  goat's  milk 
is  often  added  to  this,  or  even  used  alone,  and  occasionally  cow's  milk  is  used. 

The  method  of  making  this  cheese  is  comparatively  simple.  The  milk  is 
warmed  in  a  kettle  with  little  regard  to  the  temperature  obtained,  and  is 
coagulated  in  most  cases  by  means  of  an  extract  of  the  flowers  of  a  kind  of 
thistle.    The  time  required  for  curdling  varies  from  2  to  6  hours,  depending 


vm;ii  i  ' 

upon  the  :innMiM  of  tin-  extract  need     Tlie  cord  li  broken  up  with  i  lad 
hy  band,  equeened  to  remon  I  the  whey,  ind  pot  Into  drcol 

After  draining   Until   sutliciently   Mnn   1 1 »« -  cheese*,   are   removed    from   tin-    li 

ami  allowed  to  ripen  for  sereraJ  ireeka,  during  which  time  they  are  frequently 

iraahed   with  Whey  and  salted  on  tlio  surface.     The  cheeses   \ary   much   in 

the  larger  meaaoring  about  10  Inchei  In  diameter  and  2  Inchee  thick,  and  v. 

ing  about  .".  poundv     '1'ho  «  '  ither  soft  and  has  a  pleasant  acid  tai 

\  similar  cheeae  made  In  another  part  of  Portugal  is  known  as  Caetello 
Bran  <•. 

SERVIAN. 

In  making  Servian  cheeae  the  milk  la  warmed  In  a  kettle  over  a  fire  or  in  a 
tub  by  Immersing  heated  stones.  After  the  rennet  Is  added  the  milk  Is  allowed 
to  stand  i  boor.    The  curd  is  then  lifted  In  a  cloth  and  the  whey  allowed  to 

drain.      It    is  thou   placed   in  a   wooden  vessel.   Baited,   and  covered   successively 

with  whey  for  abOUl   8  days  and  fresh  milk  for  about  6  days. 

SILESIAN. 

A  cheeae  known  locally  as  Schlesischer  Weichquarg  is  made  from  skimmed 
cow's  milk,  the  process  of  manufacture  resembling  that  of  hand  cheese.  The 
milk  is  allowed  to  coagulate  from  souring  and  the  curd  is  broken  up  and  cooked 
at  100"  F.  for  a  short  period.  The  curd  is  then  put  In  a  cloth  sack  and  light 
pressure  applied  for  24  hours,  after  which  it  is  kneaded  by  hand  and  salt  and 
milk  or  cream  are  added.  Flavoring  substances  such  as  onions  or  caraway  seed 
are  also  sometimes  added.     The  cheese  is  eaten  fresh. 

Another  cheese  known  as  Schlesischer  Sauermilchkiise  is  also  made  in  much 
the  same  way  as  hand  cheese.  The  cheeses  are  kept  on  shelves  covered  with 
straw,  and  are  dried  by  the  stove  in  winter  and  in  a  latticework  house  in 
summer.  Drying  is  continued  until  the  cheese  becomes  very  hard.  The  cheese 
is  ripened  in  a  cellar,  the  process  requiring  3  to  8  weeks,  during  which  time  it  is 
washed  every  few  days  with  warm  water. 

SIRAZ. 

This  is  a  Servian  cheese  made  as  a  rule  from  whole  milk.  The  milk  is  set 
at  104°  F.  and  the  curd  is  lifted  from  the  whey  with  a  cloth  and  pressed  into 
cakes  4  to  6  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  thick.  These  cakes  are  j 'laced  in  the 
sun  to  dry  until  the  fat  commences  to  run.  when  they  are  rubbed  several  times 
with  salt  until  a  good  crust  is  formed.  The  cakes  are  then  packed  in  a  wooden 
I  and  allowed  to  ripen.  The  cut  surface  shows  a  smooth  appearance  with- 
out holes.    It  is  between  a  hard  and  a  soft  cheese. 

SLIPCOTE. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Rutlandshire.  England.  It  is  a  soft  unripened  rennet 
cheese,  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  curd  is  dipped  into  small  forms  and  no 
pressure  is  applied.  After  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  form  the  surface  dries 
and  cracks  and  is  easily  slipped  off,  hence  the  name.  It  is  an  old  cheese,  having 
been  well  known  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

SPALEN. 

This  is  a  type  of  Emmental  cheese,  and  is  sometimes  known  as  Stringer.  Its 
origin  is  unknown.  It  is  made  largely  In  the  Canton  of  Unterwalden,  Switzer- 
land, from  sweet  cow's  milk,  often  partly  skimmed.    The  name  is  derived  from 


54  VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE. 

the  vessel  in  which  the  cheeses  are  transported  and  in  which  five  or  six  of  them 
are  packed.  This  is  a  small  cheese  for  an  Emmental  type.  Each  cheese  weighs 
from  35  to  40  pounds. 

^so  thermometer  is  used  in  the  manufacture,  the  temperature  being  judged  by 
the  feeling,  and  a  very  uneven  product  is  the  result.  The  process  of  making 
seems  to  vary  much,  the  press  consisting  of  a  board  with  stones  for  weights, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  cellar  being  poorly  regulated. 

SPITZ. 

This  is  a  small  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  cheese  is  cylindrical 
in  shape,  being  4  inches  high  and  1|  inches  in  diameter. 

STEPPES. 

This  name  is  applied  to  a  Russian  cheese  made  from  whole  milk.  The  milk 
after  the  addition  of  coloring  matter  is  heated  to  about  90°  F.  and  treated  with 
sufficient  rennet  to  secure  coagulation  in  40  to  45  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  into 
large  cubes,  the  whey  removed  slowly,  and  the  curd  is  still  further  broken  up 
until  the  particles  are  uniformly  about  the  size  of  peas.  The  curd  is  then  heated 
gradually  to  100°  to  104°,  the  mass  meanwhile  being  gently  agitated.  The 
stirring  is  kept  up  for  some  time  after  heating  ceases  until  the  curd  becomes 
dry,  when  it  is  placed  in  molds  10  by  5J  by  7  inches.  After  the  cheeses  are  re- 
moved from  the  molds  they  are  turned  frequently  and  5  hours  later  are  salted 
and  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  a  temperature  of  about  55°  is  main- 
tained. During  ripening  the  cheeses  are  worked  occasionally  with  salt  water 
and  turned  frequently. 

STILTON. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  the  best  of  which  is  made  from  cow's  milk  to 
which  a  portion  of  cream  has  been  added.  It  was  first  made  near  the  village  of 
Stilton,  Huntingdonshire,  England,  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
It  is  now  made  principally  in  Leicestershire  and  west  Rutlandshire,  though  its 
manufacture  has  extended  to  other  parts  of  England.  Its  manufacture  has  been 
tried,  though  without  success,  in  the  United  States.  The  cheese  is  about  7 
inches  in  diameter  and  9  inches  high  and  weighs  12  to  15  pounds.  It  has  a  very 
characteristic  wrinkled  or  ridged  skin  or  rind,  which  is  likely  caused  by  the  dry- 
ing of  molds  and  bacteria  on  the  surface.  When  cut  it  shows  blue  or  green  por- 
tions of  mold  which  give  its  characteristic  piquant  flavor.  The  price  in  this 
country  is  about  45  cents  a  pound  wholesale.  The  cheese  belongs  to  the  same 
group  as  the  Roquefort  of  France  and  the  Gorgonzola  of  Italy. 

The  morning's  milk  is  put  in  a  tin  vat  and  the  cream  from  the  night's  milk  is 
added,  and  the  whdle  is  brought  to  a  temperature  of  80°  F.,  when  the  rennet  is 
added.  It  is  claimed  by  some  cheese  makers  that  the  curd  should  be  softer 
when  broken  up  or  cut  than  the  curd  for  Cheddar  cheese,  while  by  others  it  is 
believed  that  it  should  become  very  firm  before  it  is  disturbed,  allowing  1  to  2 
hours  for  setting.  When  sufficiently  firm  the  curd  is  dipped  into  cloths  which 
are  placed  in  tin  strainers.  After  draining  for  1  hour  the  cloths  containing  the 
curd  are  packed  closely  together  in  a  large  tub  and  allowed  to  remain  for  12 
hours,  when  they  are  again  tightened  and  packed  for  18  hours.  The  curd  is 
ground  up  coarse  and  salt  is  added,  1  pound  to  60  pounds  of  curd.  The  curd  is 
then  put  into  tin  hoops  8  inches  in  diameter  and  10  inches  deep.  The  cheeses 
remain  in  the  hoops  for  6  days,  when  they  are  bandaged  for  12  days,  or  until 
they  become  firm,  and  are  then  placed  in  the  curing  room  at  65°.  Ripened  Stil- 
ton cheese  is  of  late  often  ground  up  and  put  into  jars  holding  1  to  2\  pounds. 


V\i: 

STRACCHINO. 
This  name  is  applied  tO  s<-\cral   forms  of    ■ 

of  which  is  stracchlno  dl  Gorgonaola,  which  Li  described  under  the  nai 
gonsola.    a  square  form  0  to  s  Inches  on  ■  side  and  U  Inches  thick  li  knot 

BtraCChlnO  dl    Milan. >.    BYeSCO,   Quadn».   'T   Ouartirohi.      '  1 '  1 1 i s  rh.-esr   is   |,r, 

similarly  i..  Qorgonsola  tmt  is  allowed  i"  ripen  for  only  about  -  months, 

m>t  much  exported.    Btracchlno  Crescensa  Is  a   rerj   sofl  and  hlghlj  ««»i..i«m1 

cheese  usually  eaten  fresh,    The  form  is  similar  to  thai  of  the  QuartlrokL    n  is 

usually  marketed  In  about  8  days  and  can  not  be  kept  long. 

STYRIA. 

This  is  a  o\ iindrieal-shaped  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk  in 
Styria.  Austria. 

SWEET  CURD. 

This  is  s  name  applied  in  the  United  States  to  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made 
from  cow's  milk.  The  name  is  used  to  distinguish  it  from  the  ordinary  Cheddar 
or  granular  process,  as  in  making  Sweet  Curd  cheese  the  milk  is  sot  sweet,  and 
Lhe  cutting  and  cooking  are  done  rapidly  without  regard  to  the  development 
«>i  add.  In  making  this  cheese  the  curd  is  cooked  very  firm  and  is  salted  and 
put  to  press  immediately.  In  all  other  respects  the  process  is  the  same  as  for 
Cheddar,  and  the  cheese  when  ripened  resembles  that  cheese  very  closely. 

SWISS. 

Swiss  or  Schweitzer  cheese  belongs  to  the  Emmental  group  of  cheeses  and  is 
made  usually  from  half-skimmed  cow's  milk.  Its  manufacture  is  very  old.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  originated  in  the  Alps,  but  is  now  made  in  most  of  the 
surrounding  countries.  It  is  made  mostly  in  the  winter  season,  when  the  price 
of  butter  is  high,  and  only  for  local  consumption.  Its  manufacture  differs  from 
real  Emmental  in  that  it  is  made  from  half-skimmed  milk.  The  morning's  milk 
is  first  heated  and  the  skimmed  evening's  milk  is  added.  The  curd  is  cut 
coarser  and  is  not  cooked  so  firm  as  Emmental,  which  gives  a  softer  and  more 
quickly  ripened  cheese. 

The  cheese  made  in  the  United  States  which  goes  by  the  name  of  Swiss  or 
Domestic  Swiss  is  in  reality  an  imitation  of  the  Emmental  cheese,  as  it  is  made 
from  whole  milk. 

TAFI. 

This  cheese  is  manufactured  in  the  Province  of  Tucuman,  in  the  Argentine 
Republic. 

TAMIE. 
i 

This  cheese  is  made  by  the  Trappists  in  Savoy.  France.  The  whole  milk  is 
heated  to  about  SO0  F.  and  coagulated  with  rennet  in  about  30  minutes.  The 
curd  is  cut  fine,  cooked  to  about  100°,  stirred,  and  put  into  molds  7  inches  in 
diameter  and  4  inches  in  height.  The  cheese  is  pressed  for  6  to  S  hours,  the 
cloths  being  changed  frequently.  After  being  salted  the  cheese  is  ripened  for 
5  to  6  weeks.  The  method  of  manufacture  is,  to  a  large  extent,  a  trade  secret. 
The  Tome  de  Beaumont  is  a  more  or  less  successful  imitation. 


56  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

TEXEL. 

This  is  a  slieep's-inilk  cheese  made  in  Holland.  It  was  known  in  the  seven- 
teenth century.     A  cheese  weighs  3  to  4  pounds  and  is  colored  green. 

THENAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  Vendome  and  is  made 
in  the  region  of  Thenay  in  the  Department  of  Loir-et-Cher,  France.  It  is  of 
comparatively  recent  origin,  and  its  consumption  is  limited  practically  to  the 
region  in  which  it  is  produced. 

The  evening's  milk  without  being  skimmed  is  mixed  with  the  fresh  morning's 
milk.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.  and 
allowed  to  stand  for  4  to  5  hours.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  put  into 
hoops  about  5  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  in  height.  After  draining  for 
about  1  day  it  is  turned  and  salted.  The  cheese  is  then  kept  for  about  20  days 
in  a  well-ventilated  room  during  which  time  it  becomes  covered  with  molds.  It 
is  then  taken  to  the  curing  cellar  for  about  15  days. 

TIGNARD. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  resembling  Gex  and  Sassenage,  made  from 
sheep's  and  goat's  milk  in  the  valley  of  the  Tigne,  in  Savoy,  France. 

TILSIT. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  mainly  in  East  Prussia  from  unskimmed 
cow's  milk.  It  is  sometimes  called  Ragnit.  The  milk  is  set  at  92°  F.  with  suffi- 
cient rennet  to  coagulate  in  from  15  to  40  minutes.  The  curd  is  rather 
coarsely  cut  or  broken  and  is  cooked  to  104°  to  110°,  being  stirred  meanwhile 
with  a  harp.  The  curd  is  cooked  quite  firm  or  until  it  can  not  be  squeezed 
through  between  the  fingers,  which  requires  about  40  minutes.  It  is  then 
dipped  into  cylindrical  forms,  where  it  remains  24  hours.  The  cheese  is  then 
covered  thickly  with  salt  for  from  1  to  2  days,  when  it  is  put  into  a  salt  bath 
for  3  to  5  days  and  then  transferred  to  the  cellar.  Here  it  is  rubbed  and 
washed  with  salt  water  frequently,  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  4  to  6  months. 
The  cheese  is  6  to  12  inches  in  diameter,  3  to  4£  inches  in  height,  and  weighs 
from  6  to  28  pounds.  It  resembles  in  general  characteristics  the  Brick  cheese 
of  the  United  States. 

TOPPEN. 

This  is  a  German  sour-milk  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  and  eaten  while 
fresh.    It  is  put  up  in  small  packages  weighing  about  1  ounce. 

TRAPPIST. 

This  cheese  originated  with  the  Trappists  in  1885  in  the  monastery  of  Maria- 
stern,  near  Banjaluka,  in  Bosnia.  The  fresh  milk  is  heated  to  about  85°  F. 
and  rennet  is  added.  After  1  to  li  hours  the  curd,  without  being  cut  or  stirred, 
is  put  into  hoops  and  pressed,  after  which  it  is  salted  and  ripened.  The 
growth  of  mold  is  entirely  prevented  by  frequent  washing,  and  thus  the  cheese 
ripens  uniformly  throughout.  The  ripening  period  of  the  smaller  cheeses  is 
5  to  6  weeks  in  summer,  but  the  cheese  is  usually  shipped  at  the  end  of  4  to 
5  weeks.  The  cheese  is  pale  yellow  in  color  and  has  a  remarkably  mild  taste. 
Although  this  cheese  is  to  be  classed  among  the  soft  varieties,  the  water  con- 


\  \l;il  I  M  -    OP  CHE1  51 

tent   ti  often  :  per  cent.     The  rlpeiilu  i  more  cli 

the   hard    cheeses      The  m    th..    i 

referred  to  has  »  (U:uiu*t«'r  of  <>  im-in  .  nm\  weigh*  2  to 

.*:  pounds.    A  larger  slse  measure*  '.•  Inches  In  diameter,  5  In  height 

weighs  about   io  pounds.    There  Is  also  i  still  lar  The  che< 

ported  to  i  large  extent  to  Austria  end  Hungary,  the  most  Important  » 
of  iii<'  trade  In  these  regions  being  Qrats  and  Budapest    it  la,  however,  found 
in  all  of  the  large  cities  of  Austria,  and  tin'  demand  nppeari  t"  !>«•  constantly  In- 
creasing.   This  mtv  probably  the  same  as  Port  <iu  Balnt 

a  cheese  which  Is  rery  likely  Identical  with  the  Trapplst,  or  Port  dn  Balnt, 
is  made  In  1 1 1« *  Trapplst  monastery  ;it  Oka,  Canada,  and  goes  by  the  name  of 
( >kn  chei  - 

TRAVNIK. 

This  is  ;i  soft  rennet  cheese  made  usually  from  whole  Sheep's  milk  to  which  a 
small  amount  of  goat's  milk  is  added.  Skimmed  milk,  however,  is  sometimes 
used,  it  is  also  known  as  Arnauten  and  vlasic.  This  cheese  originated  in 
Albania  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Turkey  In  Europe  and  has  been  made  for 
at  least  a  century,  in  the  country  of  origin  it  was  known  at  hrst  by  tiio  name 
Arnantski  Sir  or  Arnanten  cheese.  At  the  present  time  it  is  made  in  Bosnia 
and  Herzegovina,  but  principally  in  the  Vlasic  Plain.  The  center  of  trade  in 
this  cheese  is  Travnik  in  Bosnia. 

The  fresh  warm  milk  is  treated  with  sufficient  rennet  to  secure  coagulation  in 
one  and  one-fonrth  to  two  hours  and  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  a  short  time 
until  the  coagulum  contracts  and  the  whey  appears  on  the  surface.  The  curd 
is  then  put  into  woolen  sacks  and  drained  for  7  to  S  hours,  when  it  is  pi. 
into  flattened  halls  by  hand.  These  are  dried  for  a  short  time  in  the  open  air 
and  then  packed  into  wooden  receptacles  varying  in  diameter  from  14  to  28 
inches,  having  a  height  of  about  24  inches,  and  holding  from  50  to  130  pounds  of 
cheese.  Each  layer  of  cheese  is  salted  and  pressed  so  that  no  air  spaces  are 
left.  When  the  receptacle  is  filled  the  whey  usually  shows  at  the  surface,  any 
excess  being  removed.  Moderate  pressure  is  applied  to  the  cover  placed  upon 
the  cheese.  When  fresh,  the  cheese  made  from  whole  sheep's  milk  has  a  soft 
consistency,  a  nearly  white  color,  and  a  pleasant,  mild  taste.  The  cheese,  how- 
ever, is  usually  allowed  to  ripen  for  two  weeks  to  several  months.  No  holes 
should  develop  in  the  cheese. 

TROUVILLE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  same  locality  as  Pont  l'Eveque  and 
is  of  the  same  nature  though  superior  in  quality.  Only  fresh  whole  milk  is 
used.  The  temperature  of  setting  with  rennet  is  85°  to  !>r>°  F.  The  growth  of 
molds  during  ripening  is  prevented  by  frequent  washing  with  salt  water. 

TROYES. 

Two  kinds  of  cheese  are  referred  to  by  this  name — one  a  washed  cheese  with  a 
yellow  rind,  known  as  Ervy.  and  the  other  a  cheese  very  closely  resembling 
Camembert  and  known  as  Barberey.     The  industry  is  quite  restricted. 

TUNA. 

Tuna  cheese  is  a  Mexican  product  which  has  been  of  local  importance  from 
an  early  date.  It  is  really  a  confection  rather  than  a  cheese,  being  made  from 
the  fruit  of  the  Tuna  cardona,  or  sometimes  the  Tuna  ijavhona.    The  product 


58  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

is  made  by  boiling  and  straining  the  Tuna  pulp  until  a  cheese-like  consistency  is 
reached,  sometimes  with  the  addition  of  nuts  or  flavors.  It  is  of  a  chocolate 
color,  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  wholesome.  It  is  said  to  keep  in  good  condition 
indefinitely. 

TWOROG. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Russia.  The  soured  milk  is  kept  in  a 
warm  place  for  24  hours,  when  the  whey  is  removed  and  the  curd  put  into 
wooden  forms  and  subjected  to  pressure.  This  cheese  is  made  on  a  large  scale 
by  farmers  and  is  often  used  in  making  a  bread  called  "  Notruschki." 

URI. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cow's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Canton  of  Uri,  Switzer- 
land. It  has  a  diameter  of  8  to  12  inches  and  is  8  inches  high.  It  weighs  20 
to  40  pounds. 

VACHERIN. 

This  name  is  applied  to  two  quite  different  kinds  of  cheese. 

The  form  designated  Vacherin  a  la  Main  is  made  in  Switzerland  and  in  Savoy, 
France.  Whole  cow's  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F., 
and  the  curd  is  cut  very  fine  and  put  into  hoops  12.  inches  in  diameter  and  5 
to  6  inches  high.  It  is  salted  and  ripened.  The  rind  is  firm  and  hard,  but  the 
interior  is  almost  liquid  in  consistency.  It  is  either  spread  on  bread  or  eaten 
with  a  spoon.  A  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  5  to  10  pounds.  A  cheese  of  this 
kind  made  in  the  same  region  is  known  locally  as  Tome  de  Montagne. 

The  form  designated  Vacherin  Fondu  is  made  in  much  the  same  manner  as 
Emmental  cheese.    The  ripened  cheese  is  then  melted  and  spices  are  added. 

VENDOME. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  Thenay,  and  is  made 
in  the  region  of  Yendome  in  the  Department  of  Loir-et-Cher,  France. 

The  warm  morning's  milk  is  usually  mixed  with  that  of  the  previous  evening, 
which  secures  ordinarily  a  setting  temperature  of  75°  to  85°  F.,  which  is 
desired.  The  period  of  setting  is  4  to  5  hours  in  summer  and  5  to  6  hours  in 
winter.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  put  into  hoops  about  5  inches  in 
diameter  and  4  inches  in  height.  After  draining  for  24  hours  the  cheese  is 
turned  and  salted,  which  process  is  twice  repeated  at  intervals  of  12  hours. 
When  sufficiently  dried  it  is  placed  in  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  is  often  buried 
in  ashes.  This  cheese  is  placed  by  some  on  a  rank  with  Camembert.  The 
principal  market  is  Paris. 

VILLIERS. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  Department  of  Haute-Marne,  France. 
It  is  a  square  cheese  weighing  about  1  pound. 

VOID. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  rsembling  Pont  l'Fjveque  and  Limburg.  It  is 
made  in  the  Department  of  Meuse,  France.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a 
high  temperature,  the  whey  is  removed  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  the  cheeses 
during  ripening  are  washed  frequently  with  salt  water. 


\  \kii.i  ii  >  01    0HB1 
VO!  OUK    MILK 

'I'his.  bi  tii«'  name  Indl  defrom  sour  cow*a  milk,    it  Ii  semicircular 

in  Shape  anil  \aries  in  si/.e.      Ii   is  essentially  ;i  hard  •  h<  •'■-<• 

The  sweet  milk  la  put  In  ;i  kettle  and  raised  to  tt  i-.,  and  aour  thlckeoed  milk 
is  ;uM»ti  and  the  mixture  stirred  and  heated  to  96  .  at  which  temperature  it 
coagulates,  While  this  is  being  atlrred  with  :i  curd  acoop  the  temperature  is 
raised  to  106  .  Tlie  curd  is  then  dipped  into  forms,  where  it  la  turned  ■  few 
tlmea  during  24  hours,  suit  is  rubbed  on  the  surface  and  the  cheese  li  i 
In  a  room  having  a  temperature  of  67  .  The  cheese  is  then  placed  In  i 
mid  held  for  ■"•  days,  and  suit  is  sprinkled  over  the  surface  daily.  The  ripening 
la  completed  In  a  cellar,  when  ripe  the  cheese  is  greasy  and  has  a  wry  strong 
odor  and  Savor. 

WEISSLAK. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  In  the  Bavarian 
AJgau,  cm-many.    The  cheese  weighs  about  2\  pounds,  and  is  rectangular  In 

shape.  H  by  \  by  •">'  Inches. 

WENSLEYDALE. 

This  cheese  derives  its  name  from  the  valley  In  Yorkshire.  England,  in  which 
it  is  made.  It  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  eow'fl  milk.  It  is  cylindrical 
in  shape  and  weighs  from  S  to  15  pounds. 

In  the  old  method  of  manufacture  the  evening's  milk  is  heated  to  100°  1\.  and 
the  fresh  morning's  milk  is  added.  It  is  sot  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagu- 
late it  in  35  minutes.  The  breaking  or  cutting  process  requires  35  minutes. 
after  which  the  curd  is  allowed  to  stand  for  4."  minutes  at  00°.  The  whey  is 
then  removed,  and  the  curd  is  put  in  vats  lined  with  cloth  and  light  pressure 
is  applied  for  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  allowed  to  drain  for  1 
hour.  It  is  then  milled  and  is  pressed  for  24  hours,  when  it  Is  wrapped  in 
cloth,  and  finally  put  in  brine  for  3  days. 

In  the  new  method  of  manufacture  the  evening's  milk  and  morning's  milk 
are  mixed  in  a  copper  kettle,  heated  to  95°,  and  enough  rennet  is  added  to 
coagulate  it  in  4">  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  by  hand  or  with  a 
breaker.  The  whey  is  removed  and  the  curd  dipped  into  tin  hoops  where  it 
drains  for  3  hours.  It  is  then  turned  and  drained  for  another  3  hours.  After 
pressing  for  24  hours  the  cheese  is  salted  by  immersion  in  brine  for  3  days. 

WEST  FRIESIAN. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk.  The  milk  is  sot  in  a 
copper  kettle.  1  hour  being  allowed  for  coagulation  The  curd  is  broken  up  and 
placed  in  a  wooden  tub.  where  it  is  kneaded.  The  curd  is  allowed  to  stand  for 
several  hours  and  then  salted.  It  is  pressed  for  3  hours,  washed  in  hot  water, 
wrapped  in  a  tine  cloth  and  again  pressed  for  12  hours.  The  cheese  is  e 
when  1  week  old. 

WESTPHALIA  SOUR  MILK. 

This  is  a  band  cheese  made  in  Westphalia.  Sour  milk  is  stirred  and  heated 
to  100°  F..  and  placed  in  a  sack  and  the  whey  pressed  out.  The  curd  is  then 
kneaded  by  hand  and  salted,  butter  and  caraway  seed  or  pepper  being  added. 
It  is  then  molded  by  hand,  dried  for  a  few  hours,  and  ripened  in  a  cellar. 


60  VARIETIES    OF   CHEESE. 

WHITE. 

Fromage  Blanc,  or  White  cheese,  is  a  skiin-milk  cheese  made  in  France  during 
the  summer  months.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  about  75°  F.  The  curd  is 
usually  molded  into  cylindrical  forms.  The  cheese  is  consumed  while  fresh  and 
may  or  may  not  be  salted. 

WITHANIA. 

This  is  so  called  because  made  with  rennet  manufactured  from  withania 
berries.  Cheese  made  with  the  rennet  of  these  berries  is  said  to  have  an  agree- 
able flavor  if  ripened  to  the  right  degree,  but  it  develops  an  acrid  flavor  with 
age.  The  texture  is  not  so  good  as  with  animal  rennet.  This  form  of  rennet  is 
recommended  for  use  in  India,  where  the  religion  and  prejudice  of  the  people 
make  the  use  of  animal  rennet  impractical. 

ZIEGEL. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  in  Austria  either  from  whole  cow's  milk  or  from  whole 
milk  to  which  15  per  cent  of  cream  has  been  added.  The  cheese  measures  3  by 
2  by  2\  inches,  and  weighs  about  one-half  pound. 

In  making  the  whole-milk  cheese  the  milk  is  warmed  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient 
rennet  is  added  to  coagulate  it  in  30  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  with  a 
harp  and  cut  loose  from  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  after  which  it  is  allowed  to 
remain  undisturbed  for  30  minutes.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  curd,  which  is 
again  matted  together,  is  cut  into  pieces  and  stirred  gently  for  a  considerable 
time,  after  which  it  is  allowed  to  stand  again  for  15  minutes.  The  collected 
whey  is  then  dipped  off  and  the  curd  is  dipped  into  forms  which  are  24  inches 
long,  5  inches  high,  and  hold  the  curd  of  7*  to  8  gallons  of  milk.  Before  the 
form  is  filled  a  cheese  cloth  is  placed  in  it  which  helps  in  turning  the  curd.  The 
curd  remains  in  the  form  24  hours  to  drain  and  is  then  cut  into  measured  sizes 
and  placed  in  another  form,  where  it  is  allowed  to  remain  for  8  days,  the  curd 
being  turned  and  the  board  on  which  the  form  rests  being  changed  daily.  Salt 
is  then  sprinkled  on  the  cheese  and  for  1  month  it  is  washed  in  salt  water  and 
rubbed  with  the  hands  every  day.  It  is  ready  for  market  in  8  weeks  from  the 
time  of  making. 

ZIGER. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  from  the  whey  obtained  in  the  manufacture  of  other 
cheese.  It  consists  principally  of  albumin,  but  where  no  effort  is  made  to  sepa- 
rate the  fat  from  the  whey  the  product  may  contain  a  relatively  high  proportion 
of  fat.  It  is  a  cheap  food  product  made  in  all  the  countries  of  central  Europe. 
Among  the  many  names  applied  to  it  are  Albumin  cheese,  Recuit,  Ricotta, 
Broccio,  Brocotte,  Serac,  and  Ceracee. 

In  the  manufacture  of  this  product  an  effort  is  sometimes  made  to  remove  the 
fat  remaining  in  the  whey,  but  in  most  cases  the  fat  is  allowed  to  remain. 
Where  it  is  desired  to  skim  the  whey  a  small  portion  of  very  sour  whey,  pre- 
viously prepared,  is  added  to  the  sweet  whey  and  the  whole  is  heated  to  160°  to 
175°  F.  for  a  few  minutes,  when  the  fat  collects  on  the  surface  and  can  be 
skimmed,  off.  Following  this  a  greater  portion  of  sour  whey  is  added  and  the 
whey  is  then  heated  nearly  to  the  boiling  point,  when  the  albumin  is  precipitated 
in  a  fiocculent  condition  and  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  whey.  When  the  whey 
is  not  in  normal  condition  the  albumin  may  be  precipitated  in  a  powdery  mass. 
This  is  often  prevented  by  adding  3  to  5  per  cent  of  buttermilk  to  the  whey 


v  \i;i!  mi  -    01     tin  I  61 

before  the   last    heating     The  casein   ,.f  the  buttermilk   is  precipitated,   the 

albumin    I. .in-  -dd.'ied    that    tin-    iddltlOB    I 

injures  the  product    The  Albumin  irhen  skimmed  from  the  vrhej  li  salted  and 

packed  in  a  vessel  and  may  he  covered  with  a  I 
a  Bo-called  formed  Zlger  checee  is  mad.-  by  molding  the  I  I  albumin 

Into  BQUaree  which  may  be  still  further  dried.      Some  of  theee  ha\c  local  names, 

such  as  the  Hudelxlger  made  In  the  canton  of  Qlarus,  Switzerland. 

in  Vorarlberg  the  albumin  is  akimmed  from  the  whey,  allowed  to  cool,  placed 
In  cheese  cloth,  and  subjected  to  Increasing  pressure  in  an  Bmmenta]  cheese 

B,      After  1' I    hours   the  cheese   is  |.iit    into  a   salt    hath   to   whirh   sweet    elder 

and  vinegar  are  sometimes  added. 

a  mixture  of  /.i~r<T  and  cream  prepared  In  the  savoy  is  known  as  Gruau  de 
Montague.  ^\n  albumin  cheese  made  from  the  whey  of  goat's-mllk  cheese  In  the 
Canton  of  Graubtinden,  Switzerland,  is  known  as  Mascarponi. 


ANALYSES   OF   CHEESE. 


Variety. 


Alemtejo.. 

Backstein.. 

Battelmatt 

Bellelay... 

Bondon 

Brick 

Brie 


Brie- 
American 

Brinsen 

Burgundy . . . 
Caciocavallo . 

Caerphilly . . . 
Cambridge . . . 
Camembert.. 


Cantal. 


Authority." 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Hoffman . 
Pereira . . 


Fleischmann. 


Lindt. 


Eugling. 


Benecke 

Lindt 

Chattaway . 

Lindet 

Weems 


Balland. 
Blyth... 

Duclaux . 


von  Klenze . 
Lindet 


Payen . 


Arnold . . 
Johnson . 

Mai  or.. . 


Melikoff 
Balland . 


Sartori . 


Spica 

Chattaway . 
Chattaway. 

Arnold 

Balland 


Chattaway. 

Duclaux... 

Kriiger 

Lindet 

Macoir 

Muter 

Payen 

RoUet 

Stutzer 


Balland. 


Duclaux. 


Lindet 

Patrick  (2) . 


^  Average.. 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 


{Average... 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 


{Average . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 

1 

1 


{Average.. 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 
1 


f  Average... 

^Maximum 

[Minimum. 


41.50 
60.20 
49.20 
37.70 
43.10 
49.70 
52.20 
29.50 
19.76 
22.09 
23.68 
33.24 
15.34 
24.80 
32.10 
50.41 
49.00 
47.90 
43.40 
45.24 
59.42 
53.80 
49.87 
48.78 
51.94 
52.98 
50.90 
28.50 
35.10 
39.00 
43.48 
44.80 
40.70 
40.90 
39.92 


Perct. 
38.25 
27.49 
31.59 
25.27 
2.76 
6.80 
28.16 
37.40 
24.08 
29.42 
20.52 
30.10 
30.05 
24.40 
23.00 
28.86 
22.45 
28.93 
24.80 
27.50 
29.50 
24.60 
21.42 
22.50 
24.83 
25.73 

36. 15 
20.96 
22.30 
32.60 
27.70 
27.00 
26.20 
38.55 
36.71 
35.90 
25.49 
30.09 
19.00 
30.40 
47.10 
20.55 
21.65 
21.90 
22.60 
30.31 
17.24 
22.00 
25.54 
21.35 
21.05 
23.71 
27.30 
34.10 
28.30 
26.90 
25.70 
31.10 
22.50 
29.30 
28.14 


Pro- 

Milk 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 

sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

20.87 

3.06 

21.45 

4.66 

24.33 

5.24 

17.77 

3.82 

19.84 

2.17 

23.85 

3.48 

23.14 

24.44 

22.99 

2.35 

24.48 

3.35 

21.22 

2.25 

25.70 

28.88 

9.40 

16.10 

23.80 

19.94 

4.85 

19.04 

6.63 

18.10 

18.34 

19.94 

17.16 

17.29 

18.00 

14.94 

18.48 

4.93 

17.63 

15.94 

1.37 

23.10 

1.00 

25.20 

2.70 

19.  SO 

1.20 

14.30 

1.80 

14.40 

1.30 

28.84 

1.65 

37.83 

36.06 

29.25 

35.09 

22.16 

37.20 

24.60 

25.49 

18.72 

5.95 

21.80 

24.40 

19.75 

17.13 

4.70 

17.10 

18.76 

21.07 

18.90 

4.40 

19.12 

18.66 

28.38 

4.46 

24.98 

7.22 

24.22 

5.93 

22.55 

6.47 

24.10 

7.50 

21.50 

4.30 

20.50 

28.84 

Total 
ash. 


Per  ct. 

7.60 

6.07 

6.40 

5.87 

2.11 

4.83 

3.46 

2.36 

2.87 

3.14 

2.71 

4.72 

3.48 

.70 

5.00 

4.20 

3.96 

1.50 

5.00 

4.12 

37 

57 

60 

00 

63 


4 
3 
S 
4 
5 
5.61 


4.70 
1.53 
4.40 
5.80 
7.30 
6.80 
6.00 
1.46 
5.60 
5.80 
7.63 
10.50 
5.79 
3.40 
4.40 
3.52 
4.68 
4.70 
3.80 
4.70 
1.56 
4.40 
5.83 
3.46 
4.71 
4.19 
3.14 
4.56 
4.40 
3.95 


4.80 
4.50 


62 


a  See  Sources  of  analytical  data  for  details. 


\   M!ll 


•lllo,l. 


Variety. 


Authority 


..titilyse*. 


Cbedd 

American. 


Cheddar- 
Canadian  . 


Cheddar- 
English. 


Cheddar- 
Queensland. 


(  nl.iw.Ml 


Clark. 


Cooke. 


urn  .  . 
Minimum. . 

Maximum . . 
Minimum. . . 
I  \\< ■■ 
8M  Maximum . . 
[Minimum. . . 
•  age 

3 


Drew 201  Average . . . 

(  Average. . . 
Goessmann. . 


<>'  Maximum 
[Minimum. . 

(\  \  orage . . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 

Snyder 5  Average 

50*  Average... 

i  Average. . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 
(Average. . 
9«{  Maximum 
iMinimum. 

{Average.. 
Maximum 
Minimum. 
4  Average 

{Average... 
Maximum  . 
Minimum.. 


Wilson 


Chattaway . 

Clark 


Shuttehvorth. 


{Average... 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 
5g  Average. . 
6  Average  f> . 
135  Averages. 
135  Average  i. 


Blyth 2  Average 

{Average... 
Maximum. 
Minimum . . 

Griffiths l 

Hassall 1 

Jones 1 


28  M 
40.04 

u.  15 

[34.62 

31.0.-, 
40.32 
45.  41 

33.09 
38.36 
26.48 
32.71 
37.14 
36.84 
43.89 
32.69 
36.06 
41.15 
32.23 
34.01 
38.10 
29.85 
32.39 
36.42 
41.65 
30.25 
130.53 
^31.70 
43.82 


Average. 


Lloyd 31<Maximum 

Minimum. 

Average.. 
Voelcker 13^Maximum 

.Minimum. 
Von  Klenze 1. 


Briinnich. 


21.77 

41.58 

36.18 

5.98 

30.60 
22.54 
25.67 
20.13 
35  51 
36.06 
33.81 
32. 97 


33.30 
34.07 
36.58 
32.28 
34.60 
32.  53 
36.54 
33.51 

28.10 
35.00 
37.70 
33.00 

30.10 

36.  04 

37.  73 

36.  \u 
39.  43 

30.32 


35. 17 
[27.67 


II.  17 

10.11) 

23.91 
26.68 

20.19 
83.4] 

29.89 
34.94 
22.13 
21.93 
31.76 
15.38 
26.81 
23.64 
23.72 
26.11 
20.80 
24.45 
28.72 
18.45 
25.69 
30.09 
21.53 
26.57 
21.15 
32.09 
14.11 
23.38 
27.19 
45.04 

27.60 
40.02 
43.52 
33.82 
23.18 
23.94 
23.96 
24.94 

45.60 
27.72 
29.00 
26.70 
22.98 
30.15 
28.98 
30.04 
35.10 

27.80 
32.37 
23.28 
33.47 


add, 


1.99 
2.34 
1.65 


.61 
.76 
.51 


:..  02 
1.36 
2.68 
.41 
2.45 
1.95 
3.12 


3. 33 
3.73 


3.74 

.',.  1  I 

4.09 

4.73 
2.43 


2.10 


c4.57 
c  5. 61 
7.02 
3.12 
3.61 
5.29 
1.81 
C3.50 
4.59 
2.72 
4. 57 
3.81 
4.61 
2.55 
2.06 
2.98 
2.06 

3.60 

.     3.45 

1    3.93 

3.14 

C6.70 

c7.48 

c5.69 

c8.58 

4.10 
3.12 
4.30 
3.90 
4.22 
8.21 

4.05 
4.60 
3.40 

4.31 
2.06 
3.40 


24.59    4.09         1.44 

4. 04 


I'l 


.70 
1.55 


a  The  15  analyses  are  each  the  average  of  5  monthly  analyses.     The  green  cheese  was  analyzed  by 
"Wallace. 
b  Green  cheese  made  at  New  York  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station.  : 
c  Sugar,  ash,  etc. 

d  Green  cheese  made  at  numerous  factories  in  New  York,  1892  and  1893. 
e  Age  of  cheese,  seven  weeks. 
/  Age  of  cheese,  five  months. 
g  Green  cheese 
ft  Age  of  cheese,  1  month. 
i  Cured  cheese. 


64 


VAKIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Variety. 


Authority. 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Fat. 


Pro- 
teids, 
amids, 

etc. 


Milk 

?S'  * 

acid, 
etc. 


Cheshire. 


Arnold . 
Balland. 


Blades. 


Chattaway. 


Griffiths. 
Lindet... 

Paven . . . 


Cotherstone.. 

Coulommiers. 

Cream— 

EngUsh.. 


Cream- 
French  Demi-Sel. 


Crescenza 

Danish  Export. 


Derbyshire . 
Dorset 


Dunlop. 
Edam.. 


Edam — American . 


Emmental. 


Engandine 

Formaggini  di  Lecco. 
Gammelost 


Gervais. 


Voelcker. 
Griffiths. 
Voelcker. 
Balland.. 
Lindet... 


Chattaway . 

Hassall 

Payen 

Vieth 

Balland 


Lindet... 
Duclaux. 


Storch. 


Sheldon.. 
Griffiths . 
Vieth.... 
Jones 

Arnold . . 
Balland.. 


Cribb. 


Dahl. 


Hassall 

von  Klenze . 

Lindet 

Mayer 

Patrick  (2) . 
Payen 


Haecker. 


Van  Slyke. 


Benecke . 


Hornig 

von  Klenze . 

Lindt 


do... 

Cornalba . 
Voelcker. 

Balland.. 


Konig 

Richmond . 
Stutzer 


4 


Maximum 
Minimum. 


Per  ct. 

1 24.69 

1 22.60 

Average 44.59 

'  52.60 

36.10 

J37.80 

\31.60 

27.55 

31.10 

J30.  39 

\35. 92 

J36. 96 

|132.  59 

38.20 

1(38.28 

\38.23 

50.40 

53.00 

57.80 

[57.60 
J-4.00 
30.34 
9.48 
36.49 
47.94 
27.69 
52.10 

49.60 
56.75 
45.99 
49.88 
38.78 
31.60 
41.44 
41.55 
38.46 
29.23 
29.56 
37. 90 
38.50 
51.66 
60.38 
41.70 
32.  57 
33.62 
42.85 
30.10 
41.88 
42.60 
33.20 


[Average.. 

8<  Maximum 

[Minimum. 


1 

1 

{Average . . . 
Maximum. 
Minimum.. 

1 

1 

1 

1 


[Average . . 

4-^  Maximum. 

Minimum 


3a 

{[Average — 
18  <*<  Maximum. 
[Minimum . . 
Average 
Maximum . . 
Minimum 

1 

1 

{Average 
Maximum . . 
Minimum. .. 


1 

{Average . . 
Maximum 
Mi7iimura . 

1 

1 

1 


Per  ct. 
37.08 
39.50 
21.55 
30.67 
9.85 
31.30 
35.30 
36.00 
32.30 
25.48 
26.34 
29.34 
32.51 
30.25 
30.89 
29.12 
20.45 
21.50 
25.00 

39.30 
68.10 
67.32 
59.88 
56.08 
66.80 
43.76 
25.20 

34.00 
21.34 
13.41 
23.70 

9.34 
35.20 
27.56 

8.76 
31.86 
28.71 
27.43 
25.90 
24.29 
11.85 
24.40 

3.83 
32.19 
33.99 
26.73 
27.57 
24.05 
20.00 
28.00 
29.58 
27.54 
25.06 
23.21 
25.37 
23.30 
24  42 
31.75 
19.73 
23.92 
34  70 

5.75 
30.29 
27.99 
30.50 
33.37 
28.54 
11.40 
19.20 
41.50 

3.36 
31.98 
40.47 
26.85 
29.75 
57.79 
36.73 


Per  ct. 
33.36 
27.16 
29.25 
32.95 
24.44 
25.70 
26.50 
31.00 
30.90 
34.75 
25.99 
24.08 
26.06 
23.82 
23.93 
24.38 
17.41 
16.90 
13.00 

19.00 

20.10 
2.02 

18.40 
5.28 
8.77 
2.00 

13.49 

11.80 
18.91 
30.01 
34.00 
27.69 
24.50 
22.25 
44  09 
25.87 
33.89 
32.31 
27.32 
25.34 
26.82 
31.92 
24  00 
23.98 
23.48 
19.39 
32.81 
29.47 
23.90 
29.60 
28.41 
29.43 
25.63 
21.49 
22.69 
24.24 
22.18 
24.70 
18.95 
30.97 
37.65 
25.51 
29.99 
32.23 
30.34 
37.51 
30.44 
36.34 
16.37 
35.80 
42.12 
11.30 
19.94 

7.20 
11.80 

7.90 
15.48 


Per  ct. 


).80 


2.21 


7.59 
5.17 
4.53 
3.81 
3.70 
2.76 
4.80 


5.77 

1.27 

2.50 

.22 

8.28 


5.10 
5.90 
2.65 
4.38 
4.24 


4.08 
9.07 


6.35 
6.34 
5.15 


2.60 


3.83 
3.79 
2.92 


31 


Per  ct. 
4.85 
3.94 
4.61 
5.00 
3.90 
4.20 
4.40 
3.24 
3.70 
4.78 
4.16 
4.45 
4.31 
3.92 
3.20 
5.51 
6.94 
5.70 
4.10 

3.40 
1.20 

.32 
6.47 

.82 
1.48 

.44 

.93 

3.00 
2.90 
3.63 
4.17 
3.33 
4.24 
4.51 
5.60 
3.81 
8.14 
8.49 
4.80 
2.80 
6.04 
7.33 
5.54 
4.67 
2.42 
5.62 
6.84 
4.60 
5.50 
6.60 
5.55 
6.93 
6.21 
3.02 
2.59 
3.68 

b  5.  80 
9.46 
2.51 
6.85 

11.09 
460 
5.88 
4.60 
4.17 
4.95 
3.38 
4  96 
3.43 
6.10 
2.22 


1.42    

.25    

2.93    

.50  ! 

2.95  I        .76 


a  Green  cheese. 


b  Sugar,  ash,  etc. 


VAlll] 


mtinaed. 


Kascaval 

Katsehkawalj 

Krutt 

a  Abnormally  high  ash  content  was  due  to  a  gypsum  preparation   with  ■■  ■> 

coated. 
b  Green  cheese. 
c  Caraway  seed. 

10415°— Bull.  146—11 5 


66 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 
Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Variety. 

Authority. 

Number  of 
analyses. 

Water. 

Fat. 

Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 

Milk 

sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 

etc. 

Total 
ash. 

Salt  In 
ash. 

Laguiole 

Balland 

Griffiths 

Voelcker 

Mayer 

1... 

Per  ct. 
34.50 
34.77 

[35.  21 

Perct. 
25.20 
28.00 
27.28 

Perct. 
28.70 
27.86 
27.93 
29.06 
35.90 
28.53 
35.  05 
23.58 
23.00 
31.76 
25.90 
37.33 
20.20 
23.31 
8.14 
7.62 
20.10 
25.30 
16.86 
18.17 
15.50 
8.88 
10.78 
6.79 
9.06 
7.66 
9.19 
6.34 
17.60 
14.43 
23.10 
20.73 
16.67 
17.00 
13.03 
14.18 
24.04 
15.03 
32.72 
31.63 
31.29 
29.93 
33.12 
42.12 
13.98 
41.04 
38.02 
55.85 
43.60 
38.42 
42.27 
35.00 
43.54 
48.93 
38.33 
35.55 
44.08 
34.25 
35.15 
33.51 
35.59 
30.74 
7.30 
36.60 
43.28 
29.35 
34.45 
27.00 
30.36 
20.32 
17.80 

20.64 
31.16 
22.56 
24.29 
24.80 
23.66 

Per  ct. 
6.15 
5.21 
5.54 
4.42 
1.00 

"".'38' 
8.05 

' "8*84' 

"6."  88' 
9.75 

'44.' 84' 
53.03 
30.75 
41.01 
53.24 
61.38 
46.00 
5.12 
5.98 

"i.'42' 
1.32 
6.96 
9.02 

"2."  94' 
8.59 
10.36 
7.90 
6.47 
6.39 
9.85 
5.16 
.16 

"6."  69" 

*"2."49* 
2.75 
2.16 

"6."  68' 
"2. 04* 

Per  ct. 
5.45 
4.16 
4.04 
4.35 
5.20 
5.98 
6.69 
4.82 
5.10 
4.44 
4.40 
3.38 
4.50 
5.93 

.68 

.50 
3.89 
4.30 
4.96 
4.75 
5.00 
4.76 
6.09 
3.28 
4.92 
5.75 
6.38 
5.06 
1.33 
4.20 
3.40 
3.56 
2.49 
2.85 
3.63 

.51 
3.90 
2.48 
3.79 
3.41 
3.17 
4.84 
5.13 
2.22 
4.30 
10.89 
1.79 
8.14 
6.20 
5.45 
5.07 
5.20 
6.29 
7.18 
5.20 
4.82 
5.72 
7.09 
6.23 
6.24 
6.84 
5.31 

.60 
5.25 
5.06 

6!  18 
5.10 
3.97 
1.60 
4.00 

2.54 
4.00 
4.00 
3.69 
5.30 
3.67 

Perct. 

1 

2 

1.03 

Leyden 

1 

\32. 89  I  i\).  za 
46.90  <  11- on 

1.21 
1  40 

Limburg— American. . . 

Arnold 

Johnson 

Balland 

Lindet 

[Average 

4< Maximum ... 

iMinimum 

1 

35.  64 
48.60 
23.26 
42.12 
33.80 
52.20 
53.74 
40.30 
40.07 
J45.88 
\43.38 
43.20 
58.70 
f45.  40 
\37.  50 
52.40 
23.57 
26.49 
18.58 
24.21 
29.43 
38.01 
24.37 
/50.80 
\54.80 
37.90 
51.72 
/56.08 
157.83 
J34.47 
136.58 
37.45 
57.25 
[48.51 
^47. 12 
140.54 
[43.87 
-M5.39 
[42.44 
28.40 
44.54 
52.49 
23.01 
32.50 
/30.09 
132.56 
34.00 
32.16 
36.11 
30.20 
35.39 
J27.56 
130.31 
34.57 
29.80 
32.90 
27.47 
54.60 
f  3.59 
1  5.20 
24.07 
30.95 
11.62 
44.57 
46.40 
51.00 

26.02 
27.70 

29.82 
34.98 
21.29 
29.40 
21.95 
15.00 

5.55 
33.50 
28.73 
45.30 
49.50 
23.97 

9.70 
25.90 
29.83 
24.40 
16.26 
20.98 

9.63 
20.80 

4.08 
10.54 
.07 
25.15 
20.59 
41.30 
23.99 
23.34 
21.00 
41.91 
40.71 
34.60 
22.30 

6.13 

7.36 
16.87 
15.89 

9.97 

3.36 
48.16 

3.37 

7.70 
12.49 
17.10 
26.04 
21.75 
23.00 
19.13 
23.42 
12.58 
19.72 
15.95 
21.68 
24.05 
30.51 
31.30 
29.96 
35.00 
54.56 
46.46 
38.12 
45.20 
33.26 
21.80 
25.00 
23.10 

50.80 
35.10 

3.  51 

1.  . 

1 

2.90 

Mainz  Hand 

von  Klenze 

Lindet 

1 

1.... 

3.30 

1... 

Mascarpone 

Fascetti 

Balland 

Lindet 

Balland 

Lindet 

Dahl 

2.... 

Mont-d'Or 

1. 

Miinster 

1 

2 

(Average 

6-J Maximum  ... 
[Minimum 

[Average 

22] Maximum  ... 
IMinimum 

2 

i 

1 

1.90 

Mysost 

"3.' 70 

Neufchatel 

Voelcker 

Werenskiold 

Balland 

Blyth 

von  Klenze 

Martin 

2 

2 

1 

1 

3 

3 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1.44 

1.90 

Neufchatel — American. 

Nogelost 

Johnson 

Dahl 

1.42 

Olivet 

Voelcker 

Balland 

Hornig 

Soxhlet 

Arnold 

Chattaway 

Duclaux 

Lindet 

Manetti 

Patrick  (2) 

Pa yen 

Olmutz 

Parmwan 

"*i."7« 
1.6i 
1.70 

[Average 

8< Maximum  ... 

iMinimum 

1 

2 

Soxhlet 

1 

Peeorino 

Sartori 

[Average 

^Maximum  ... 

IMinimum 

1... 

4.95 
5.51 

Petit  Suisse 

Lindet 

4.34 
.10 

Clark 

2 

Pont-l'Ev6que 

Johnson 

Arnold 

[Average 

4< Maximum  ... 

(Minimum 

1 

""2.24 
2.61 
1.86 

Balland 

Lindet 

1 

1.90 

Pont-1'Eveque— 

American 

Arnold 

1 

Port  du  Salut 

Balland 

Duclaux 

Lindet 

Rollet 

1.  . 

2 

1 

1 

J  47. 51      25.93 
148.02     24.00 
38.10  i  24.50 
46.46     26.31 

1.90 
1.56 
2.20 
1.31 

\  -  Villi 


inued 


Vur 

NumiImt  ..f 

M 

■ vun     C 1 u  b 

-•' 

1 

1 

10   15 

21.13 
2a  21 

i  m 
t 

411 

7.'.K) 
3  73 

I 

Boflnuuui 

Cornalba. 

1. 

Rabblola            

5.80 

1.22 

i.mdet      

18.78 

.M 

3.  70 
-    i 

401 

L80 

\\  ervnskiold 

Eornig 

1 

(66.60 
[61.23 

13.  11 

i7.fi:. 
-.».  16 



\|>I1  Klcll/r.  .  .     . 
Lindet 

1 

43.21 
65.  16 

10.58 

11.90 
1 1  76 

19.60 

8.  10 

400 

5.  47 

1 

3.90 

Patrick  (2) 

1 

Yieth.  .. 

4-1.  56 
[28  35 

16.  16 

0.  57 

480 

Arnold 

3 

{28.  87 

33.70 

8.24 

|22.47     34.02 

Balland 

1 

28. 90     38.  30 

25.  16 

3.00 

464 

Bell 

1 

32.  26 

27.10 

1.32 

4.88 

Chattawav 

1 

29.  GO     30.  30 

0.70 

Horarig 

1 

36.93     31.23     25.79 

4.7s 

Johxivon 

1 

19.28 

. 

1.77 

(..  80 

5.27 

von  Klenze 

1 

34.  14 

21  '.»'_' 

5.00 

Lindet 

30. 90  !  29.  .50 

7.00 

5.10 

Muter 

1 

21.56  !  35.96 

10.24 

Patrick  (2) 

1 

34.37     34.54     24.40 

6.  1" 

Payen 

2 

[26.53     32.31 
30.14 

31.  69 

4.45 

3.72 

5.07 

Sieber 

2 

J23.  .54     40.  13 

)3G.  93     31.  23 

27.00 
25.  79 

6.27 
4.78 

Ricotta 

Sartori 

1" 

G8.47 
[43.80     30.46 

18.72 

3.97 
10.  30 

3.  62 

.72 

Sartori 

3  6 

{42.48  j  31.  G4 

13.  til 

11.49 

.78 

(43.29     31.90 

12.94 

10.  75 

1.02 

Saloio 

Hoffmann 

1 

9 

76.25        1.78 
J54.  37 
\45.81 

11.37 
13.63 

5.28 
2. 90 

5.32 
3.20 

2.49 

2.04 

15.  lt> 

5.97 

5.  26 

3.  17 

Sap  Sago 

Arnold 

1 

13.  30     15.  52 

13.  57 

Benecke 

47.  02       6.  (0 

10.10 

von  Klenze 

1 

38. 17      12.  27 

45.  73 

3.83 

Balland 

2 

(52.  40 

\49.  70       6.  45 

28.84 
27.  32 

9.38 

12.53 

3.48 
4.00 

Balland 

1 

28  20     31.  25 

32  00 

3.99 

4.50 

[Average 

43.58  !  27.09 

22.02 

2.09 

4.00 

Serra  da  Estrella 

Biittner 

5<  Maximum  ... 

47.98  !  34.56 

24.03 

6.13 

4.35 

[Minimum 

35.  22      19.  70 

20.40 

3.51 

Hoffmann 

1 

31.87  '  40.05 
39.34 

22.18 
23.48 

2.24 
3.93 

3.66 
5.79 

[Average 

- 

12<  Maximum  .. . 
[Minimum 

50.  07     37.  93 

24. 38  1  19.  30 

32.10 
17.83 

6.78 

.78 

8.% 
3.23 

[Average 

53.99      19.30 

21.32 

2.03 

3.30 

Servian 

Zega 

l«Maximum  .. . 
[Minimum 

68. 84     32.  20 

42.10       7.77 

32.  37 
14  66 

5.  12 
85 

4.81 
2.40 

3.  13 

.  93 

Spalen 

Benecke 

1 

28.  1 4 

30.78 

7.38 

(19.  40 

21.10 

Stilton 

Chattaway 

3 

J21.20  1  45.80 
125.00     3460 

28.40 

2.90 

4.10 

Griffiths 

1 

31.22     87.24 

3.40 

3.86 

TIassall 

1 

31.37 

Muter 

1 

30.70 

1.08 

4.02 

.75 

Patrick  (2) 

1 

32.  97 

23.19 

3.  24 

Voelcker 

2 

(32.  18     37.  36 

33.55 

3.93 

- 

Swiss — American 

Arnold 

1 . . . 

38.51 

470 

(41.43 

22.  13 

2.90 

3.34 

Haecker 

3r 

33.  21 

2482 

3.  32 

3.06 

3.  24 

Johnson 

1 

33.79 

26.  12 

1.77 

5.07 

6 

(Average 

4.  43 

5.78 

Swiss — Russian 

Kalantarow 

*>  -Maximum. . . 

0.90 

7.44 

[Minimum 

29.80  !  28.97 

.57 

4.36 

1.45 

36.  44 

23.20 

6.11 

4  78 



Swiss— Swedish 

Dahl 

3 

{38.64 

23.  21 

4.36 

439 

32.05 

24.  76 

4.59 

2.39 

Tessel 

Mayer 

1 

54.40 

1  18.30 

20.10 

1.40 

5.80 

3.40 

a  From  cow's  milk. 


6  From  sheep's  milk. 


c  Green  cheese. 


68 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Variety. 

Authority. 

Number  of 
analyses. 

Water. 

Fat. 

Pro  1  Milk 
etc-       etc. 

Total 
ash. 

Salt  in 
ash. 

Blin. 

Per  ct. 
30.14 
72.44 
60.27 
45.90 
58.70 
54.02 
45.87 
48.69 
56.33 
29.63 
28.50 
42.99 
55.  85 
32. 92 
J56.  61 
15X58 
[31.97 
^33.61 
[33.  53 
28.30 
37.23 
36.34 
(34.  44 
J  39.  22 
[40.07 
[68.  51 
{74.74 
[68.  47 
31.00 

Per  ct. 

15.00 

6.22 

7.33 

26.10 

18.60 

23.74 

27.21 

20.90 

30.61 

10.80 

30.93 

17.02 

31.99 

2.82 

4.48 

Per  ct. 
18.12 
16.91 
24.84 
23.30 
14.60 
18.98 
25.29 
27.97 
45.52 
17.74 
34.19 
31.19 
40.11 
25.65 
36.42 

Per  ct. 

"'3.67' 

3.54 

"2.04" 

**3.  TO' 
7.21 
1.81 

**7.'i6" 
1.95 
2.84 

"3."  88* 

"3."  60* 
2.28 
2,24 
3.97 
3.93 
3.97 



Per  ct. 
6.10 
1.36 
4.02 
4.00 
4.80 
3.08 
1.63 
4.43 
5.58 
3.10 
6.38 
4.94 
6.89 
3.79 
2.49 
2.49 
4.36 
5.60 
4.55 
3.70 
4.55 
4.41 
4.25 
5.02 
5.33 
2.31 
2.02 
3.62 
.90 

Per  ct. 
4.80 

Topfen 

Trappist 

Rubner 

Adametz 

Lindet 

Benecke 

Lindt 

Fallot 

Troyes 

3.70 

1.77 

"*2.*79 
3  68 

Vendome 

(Average 

6{  Maximum 

iMinimum 

1 

[Average 

9-!  Maximum 

[Minimum 

2 

Viterbo 

Sartori 

Eugling 

von  Klenze 

Voelcker 

Chattaway 

Griffiths 

Jones 

Voelcker 

Eugling 

von  Klenze 

2.08 
5  03 

Vorarlberg 

Warwickshire 

3 

4.  56      42.  37 
29.  08  l  27.  43 
30.04  j  29.70 
30.89  j  28.19 
33.  30     27  20 

"""".72 
2  78 

Wensleydale 

1 

1 

1.12 

Wiltshire 

27.82 

28.00 

28.71 

19.26 

25.55 

3.15 

4.33 

5.22 

3.48 

26.52 
31.12 
29.00 
34.22 
26.81 
22.13 
14.99 
18.72 
64.62 

Ziger 

1 

3 

3 

""i.03 

.60 

1.41 

1 

SOURCES  OF  ANALYTICAL  DATA.1 

1.    An  \  \n  IB,   I.. 

:■  .i  e   Herstellung  and   Zusammensetzung  dea  boanlachen   Trappls- 
tenk&aea.    Milch  Zeltung,  Jahrg.  21,  No.  i:».  p.  BIO  :;i:;.     Bremen,  May 
7.  L892. 
2.  Auroi  d,  L.  B. 

Cheese   and    cheese    making.    American    Dairymen's    Association,    14th 
Amumi  Report,  for  the  year  ending  Jan.  15,  1879.    Utica,  N.  Y.,  L879, 
See  p.  l 
Translated  abstract.     Milch   Zeltnng,   Jahrg.   8,  No.  32,  p.  468-470,  Aug, 
•  i;  No.  :;:;.  p.  4s4.  Aug.  13;  No.  34,  p.  500-502,  Aug.  20.     Bremen,  1870. 
•  p.  502. 
3.  Bali. and.  A. 

Les  aliments.     Paris,  1907.     See  vol.  2,  p.  237-24S. 

4.  Bell,  James. 

The  analysis  and  adulteration  of  foods.  2  parts.  Illus.  20  cm.  Lon- 
don, 1881.     See  also  citations  15,  49.  53,  ~>L 

5.  Benecke,  F.,  and  Schulze,  EL 

Cntersnchnngen   liber  den   Emmenthaler   Kiise  und   iiber   einige  andere 
BChweizerische   Klisesorten.     Landwirtschaftliche   Jahrbiieher,   vol.    10, 
p.  317-400.     Berlin,  1SS7.     See  p.  338,  373. 
6.  Blades,  <  Jh  \;::  i  s  M. 

Cheshire  cheese.    The  Analyst,  vol.  19,  p.  131-133.     London,  June,  1S94. 

7.  Blin,  Henri. 

L'industrie  froinagere  en  Loir-et-Cher.  Le  fromage  de  Thenay.  Jour- 
nal d'Agriculture  Pratique,  ann.  61,  vol.  2,  No.  49,  p.  S7G-879.  Paris, 
Dec.  9,  1897. 

8.  Blytii,  Alexander  Wynteb,  and  Blyth,  Meredith  Wywteb. 

Foods;  their  composition  and  analysis.  5th  ed.  London,  1903.  Sec 
p.  306. 

9.  Boggild,  B. 

Eine  Analyse  der  Gislev-kiise.  T'geskrift  for  Landm&nd,  IT.  No.  20,  lyin. 
Abstract.  Biedermann's  Centralblatt  fur  Agrikulturchemie,  Jahrg.  20, 
p.  2S7.    Leipzig,  1891. 

10.  Bbunnich,  J.  C. 

Analyses  of  cheese  and  butter  manufactured  at  the  Queensland  Agricul- 
tural   <  Gatton.     Queensland   Agricultural    Journal,    vol.   9,    I 
4.  p.  424-428.    Brisbane,  Oct.,  1901. 

11.  [BlTTNER.   CI 

See  citation 

12.  [Caldv 

Alpwirthschaftliche  Monatsblatter,  p.  158.    i^~:  citation  j 


1  References  inclosd  in  brackets  hare  not  been  consulted  in  the  original. 

G9 


70  VAKIETIES   OF   CHEESE.* 

13.  Chattaway,  Wm.  ;  Pearmain,  T.  H. ;  and  Moor,  C.  G. 

On  the  composition  of  cheese.  The  Analyst,  vol.  19,  p.  145-147.  London, 
July,  1894. 

14.  The  composition   of  some  English   cheeses.     The  Analyst,   vol.   20,   No. 

231,  p.  132-134.     London,  June,  1895. 

15.  Clark,  R.  D. 

Report  on  Cheese.  New  York  State  Dairy  Commissioner,  3rd  Annual  Re- 
port for  1886.     Albany,  1887.     See  p.  50,  62. 

16.  Composition  of  Canadian  cheese.     Ibid.,  5th  Annual  Report  for  the  year 

1888.     Albany,  1889.     See  p.  422. 

17.  Ibid.,  7th  Annual  Report  for  the  year  1890.     Albany,  1891.     See  p.  300. 

18.  Cooke,  W.  W.,  and  Hills,  J.  L. 

Making  cheese  from  different  qualities  of  milk.  Vermont  Agricultural 
Experiment  Station,  5th  Annual  Report  [for]  1891.  Burlington,  1S92. 
See  p.  90. 

Id.    CORNALBA,    G. 

I  formaggini  di  lecco.  L'  Industria  Lattiera  e  Zootecnica,  vol.  5,  No.  5,  p. 
35.     Reggio-Emilia,  March  1,  1907. 

20.  I  formaggi  molli  di  lusso.     II  coltivatore,  vol.  53,  No.  49.  p.  713-717.     Casale 

Monferrato,  Dec.  8,  1907. 

21.  Cribb,  Cecil  H. 

Note  on  Dutch  cheese.  The  Analyst,  vol.  31,  No.  361,  p.  105-111.  Lon- 
don, Apr.,  1906. 

22.  Dahl. 

Ueber  Norwegens  Natur,  Rindviehhaltung  und  Molkereiwirthschaft. 
Milchzeitung,  Jahrg.  1,  No.  16,  p.  185-191,  May  15;  No.  18,  p.  205-212, 
June, 15.     Danzig,  1872.     See  p.  210. 

23.  Drew,  Charles  W. 

Report  upon  cheese.  Minnesota  State  Dairy  and  Food  Commissioner, 
3rd  Biennial  Report.     Minneapolis,  1890.     See  p.  235. 

24.  Duclaux,  Pierre  Emile. 

Le  lait.     2d  ed.     Paris,  1S94.     See  p.  259-311. 

25.  Eugling,  Wm.,  and  Klenze,  von. 

Versuche  auf  dem  gebiete  der  alpenwirthschaft.     Milch-zeitung,  Jahrg.  7. 

No.  11,  p.  141-143.  Mar.  13;  No.  12,  p.  157-160,  Mar.  20,  187S ;  Jahrg. 

9,  No.  40,  p.  597-599,  Oct.  6,  1880.     Bremen.  1S7S-S0. 
[Bericht  iiber  die  Thatigkeit  der  Versuchsstatzon  des  Landes  vorarlberg. 

1875-6.     Bregenz.     p.  12.]     See  citation  38,  p.  331. 

26.  [Fallot. 

Premier  Congres  International  Hygiene  Alimentaire,  4th  sec,  Paris,  1905. 
Analyses  made  at  Laboratory,  Loir-et-Cher,  Blois,  France.] 

27.  Fascetti,  G. 

Preparazione  e  composizione  del  formaggio  lombardo  alia  crema  denomi- 
nato  "  Mascarpone."  Annuario  delta  Reale  Stazione  Sperimentale  di 
Caseificio  di  Lodi,  aim.  1902.     Lodi,  1903.     See  p.  71. 

28.  [Fleischmann,  W. 

Bericht  iiber  die  Wirksamkeit  der  milchwirtschaftlichen  Versuchs-stationen 
und  des  Molkarei— Institutes  Raden,  1880,  p.  34 ;  1884,  p.  30 ;  Rostock, 
1881,  1885.]     See  citation  39,  p.  334. 

29.  Goesmann.  C.  A. 

Massachusetts  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  Amherst,  6th  An- 
nual Report,  1888.     Boston,  1889,     See  p.  239. 


\  \i;m  i  ,1 

An.ii\ s,-s   ,i.  tei  ••      Bulletin   d 

Chlmlq  It,  Mr.  ;:.  irol   7.  p  l>j 

."•1.    II  \i  i  ki  ,:.     |      i 

Manufacture  of  swift  curd  I'liccsc.     Minnesoi  Iment 

Station,  Bulletin  No     IS*  p.   LCM  12&    it  Antbonj  Perk,  Oct,   1894 
Bee  p.  115,  122,  12T. 
82.  ii  kMAi .  Am  in  i  ihi  i . 

.i:  Lta  adulterations  ami  tin-  methpdi  tot  tbeli  detection.     London, 
istc.    Bee  p.  160. 
::;.  i lot  i  m  v.w.  m. 

I>io    niilch\virtschaf:lirlion  Wrhaltnissr  Portugal*,      Milch  Zeitung.,  Jahrg. 

U7,  No,  IS,  p.  UH-199.    Bremen,  Mar.  28,  1888. 
14,  [iioumc. 

Beitrftge  sur  Qescblchte,  Teehnlk  mid  Statletik  der  K&aerei  YYU-n.  I860, 
p.  40. 1     Bee  citation  39,  pp.  327.  329.  330,  33r>.  ::n. 

35.  Johnson,   s.  W. 

Analyses  p|  smno  American  cheese.     Connecticut  Agricultural  Experiment 
Station.  Annual  Report.,  1S92.     New  Haven,  1S93.     Sec  p.  1 56. 
96.  [Jonwl] 

Cited  from  White.  Henry.  Report  on  the  exhibition  of  cheese  at  Chester 
in  July.  1858.  Journal  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  Society,  vol.  19,  p. 
420.     London.  1858. 

37.  [Kalantarow,   A.   von. 

Ueber  die  chemsche  Zusammensetzung  einiger  russischer  Kiise.  Journal 
Russian  riiysico-chernical  Society,  vol.  14.  section  1,  pp.  155,156.  St. 
Petersburg.  Iss2.  Cited  from  Berichte  der  deutschen  chemischen 
gesellscbaft,  Jahrg.  15,  Jau.-June.  p.  1220.     Berlin,  1SS2. 

38.  Klenze,  II.  L.  vox. 

Versuche  Qber  die  Verdaulichkeit  rerschiedener  Kiisesorten.  Milch 
Zeitung,  Jahrg.  14.  No.  24,  p.  369-373.     Bremen,  June  10,  1885. 

39.  Koenig,  Franz  Joseph. 

Chemie  der  menschlichen  Nahrungs-  und  Genussmittel.  4.  autl.  Berlin, 
1903.     See  vol.  1,  321,  335. 

40.  Kruger,  R. 

Beitrlige  zur  Herstellung  kamambertartiger  Weichkast>.  MolkereJ  Zeitung, 
Jahrg.  6,  No.  33,  p.  402.  Hildesheim.  Aug.  13.  1892.  [In  this  paper 
Kruger  refers  to  previous  papers  of  his  in  the  same  periodical.] 

41.  Leutner,  W. 

Krutt.  ein  von  den  Kirgisen  bereiteter  Kiise.    Pharmaceutlsche  Zeitschrift 
fiir  Russland.  Jahrg.  24.  No.  1.  pp.  8-9.     St.  Petersburg,  Jan.  fl 
Cited  also  in  Chemikev  Zeitung.  Jahrg.  I),  No.  14,  p.  254.     OBthen,  Feb. 
15,  1885. 

42.  'Lindht,  Am mann.  and  Brugi 

Sur  la  composition  des  principalis  fromages  consommes  en  France,  Revue 
Generate  du  Lait,  Ann.  5,  No.  18,  pp.  416-418.    Lierre,  June  96,  1906. 

43.  [Lindt,  O..  and  Mit.ler,  C. 

Analysen  verschledener  Bchweizerischer  Kttsesorten.  General-bericbt 
iiber  die  ers:e  schweiaerische  Milchproduktenausstellung  in  Bern,  1. 
bis.  11.     Sept.   ist;7,   \on   R.   Sdiatznian.  | 

Abstract  Jahresbericht  iiber  die  Portschritte  auf  dem  Gtesammtgebiete  der 
Agrikultur-Ghemie,  Jab  Berlin,  1868.    See  also  cita- 

tion 39,  pn.  324,  327, 


72  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

44.  Lloyd,  F.  J. 

Observations  on  Cheddar  cheese-making.  Report,  1893.  Journal  of  the 
Bath  and  West  and  Southern  Counties  Society,  ser.  4,  vol.  4,  1893-4, 
pp.  131-175.     London,  1894.     See  p.  161. 

45.  Macoib,  Louis. 

L'industrie  fromagere  en  Franche-Comte.  Bulletin  de  r Agriculture,  vol. 
20,  pp.  376-441.    Bruxelles,  1904.     See  p.  390. 

46.  Maggioba,  Abnaldo. 

Ueber  die  Zusammensetzung  des  iiberreifen  Kases.  Archiv  fur  Hygiene, 
vol.  14,  No.  2,  pp.  216-224.     Miinchen  nnd  Leipzig,  1892.     See  p.  220. 

47.  [Maiob,  G. 

Die  tzigaja-race,  ihre  Eigenschaften  und  ihre  wirtschaftliche  Nutsbarkeit. 
Inaug.-diss.  Halle,  1887.]  Cited  from  Thiele,  Paul.  Einiges  fiber 
Schafkasefabrikation  in  Siebenbiirgen.  Milch.  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  26,  No. 
46,  pp.  727-729.     Bremen,  Nov.  3,  1897. 

48.  Manetti,  L.,  and  Musso,  Giovanni. 

Sulla  composizione  dei  caci  di  grana.  Le  Stazioni  Sperimentali  Agrarie 
Italiani,  vol.  5,  fasc.  3,  pp.  174-201.     Torino,  1876.     See  p.  187. 

49.  Ueber   die  Zusammensetzung   und    die   Reife   des   Parmesankiises.     Die 

Landwirtschaftlichen  Yersuchs-Stationen,  vol.  21,  pp.  211-229.     Berlin 
1878.     See  p.  215. 

50.  [Mabtin,  Ed.  W.,  and  Moore,  R.  W.] 

See  citation  14,  p.  45. 

51.  Mayeb,  Adolf. 

Analysen  von  hollandischen  Kiisesorten.  Milch  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  16,  No.  5, 
p.  87.     Bremen,  Feb.  2,  1S87. 

52.  Melikoff,  P.  G.,  and  Rosenblatt,  M. 

Le  brynsa,  fromage  russe  de  lait  de  brebis.  Journal  d'Agriculture 
Pratique,  ann.  71,  n.  s.,  vol.  14,  No.  52,  p.  814-815.     Paris,  Dec.  26,  1907. 

53.  Musso,  Giovanni,  and  Menozzi,  A. 

Sulla  composizione  degli  stracchini.  Le  Stazioni  Sperimentali  Agrarie 
Italiani,  1877,  vol.  6,  fasc.  4,  p.  201-206.     Torino,  1878. 

54.  [Muteb,  J.] 

See  citation  14,  p.  44,  50,  52. 

55.  Patbick,  G.  E. 

(1)  Changes  during  cheese  ripening.  Iowa  Agricultural  Experiment  Sta- 
tion, Bulletin  24,  p.  970.     Ames,  1894. 

(2)  Unpublished  data.  Analyses  made  in  U.  S.  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, 1901.     Samples  collected  hy  H.  E.  Alvord  in  Europe. 

56.  Paten,  A. 

Composition  de  plusieurs  substances  alimentaires.  Journal  de  Pharmacie, 
et  de  Chimie,  ser.  3,  vol.  16,  p.  279.     Paris,  1849. 

57.  Precis  theorique  et  pratique  des  substances  alimentaires.     4th  ed.,  1865. 

See  p.  190-213. 

58.  Peeeiba,  A.  Cardoso,  and  Mastbaum,  Hugo. 

Technisches  und  Analytisches  uber  die  Kaseindustrie  in  Portugal.  Chem- 
iker  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  2S,  No.  84,  p.  998-1000.     Cothen,  Oct.  19,  1904. 

59.  Richmond,  Henby  Droop. 

Dairy  chemistry;  a  practical  handbook  for  dairy  chemists  and  others 
having  control  of  dairies.    London,  1899.     See  p.  303. 


v  \nii.i  ii  s  <>i    « 

MX  [Bollst.] 

Itatioo  i  118. 

81    Ki  BR]   ;.    II 

lysedea  BOf.  Topfen*    Eeltschrlfl  fUr  Blologie,  rot  15,  p.  19 
ch< 
82,  B  I  im  prt 

Sulla    composislone   delta    rlcotta    pecorina.    Le    B1  iilonl    Bperlmentall 

i    : i i;i ii i.  v.. I.  18,  i'.'--.  i.  aprlle,  p.  484    138.     AstI,  May  6,  1880. 
AnaiiM  del  caclocavallo.     Nota  prellminare.     ibid.,  eol.  22,  I 
i».  887  84a     Astl,  April.  1882. 
84.       Die  chemie  dee  Schafk&ses.    Milch  Zeitung,  Jahrg.,  19,  No.  51,  p.  1001- 
1004.     Bremen,  Dec.  it,  188a 

8&    |  Smii  DON,   John    PBIXN  I  - 

Prise  essay  on  cheese  making,  etc     Newcastle-under-Lyme,  i stu.  j 
citation  38,  p.  32ft 
00.  BHT7TTLXWOBTH,  A.  K. 

The  composition  of  milk,  cheese,  and  whey  In  relation  to  one  another. 
Ontario  Agricultural  College,  Guelph,  Ontario,  Bulletin  90.  Toronto, 
Aug.  18,  1804. 
07.  Annual  report  of  the  professor  of  chemistry.  Ontario  Agricultural  Col- 
lege and  Experiment  Farm.  21st  Annual  Report,  1895.  Toronto,  1890. 
See  p.  25. 

OS.    SlEEER,    NADLNA. 

Ueber  die  angebliche  Umwandlung  de.s  Eiweisses  In  Fett  beim  Beifen 
des  Roqueibrt-K&ses.    Journal  fiir  Praktische  Chemie,  n.  f.,  voL  21,  p. 

203-221.    Leipzig,  1SS0. 
69.  Snydeb,  Harry. 

The  composition  of  dairy  products.     Minnesota  Agricultural  Experiment 
Station,  Bulletin  27,  p.  50-02.     St.  Anthony  Park,  Feb.,  1893.     See  p.  00. 
TO.    [  Sox  II  LET,  F. 

Erster  Bericht  iiber  Arbeiten  der  K.  K.  Landwirthschaftlich-Versuchs- 
stationen,  Wien,  vol.  29,  [for]  1870-78,  Wien,  1S7S.]  Ion  .7.),  p. 

322,  335. 
Tl.  Spica,  Matteo,  and  Blasi,  Luigi  de. 

Ricerche  chimiche  sui  formaggi  siciliani.    Le  Stazioni  Sperimentali  Agra- 
rie  Italiani,  vol.  23,  fuse.  2,  agosto,  p.  132-153.     Asii,  Sept.  25, 
See  p.  148. 
T2.  [Storch,  V. 

Forschungon  auf  dem  Oebiete  der  Viehhaltung,  1879,  p.  100-232.]     See 
citation  39,  p.  333. 

73.  Stutzer,  A. 

Die  chemische  Untersuchungen  der  K.'  chrlft   fiir  Analytische 

Chemie,  Jahrg.  35,  p. 

74.  Van  Slykf,  Lucius  Lincoln. 

Investigation   of  cheese.     New   York   Agricnltnral   Experiment  station, 
n.  s..  Bulletin  37.     Geneva,  Nov..  18 

75.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese  during  May.     Ibid.,  Bulletin 

43,  June.  1&2. 

76.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese  during  June.     Ibid.,  Bulletin 

45,  Aug.,  1892. 


74  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

77.  Experiments  in   the  manufacture  of  cheese.     Ibid.,  Bulletin  46,   Sept.; 

Bulletin  47,  Nov.,  1892. 

78.  Summary  of  results  of  experiments  made  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese 

during  the  season  of  1892.    Ibid.,  Bulletin  50,  Jan.,  1S93. 

79.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese.    Ibid.,  Bulletin  54,  May ;  Bul- 

letin 56,  May;  Bulletin  60,  Oct.;  Bulletin  61,  Nov.;  Bulletin  62,  Dec.,' 
1893 ;  Bulletin  65,  Jan.,  1894. 

80.  VlETK,   P. 

Mitteilungen  a  us  dem  Laboratorium  der  Aylesbury  Dairy  Company  in 
London.  Milch  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  16,  No.  7,  p.  120-121.  Bremen.  Feb. 
16,  1887. 

81.  Mitteilungen  aus  dem  Laboratorium  der  Aylesbury  Dairy  Company  in 

London.    Milch  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  21,  No.  12,  p.  191-192.    Bremen,  March 
19,  1892. 

82.  Bericht  iiber  die  Thatigkeit  des  milchwirtschaftlichen  Institute  in  Ha- 

meln  im  Jahre  1897.    Hannover,  1898.    See  p.  33. 

83.  VOELCKNER,  AUGUSTUS. 

On  the  composition  of  cheese  and  on  practical  mistakes  in  cheese  making. 
Journal  Royal  Agricultural  Society,  vol.  22.  p.  29-69.    London,  1861. 

84.  Cheese  experiments.    Ibid.,  vol.  23,  p.  170-191.    London,  1862. 

85.  On  a  peculiar  kind  of  Swedish  whey  cheese,  and  on  a  Norwegian  goats'- 

milk  cheese.     Ibid.,  ser.  2,  vol.  6,  p.  333-336.     London,  1870. 

86.  Amerikanischer  Kase  aus  magerer  Milch  mit  Zusatz  von  Schmalz  Oder 

Oleomargarin.     Milch  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  11,  No.  28,  p.  438-439.     Bremen, 
July  12,  1882. 

87.  Wallace,  Henry  C. 

Investigations  in  cheese  making.  Iowa  Agricultural  Experiment  Station, 
Bulletin  21,  p.  735-767.     Ames,  1893.     See  p.  756. 

88.  Weems,  J.  B. 

Unpublished  data.  Analyses  made  at  Iowa  Agricultural  College,  1896. 
Samples  furnished  by  J.  H.  Monrad. 

89.  Webenskiold,  Frederik  H. 

Aarsberetning  angaaende  de  offentlige  foranstaltninger  til  landbrugets 
fremme  i  aaret  1885.     Kristiania,  1886.     See  p.  78. 

90.  Ibid.,  [for]  1893.     Kristiania,  1894.     See  p.  87. 

91.  Wilson,  N.  E. 

Cheese  and  cheese  manufacture.  Nevada  Agricultural  Experiment  Sta- 
tion, Bulletin  18,  Reno,  Nov.,  1892. 

92.  Zega,  A. 

Kajmak.  Chemiker  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  21,  No.  6,  p.  41.  Cothen,  Jan.  20, 
1897. 

93.  Zega,  A.,  and  Bajic,  M. 

Katschkawalj.  Chemiker  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  19,  No.  85,  p.  1920.  Cothen, 
Oct.  23,  1895. 

94.  Zega,  A.,  and  Panics,  L. 

Serbischer  Kase.  Chemiker  Zeitung,  Jahrg.  22,  No.  18,  p.  158.  Cothen, 
March  2,  1898. 


INDEX  TO  DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES  OF  CHEESE. 


Ibertaou  Description,  7. 
Albumin,    fl 

Aiointojo:  Description. 7;  analy 
ajgan.    ^<c  Lirnburg. 

Alalia  Bmmental.   >'-<  Emmental. 
Aipin:  Description,  r. 

Aitenburg:  Description,  7. 
Ait  Kubklse.  Sec  Hand. 
AttsdhL    See  Brio 

Ambert:  Description.  7. 

Ancien  Imperial:  Description)  7. 

Aneona.    8(  <   I  '    orino. 

Appenzell:  Description.  7. 

Arnauten.    See  Travnik. 

Anvergne  (or  Anvergne  Bleu).    See  CanttL 

Backstdn    (see    also    Lirnburg):    Description.    S: 
analysis.  62, 

Banbury:  Description,  8. 

Barberey:  Description,  8. 

Battleraat:  Description,  8;  analysis.  62. 

Bauden:  Description,  8. 

i  Cooked:  Description.  S. 

Bellelay:  Description.  8:  analysis,  02. 

Bellunese.    See  Emmental. 

Bergquara:  Description,  9. 

Bergues.    See  Leyden. 

Berliner  Kuhkilse.    See  Hand. 

Bleu   (see  also  Gex;  Sassenage;  Septmoncel):  De- 
scription. 9. 

Blue  Dorset.    See  Dorset . 

Bondon  (sec  also  Neufchatel):  Analysis,  62. 

Boudanne:  Description,  9. 

Boulette.    See  Maroilles. 

Box  (firm):  Description,  9. 

Box  (soft):  Description,  10. 

Bra:  Description,  10. 

Brand:  Description,  10. 

Brick:  Description,  10;  analysis,  G2. 

Brickbat:  Description,  11. 

Brie:  Description,  11;  analysis,  02. 

Brinsen:  Description,  12;  analy 

Briol.    See  Lirnburg. 

Brizecon.    Sec  Reblochon. 

Broccio  (sec  also  Ziger):  Description.  12. 

Brocotte.    Sec  Ziger. 

Burgundy:  Description.  12:  analysis 

Buttermilk:  Description 

Cacio.    See  Parmesan. 

Cacio  Pecorino  Romano.    Set  Peeorino. 

Cacio  Romano.    See  Chivari. 

Caciocavello:  Description.  12;  analysis 

Caerphilly:  Description,  13;  analysis.  62. 

Cambridge:  Description,  13;  analysj 

Camembert:  Description.  13;  analysi 

Cancoillotte.    Sec  Fromage  Fort. 


Canqullloto    (see    al.so     Vronv.w    Furl  .:     DttKTip- 

tion  14. 
Cantal:  Description,  1 1;  u 

Carintliian.    6'm  I.imlmrg. 
Carre*  Allinc.    Set  Ancit'ii  imperial 
CastellO  Branco.    See  Serra  da  Estrella. 
Ceracee.    See  Ziger. 
Champolgon:  Description,  14. 
Chaource:  Description,  14. 
Chascholde  Chascho>i>:  Dff  rlpilim.  15. 
Cheddar:  Description!.".;  analy  : 
Cheshire:  Description,  lti;  analysis,  64. 
Cheshire-Stilton:  Description.  17. 
ChevTet.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Chevrotin.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Chivari:  Description,  17. 
Clgrimbert.    See  Alpin. 
Club.    See  Potted. 
Colmar.    Sec  Munster. 
Commission:  Description,  17. 
Compiegne.    See  Camembert. 
Contentin.    See  Camembert. 
Cooked:  Description,  17. 
Cotherstone:  Description.  17;  analysi  - 
Cotrone.    See  Pecorino. 
Cottage:  Description.  17. 
Coulommiers:  Description.  18;  analysis,  64. 
Cream:  Description,  18;  analysj 
Cream,  French  Demi-eel:  Analysis,  04. 
Crescenza:  Analysis,  64. 
Creuse:  Description,  18. 
Cristalinna:  Description,  18. 
Daisies.    Sec  Cheddar. 
Damen:  Description.  18. 
Danish  Export:  Description.  19;  anal] 
Dauphin.    See  Maroilles. 
Delft.   8ee  Leyden. 
Demi-scl.    Sec  Cream. 
Derbyshire:  Description.  19;  analysis, 
Devonshire  Cream:  Description.  19. 
Domestic  Emmental. 

Dorset:  Description.  19;  analy -i 
Dotter:  Description,  20. 
Dresdener  Bia  t     I  land. 

Dry:  Description.  20. 
Duel:  Description.  20. 
_Dunlop:  Description, 20;  analysis,  64. 

Edam:  Description.  20;  ai 
Elbing:  Description,  21. 
Emmental:  Description,  21;  a- 
Bmmersdorf.    Ste  Lirnburg. 
Engadinc:  Description,  23;  analyai 
English  I  ription,  23. 

Epoisse:  Description  - 

75 


76 


INDEX. 


Ervy  (see  also  Troyes):  Description,  23. 
Farm:  Description,  23. 
Ferme.    See  Farm. 
Filled:  Description.  23. 
Flats.    See  Cheddar. 
Flower:  Description,  24. 
Fondue.    See  Fromage  Fort. 
Fontine  d'Aosta.    See  Emmental. 
Formagelle:  Description,  24. 
Formaggie  di  Capra.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Formaggini:  Description,  24. 
Formaggini  di  Lecco:  Analysis,  64. 
Formaggio  Dolce.    See  Emmental. 
Formaggio  Duro.    See  Nostrale. 
Formaggio  Grana  Lodigiano.    See  Parmesan. 
Formaggio  Tenero.    See  Nostrale. 
Fourme.    See  Cantal. 
Fouxme  d'Ambert.    See  Ambert. 
Freisa.    See  Cooked. 
Fresco.    See  Stracchino. 
Fromagere.    See  Canquillote;  Fromage  Fort. 
Fromage  a  la  Creme.    See  Cream. 
Fromage  a  la  Pie.    See  Farm. 
Fromage  Blanc.    See  White. 
Fromage  Bleu.    See  Bleu. 
Fromage  Double  Creme.    See  Cream. 
Fromage  de  Boite.    See  Box  (soft). 
Fromage  de  Bourgogne.    See  Burgundy. 
Fromage  de  Foin.    See  Hay. 
Fromage  de  Troyes.    See  Barberey. 
Fromage  Fort:  Description,  24. 
Fromage  Mou.    See  Maquee. 
Fromage  Persille.    See  Gex;  Bleu. 
Gaiskasli.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Gammelost:  Description,  24;  analysis,  64. 
Gautrais:  Description,  24. 
Gavot:  Description,  24. 
Geheimrath:  Description,  25. 
Gerome  (see  also  Minister):  Description,  25. 
Gervais  (see  also  Cream):  Description,  25;  analy- 
sis, 64. 
Gex:  Description,  25;  analysis,  65. 
Gislev:  Description,  26;  analysis,  G5. 
Glamerkase.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Gloire  des  Montagnes.    See  Damen. 
Glumse:  Description,  26. 
Gloucester  (see  also  Derbyshire):  Analysis,  65. 
Goat's  Milk:  Description,  26;  analysis,  65. 
Gorgonzola:  Description,  26;  analysis,  65. 
Gouda:  Description,  27;  analysis,  65. 
Gournay:  Description,  27. 
Goya:  Description,  27. 
Grana.    See  Parmesan. 
Granular  Curd:  Description,  28. 
Gratairon.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Gray:  Description,  28. 
Grottenhof.    See  Limbing. 
Gruau  de  Montague.    See  Ziger. 
Grunerkase.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Gruyere:  Description,  28;  analysis,  65. 
Guiole.    See  Laguioie. 
Giissing:  Description,  28. 
Hand:  Description,  28. 
Hartkase.    See  Saanen. 
Harz:  Description,  29;  analysis,  65. 
Hay:  Description,  29. 


Hervd  (see  also  Limburg):  Analysis,  65. 

Hobbe.    See  Leyden. 

Hohenburg.    See  Box  (firm). 

Hohenheim:  Description,  29. 

Holstein  Dairy  Cheese.    See  Leather. 

Holstein  Health:  Description,  29. 

Holstein  Skim-milk:  Description,  30. 

Holsteiner  Gesundheits  Kase:  See  Holstein  Health. 

Holsteiner  Magerkase.    See  Holstein  Skim-milk. 

Hop:  Description,  30. 

Hopfen.    See  Hop. 

Hudelziger.    See  Ziger. 

Hvid  Gjedeost:  Description,  30. 

Iglesias.    See  Pecorino. 

Lhlefeld.    See  Hand. 

Ilha:  Description,  30;  analysis,  65. 

Incanestrato:  Description,  30;  analysis,  65. 

Isigny:  Description,  30. 

Jack:  Description,  31. 

Jochberg:  Description,  31. 

Josephine:  Description,  31. 

Jura.    See  Septmoncel. 

Kajmak:  Description,  31;  analysis,  65. 

Kascaval:  Description,  31;  analysis,  65. 

Katschkawalj:  Description,  31;  analysis,  65. 

Katzenkopf.    See  Edam. 

Kirgischkase.    See  Krutt. 

Kjarsgaard:  Description,  31. 

Kloster:  Description,  32. 

Klencz.    See  Brinsen. 

Knaost.    See  Pultost. 

Koejekaars.    See  Leyden. 

Kolos-Monostor:  Description,  32. 

Komynde.    See  Leyden. 

Koppen:  Description,  32. 

Kosher:  Description,  32. 

Kosher  Gouda:  Description,  32. 

Krauterkiise.    See  Sap  Sago. 

Krutt:  Description,  32;  analysis,  65. 

Kuhbach:  Description,  32. 

Laguioie:  Description,  32;  analysis,  66. 

Lamothe.    See  Goat's  Milk. 

Lanark.    See  Limburg. 

Lancashire:  Description,  33. 

Landoch.    See  Brinsen. 

Langres:  Description,  33. 

Lapland:  Description,  33. 

LaiTon.    See  Maroilles. 

Latticini:  Description,  33. 

Leather:  Description,  33. 

Leder.    See  Leather. 

Leicester  (see  also  Derbyshire):  Description,   34; 

analysis,  66. 
Leonessa.    See  Pecorino. 
Leyden:  Description,  34;  analysis,  66. 
Lindenhof.    See  Limburg.  ' 
Limbing:  Description,  34;  analysis,  66. 
Liptau  (see  also  Brinsen):  Description,  35. 
Livarot:  Description,  35;  analysis,  66. 
Livlander.    See  Hand. 
Long  Horns.    See  Cheddar. 
Lorraine:  Description,  35. 
Liineberg:  Description,  35. 
Maconnais:  Description,  36. 
Macqueline:  Description,  36. 
Maigre.    See  Farm. 
Majocchina.    See  Incanestrato. 


77 


Malt  .       '  •     rtptl  a,  Hi 

y 

.66. 
MascorjH.M:. 

Description,  37. 
ription,  37. 

.ino. 

iirm). 

lay. 
Montasi  m,  37. 

Montavuner:  Descriptioi 
Mont  Cenis:  Descriptioi 

D  ilysis,  6ft. 
Monterey.    So  lack. 
Monthh'ry:  Description,  39. 
Morin:  See  Limba 
Man.    Sr<  Farm. 

iption,  39. 
Miinste; :  -is,  66. 

. 

Neufch&tel:  Description,  40;  analysis,  66. 
NeasohL    8et  Brinsen. 

ption,  40. 
ing. 
Niehetm:  Description,  40. 
3,  66. 
ription,  41. 
Oka.    SeeTroppist. 
Olimento.    See  Cream. 
Olive  Cream.    See  Cream. 
Olivet:  Description,  41;  analysis,  66. 
Olmiitzer  Bierkiise.    See  Hand. 
Olmutzer    Quargel    (Olmiitz):     Description,    41; 
analysis,  66. 

:  Description.  41. 

Description,  42. 
Paneddas.    Sec  Cooked. 
Parmesan:  Description,  42;  analysis,  66. 

:?leu.    See  Bleu. 
Pavilion.    See  Camembert. 
Pecorino:  Description,  42;  analysis,  66. 
Pecorino  Dolce.    See  Pecorino. 
Pecorino  Tuscano.    See  Pecorino. 
Petit  Carre.    See  Ancien  Imperial;  Neulchatel. 
Petit  Suisse  (see  also  Xeufchatel):  Analysis,  66. 
Pimento.    See  Xeufchatel. 
Pepper  Cream.    Sec  XeufchiUel. 
Pfister:  Description,  43. 
Philadelphia  Cream:  Description,  43. 
Pimp.    See  Mainz  Hand. 
Pineapple:  Description,  43;  analysis,  66. 
Poitiers.    See  Goats  Milk. 
Pont  l'Eveque:  Description,  44;  analysis,  66. 
Port  d,.  -iption,  44;  analysis,  66. 

Potato:  Descriptor 

.:  Description,  4.5;  analysis,  67. 
Prattigau:  Description,  45. 

:  Descripti< 
Prime         See  II 
Providence:  Description,  45. 


irole. 

I'ulP.   i:    I  I 

Quadra 

Quartirol  i.  ao. 

■  de  Clncho:  l><-  i  ription, 
Qneso  di  ription,  4»i. 

l '.  cription,  4ft. 

'     ..-ho. 

Qaeso  de  ii 

Qneeo  de  Pnno:  Deecriptl 
Qneyi        I  napoleon. 

Rabacal:  Description,  47; 
Raden:  Description,  47. 

:.tion,  47. 

Raper.    .k 

: rale. 
Rayon:  Description,  47. 

Rebl.iola:  Description,  47;  analysis,  07. 

Reblocbon:  Description,  47;  analysis,  67. 

Recuit. 

Reg^ian.    ,bV<   Par". 

;  .     fi 

Reibkfise.    See  Saanen. 

Reindeer  Milk:  Description,  48;  analysis,  67. 

Remoudou.  lour. 

Rheinwald.    8et  Schamser. 

Ricotta  (see  a  .  ualysis,  67. 

Riescngebirge:  Description,  48. 

Rinnen:  Descriptio 

Robiola.    See  Rebbiola. 

Roll:  Description,  48. 

Rollot:  Description,  48. 

Romadour:  Description,  48;  analysis,  67. 

Romano.    See  Pecorino. 

Romatur.    See  Romadour. 

Roquefort:  Description,  4S;  analysis,  67. 

Saaland  Pfarr.    See  Pre  tost. 

Saanen:  Description,  49. 

Sage:  Description,  50. 

Saint  Benoit:  Description,  50. 

Saint  Claude:  Description,  50. 

Saint  Marcellin:  Description,  50. 

Saint  Michels.    Sec  Limburg. 

Saint  Remy:  Description 

Saloio:  Description,  50:  analysis,  67. 

Sandwich  Nut.    See  Cream. 

Sap  Sago:  Description,  50;  analysis,  67. 

Sassenage  (see  also  Gex):  Description,  51. 

Satz.    See  Hand. 

Savoy:  Analy 

Scanno:  Descriptii. 

Scarmorzc:  Description.  51. 

Schabzieger:  S 

Schachtelkiise.    Sec  Box 

Schamsor:  Des 

Schlcsischcr  Banermflchkase.    See  Bflesian. 

Schli  ..in. 

Schloss:  Descriptic: 

Scbottengsied:  Description,  52. 

Schiitzcn.    See  Lin: 

Schwarzcnber;;:  Descriptii 

Schweitz.T.    fi 

Senectcnv:  Descriptioi 

Septmoncel  (see  also  Qex):  Description,  52;  anal- 

/::^er. 


78 


INDEX. 


Serra  da  Estrella:  Description,  52;  analysis,  67. 

Servian:  Description,  53;  analysis,  67. 

Siebenbiirgen.    See  Brinsen. 

Silesian:  Description,  53. 

Siraz:  Description,  53. 

Slipcote:  Description,  53. 

Smear-case.    See  Cottage. 

Sorte  Maggenga.    See  Parmesan. 

Sorte  Vermenga.    See  Parmesan. 

Soumaintrain.    See  Camembert. 

Spalen:  Description,  53;  analysis,  67. 

Sperrkase.    See  Dry. 

Spitz:  Description,  54. 

Squares.    See  Cheddar. 

Steppes:  Description,  54. 

Stilton:  Description,  54;  analysis,  67. 

Stirred  Curd.    See  Cheddar. 

Stracchino:  Description,  55. 

Stracchino  di  Gorgonzola.    See  Gorgonzola. 

Strassburg.    See  Minister. 

Stringer.    See  Spalen. 

Styria:  Description,  55. 

Sweet  Curd  (see  also  Cheddar):  Description,  55. 

Swiss:  Description,  55;  analysis,  67. 

Tafi:  Description,  55. 

Tami6:  Description,  55. 

Tanzenberg.    See  Limburg. 

Tempete.    See  Canquillote. 

Tessel:  Analysis,  67. 

Tete  de  Maure.    See  Edam. 

Tete  de  Moine.    See  Bellelay. 

Texel:  Description,  56. 

Thenay:  Description,  56;  analysis,  68. 

Thraanen.    See  Emmental. 

Thuringia.    See  Hand. 

Thury-en-Valois.    See  Camembert. 

Tignard:  Description,  56. 

Tilsit:  Description,  56. 


Tome  de  Beaumont.    See  Tamie\ 

Tome  de  Montagne.    See  Vacherin. 

Topfen  (see  also  Cooked):  Analysis,  68. 

Toppen:  Description,  56. 

Trappist:  Description,  56,  analysis,  68. 

Travnik:  Description,  57. 

Trouville:  Description,  57. 

Troyes:  Description,  57;  analysis,  68. 

Trockenkase.    See  Dry. 

Tuile  de  Flandre.    See  Maroilles. 

Tuna:  Description,  57. 

Tworog:  Description,  58. 

Uri:  Description,  58. 

Vacherin:  Description,  58;  analysis,  68. 

Vendome:  Description,  58;  analysis,  68. 

Villiers:  Description,  58. 

Viterbo  (see  also  Pecorino):  Analysis,  68. 

Vlasic.    See  Travnik. 

Void:  Description,  58. 

Vorarlberg  Sour-milk:  Description,  59;  analysij,  68. 

Walliskase.    See  Saanen. 

Warwickshire  (see  also  Derbyshire):  Analysis,  68. 

Washed  Curd.    See  Cheddar. 

Weihenstephan.    See  Box  (firm). 

Weisslak:  Description,  59. 

Wensleydale:  Description,  59,  analysis,  68. 

West  Friesian:  Description,  59. 

Westphalia  Sour-milk:  Description,  59. 

Werderkase.    See  Elbing. 

White:  Description,  60. 

Wiltshire  (see  also  Derbyshire):  Analysis,  68. 

Withania:  Description,  60. 

Yorkshire-Stilton.    See  Cotherstone. 

Young  Americas.    See  Cheddar. 

Ziegel:  Description,  60. 

Ziegenkase.    See  Goat's  Milk. 

Ziger:  Description,  60;  analysis,  68. 

Zips.    See  Brinsen. 


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